Author Topic: Sleeving a block + and -  (Read 4724 times)

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turbohunter

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #15 on: January 05, 2019, 10:16:10 AM »
Thanks guys.
Keith I’m glad you jumped in. This block was sonic’d, magged and pressure checked. The water jackets were the cleanest I’d ever seen.
It was the basis for my mustang and finally after getting it together we had it on the dyno and had warmed it up and broken it in. It sounded great. On the second low rpm pull the dyno operator noticed something different. The plan was to do a couple short pulls and adjust the valves. So valve covers came off and there was water in the oil.
I was ready to go ballistic on the shop that did the check, but after talking to a a few guys that should know, they said this happens every once in a while with 50 year old stuff. I understand that.
So to finish the story, I had recently bought a beautiful cross bolted block from forum member Mike 7570, who was going to use it for a 428 race car. He got the block from Sol Stewart. Even though it’s been magged and sonic’d I’m having it redone (cause I’m freaking). The engine will be 428 ci.
I’ve got to buy a new set of pistons but the guys are helping me out with keeping the prices down on machine work and such as I’ve been bent over enough already.
To wrap it up, “stuff” happens.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


67428GT500

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #16 on: January 05, 2019, 12:07:45 PM »
I had the engine ran in on the dyno as well. Reasons two fold. 1. If it had an issue I didn't want to take it back out of a car with a 16,000 paint job. Secondly, I am running a flat tappet with double springs. So it was ran in without the inner spring and then ran in with both.
I thought I had an intake issue and after I bought a bore scope I found the leak. I was furious being I had been so careful and didn't cut any corners.

cammerfe

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #17 on: January 05, 2019, 10:30:52 PM »
Just FWIW, Carl Holbrook was known to bore the cylinders completely out of FE blocks and then put in steel sleeves. He had the sleeves furnace-brazed in place and then went through the whole block and re-machined everything. He had a bunch of tricks up his sleeve. ;)

KS

fekbmax

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #18 on: January 05, 2019, 10:40:45 PM »
Just FWIW, Carl Holbrook was known to bore the cylinders completely out of FE blocks and then put in steel sleeves. He had the sleeves furnace-brazed in place and then went through the whole block and re-machined everything. He had a bunch of tricks up his sleeve. ;)

KS

He was s master at fixing iron heads as well.
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

WConley

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #19 on: January 08, 2019, 12:12:28 AM »
Just FWIW, Carl Holbrook was known to bore the cylinders completely out of FE blocks and then put in steel sleeves. He had the sleeves furnace-brazed in place and then went through the whole block and re-machined everything. He had a bunch of tricks up his sleeve. ;)

KS

I remember Carl mentioning once that he did that to brand new Cobra Jet blocks  :o :o 
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

mike7570

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #20 on: January 08, 2019, 12:25:36 AM »
Thanks guys.
Keith I’m glad you jumped in. This block was sonic’d, magged and pressure checked. The water jackets were the cleanest I’d ever seen.
It was the basis for my mustang and finally after getting it together we had it on the dyno and had warmed it up and broken it in. It sounded great. On the second low rpm pull the dyno operator noticed something different. The plan was to do a couple short pulls and adjust the valves. So valve covers came off and there was water in the oil.
I was ready to go ballistic on the shop that did the check, but after talking to a a few guys that should know, they said this happens every once in a while with 50 year old stuff. I understand that.
So to finish the story, I had recently bought a beautiful cross bolted block from forum member Mike 7570, who was going to use it for a 428 race car. He got the block from Sol Stewart. Even though it’s been magged and sonic’d I’m having it redone (cause I’m freaking). The engine will be 428 ci.
I’ve got to buy a new set of pistons but the guys are helping me out with keeping the prices down on machine work and such as I’ve been bent over enough already.
To wrap it up, “stuff” happens.

Cross my fingers everything works out great with the cross bolted block. I never had a chance to use it.
Mike

turbohunter

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #21 on: January 08, 2019, 11:44:48 AM »
I’m sure it’ll be fine Mike.
The engine gods can’t be that callous. Can they?
I’ve started trying to find Sol on the other forum through Anthony but nothing yet.
Anyone know if he’s still around?
I’d like to get some info on the block. It’s not familiar to me.
Thought you guys might like to see it. It’s 4.129 as of now. I’m having it honed as little as possible which should be easy  ::)  as the cylinders are pristine. The date code 3G/C17? No other numbers.
Mike had it sonic checked and there was only one under .120ish place on the whole deal and that was non thrust and low. As I said I’m having everything re done.
And just to keep things straight this is not the block that needs a sleeve. This is the replacement block.



« Last Edit: January 08, 2019, 12:01:27 PM by turbohunter »
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


BruceS

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #22 on: January 08, 2019, 02:12:16 PM »
Marc, 3C17 is March 17, 1963.  3G is July. 
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

turbohunter

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #23 on: January 08, 2019, 02:21:59 PM »
Yup, thanks, that I knew Bruce. The reason I included the date is because I’m not familiar with the different ways the blocks were cast back then. This block is a 390 but it has the extra webbing and cross bolt bosses and the bores are plenty thick. I’ve started researching but thought one or two of us may have some knowledge of these blocks.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Heo

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #24 on: January 08, 2019, 02:49:07 PM »
My 64 PI engine have a block like that. Its not machined for
crossbolts but the casting and extra webbing is there
I dont remember the casting date but i think the car was
made in september so a couple of months before that i supose
Casting NR is C4AE-A, it have a P stamped on the  machined surface
for the timing chain cover, bottom  right corner. Not drilled for hyd, lifters
Mine at 4.11 if i go 4.13 one spot in one cyl would go Under 0.100
i think it was nr 4 to the rear one inch below deck
I saw one at the shop of the guy that ported my heads also from a 64

I belive Doug have the same block in his truck



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

mike7570

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Re: Sleeving a block + and -
« Reply #25 on: January 08, 2019, 08:50:24 PM »
Marc,

Sol Stewart on old forum - login Sol427 signed name Dusty Rhodes