Brake line routing coming off MC. Single to dual pot

[EricDS]

I’m converting the jelly jar master cylinder over to a dual resovior on my 64 Monterey.  Staying with manual drums so there is no booster.  The new MC has the brake line ports facing the outside of the car.  I got the MC bolted up last night to plan out the brake line routing and it looks like it might be a cleaner looking install if the MC ports faced the motor.  I can make it work with what I have but I feel like it might look nicer with the ports facing inboard.

For the people with 64 Galaxies / full size Mercs, what port direction did you go with?  Can anyone post a photo of their brake line routing coming off the master?

Thanks!

[blu64galaxie]

Here's a few shots of what I did on my '64 Galaxie. Nothing too showy or eye-catching --pretty basic, lol. 

WP_20170604_22_00_32_Pro by 1964 Galaxie 500, on Flickr

WP_20170604_22_00_18_Pro by 1964 Galaxie 500, on Flickr

WP_20170605_12_45_54_Pro by 1964 Galaxie 500, on Flickr

[GJCAT427]

Blue64, Question, are you running discs? If not that's a lot of plumbing for drums.

[blu64galaxie]

Yes  ...went with the Wilwood kit.

WP_20170513_17_10_48_Pro by 1964 Galaxie 500, on Flickr

Blue64, Question, are you running discs? If not that's a lot of plumbing for drums.

[WerbyFord]

Both ours are the same, lines exit out to the fender. Here are some pics of the blingy one.

1. For an extra clean look here is a pic of the hydraulic brake line routing on our Model A.
SURPRISE! There aren't any! It still stops pretty good, even from its top speed of 58mph.

2. Our 64 XL with lines off toward the left fender. You can see the FoMoCo proportioning valve and warning light/wire on the inner fender.
3. Nothing headed toward the engine, cluttered enough already with power brakes and A/C.
4. My dad liked the A/C for that hot Seattle weather (?!?) but it adds clutter, as would brake lines headed toward the engine.
5. I tried to build a cheap clone of the valve cover tag.
6. Here is the original olman moody tag with engine specs & valve lash! A rare & fun combo, 427/400hp marine as close as I could research it. Of course those would be marine AFB's on top but these are just AFBs. Holleys run better but the AFBs have been trouble free for 5 years, even on West Coast Watergas.

[Heo]

Werby, Do you have disc or drums at the front? what bore dia master did you use?
im about to convert to a dual master but will stay with front drums.
I got the big Police brakes and with the right shoes they are more than enough

I use those solid brakelines  on my Model-A . I found a German  Model-B  wood gas head
from WWII, 8.5-1 CR, that realy made the engine wake up. Could you Gonk that ?

[WerbyFord]

Werby, Do you have disc or drums at the front? what bore dia master did you use?
im about to convert to a dual master but will stay with front drums.
I got the big Police brakes and with the right shoes they are more than enough

I use those solid brakelines  on my Model-A . I found a German  Model-B  wood gas head
from WWII, 8.5-1 CR, that realy made the engine wake up. Could you Gonk that ?

Car is factory power drums all around. Never had a problem with brake fade even in the moutains out west here.
The wagon has the big 3" front shoes but this hardtop does not.
IIRC it was a 67 Gal drum/drum master cylinder. My dad did this one & always adds the prop valve.
Ive converted other cars & if you can find a dual cylinder with the same front&rear diameter plunger you don't need a prop valve as it's really no different than using a single master.

I actually have maybe 10-20 Model A dyno tests in the Gonk database!
So yes in theory.
But what I find on the Flatheads is, it depends a whole bunch on HOW you get the higher compression.
Kinda gives valve shrouding a whole new meaning since as you raise compression, you're "shrouding" what is now a loooooong path from the valves to the chamber. So I've seen dyno tests where compression is way up but power gain is minimal. Just depends.
It sounds like you got a good head design.

Our "A" engine is stone stock original. We had the head off to get it started back in 1965 (it hadn't been run since 1955) but nothing since then. Rod caps/mains have never even been apart. Our "A" had its 90th birthday last week! I wonder if today's iron will hold up like that & still run when its 90 yrs old. I wonder if *I* will for that matter!

Gonkulator 200cid Model A
I am guessing the .050 durations at 170-170 bur really have no idea. I should degree our spare engine & find out!

Factory Spec
Torq 128 at 1100
Powr 40 at 2300 a real revver

Gonkulator at stock 4.22 CR
Torq 127 at 2000
Powr 40 at 2700

Gonkulator at 8.50 CR assuming same breathing
Torq 162 at 2000
Powr 59 at 2900

A huge difference IF breathing stays the same, but it would be a huge kick in the "mid-range" (1000-2000rpm) anyway.

[Heo]

I had severe fading problems with just white box shoes
so i bought a 70 LTD and scraped to get the discs
but found some premium "Nascar approved" shoes the
hotter they get the harder they brake

This Model-A was a running but ruff looking car in the
late 60s when it was restored. They just did a valve job
on the engine.

Found the head in a scrap heap when i was 13-14 years old when i was plowing a potato field,
for this older man that had it in a boat. But it knocked on  kerosene so he put on a regular B head
Cast by Eisenwerk Böhler in Germany. So i put it on about five years ago, its amazing how smooth
idling the engine become and responsive to the throttle. I later put on a B-Carb and a Morris minor
distributor that i had a NOS one. So now i can kind of keep up with the traffic if i have to. Me and
the wife use to take it on a longer trip each summer but it needs
higher gears.So i got this Volvo Overdrive i plan to install and twin 11/2 SU carbs