Author Topic: Blue Thunder blower intake  (Read 5601 times)

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AlanCasida

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #15 on: September 18, 2018, 12:17:19 PM »
Those intakes are from Procomp.   Take it for what its worth.
Exactly.

HvyFt4spd

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #16 on: September 19, 2018, 01:30:11 PM »
 Dyers also came out with an FE blower intake a few years ago. They originally made a converted Offy 360 like BDS but this was a one piece casting to replace it. To me it looked like a Tunnelwedge cast with a blower flange on top but others suggested it might of started out as a Port O Sonic.

 Definitely not the same as the Holman Moody intake Blue Thunder copied but a nice looking piece with distributor clearance bulit in.

falcongeorge

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #17 on: September 19, 2018, 03:48:25 PM »
Sounds like a good piece, but distributor clearance is neither necessary, nor desirable, I want the blower low and forward, I want to set the engine back without notching into the cowl vent area, it’s going be street driven, and no wipers will get you pulled over in a heartbeat around here. And they will send you for a safety inspection, that’s game over.
EDIT: see reply #10
« Last Edit: September 19, 2018, 05:04:12 PM by falcongeorge »

HvyFt4spd

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #18 on: September 20, 2018, 04:01:45 PM »
Hey George,

 Ahh, I did miss that part and had intended to ask. Are you running straight off the cam through the belt or running some sort of offset cover drive? I ask mostly as I rounded up all that stuff for mine and then ended up selling it to fund the Hiriser. Lol WTF was I thinking! The current owner contacted me recently about parting with it himself and may still have it. By the way should this be "FalconGeorge" of the Hamb this is "Algon"...

 , Dan

falcongeorge

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #19 on: September 20, 2018, 06:28:26 PM »
Hey George,

 Ahh, I did miss that part and had intended to ask. Are you running straight off the cam through the belt or running some sort of offset cover drive? I ask mostly as I rounded up all that stuff for mine and then ended up selling it to fund the Hiriser. Lol WTF was I thinking! The current owner contacted me recently about parting with it himself and may still have it. By the way should this be "FalconGeorge" of the Hamb this is "Algon"...

 , Dan

Hahaha, Hey Algon! Long time, no chat! This thing sat for a LOOOONG time, I have been working on a hilborn injected 331 Chevy t bucket. I was going to do mech. FI on the FE too, but doing it on the T has damn near put me in the poorhouse, so I am doing carbs on the FE. I haven’t made the drive yet I want to wait until I have a manifold, snout, and pulleys on the motor before I make the distributor drive, but I have a couple ways I can see to do it.
First thing is to get a timing cover that’s designed to accept a typical 4 bolt mech fuel pump, I got a Glenwood Marine cover. I am going to use an Allen head bolt in the end of the cam, it will accept the hex on the end of a typical driveshaft for a hilborn or enderle pump. I have a shaft about 6” long, that I got off eBay. I am using an accel tach drive dual point, and my hilborn pump driveshaft is 5/8” mean diameter. Once I get everything mocked up, I will figure out how long a drive I need to get the distributor top out in front of the belt, then I will cut my pump driveshaft to length in a lathe, then drill into the end with a 7/16 bit, so I can slide the end of the distributor shaft into the end of the fuel pump driveshaft. It has to go in deep enough so that the end of the pump drive is up past the original hole for the distributor gear roll-pin. I will probably shorten the end of the distributor shaft so I don’t have to drill so deep into the fuel pump driveshaft. Then you drill a hole the right size to accept the roll pin through the fuel pump driveshaft at a right angle, and drive the roll pin in place.
Then you cut two aluminum collars on the lathe, one for the timing cover end, that gets a big hole in the center for the distributor, and four small holes to match the pattern on the timing cover, another for the other end with a big hole in the center that accepts the seal on the distributor, weld them onto a length of aluminum tube that’s the right length, drill and tap a hole in the collar on the distributor end for the distributor clamp, and you are done.
Another way to make the drive itself would be to just use an old FE pump drive, cut it off, and drill a piece of 1/2” hex stock to accept the cut off end of the oil pump drive, and tig the tow pieces together. You follow? So the big end of the hex fits the in the hex in the end of the Allen head bolt holding the timing gear on, and the End of the oil pump driveshaft you have tigged into the other end of the hex stock fits into the end of the distributor shaft. I have the 6” hilborn fuel pump driveshaft on hand anyway, so that’s what I will probably use.
Another piece that I have kicking around is a short hilborn spud drive off the end of a chevy roller that was in a sprint car motor. I could also drill into the end of that piece so I could stick it on the end of an FE oil pump driveshaft, and do it that way.
Just thought, I probably should have sent this as a pm, the HAMB taught me that when it comes to posting stuff like this on an open forum, discretion is the better part of valour... ;)
« Last Edit: September 20, 2018, 06:40:21 PM by falcongeorge »

falcongeorge

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #20 on: September 20, 2018, 06:49:02 PM »
Hey George,

 Ahh, I did miss that part and had intended to ask. Are you running straight off the cam through the belt or running some sort of offset cover drive? I ask mostly as I rounded up all that stuff for mine and then ended up selling it to fund the Hiriser. Lol WTF was I thinking! The current owner contacted me recently about parting with it himself and may still have it. By the way should this be "FalconGeorge" of the Hamb this is "Algon"...
Q
 , Dan

Hahaha, Hey Algon! Long time, no chat! This thing sat for a LOOOONG time, I have been working on a hilborn injected 331 Chevy t bucket. I was going to do mech. FI on the FE too, but doing it on the T has damn near put me in the poorhouse, so I am doing carbs on the FE. I haven’t made the drive yet I want to wait until I have a manifold, snout, and pulleys on the motor before I make the distributor drive, but I have a couple ways I can see to do it.
First thing is to get a timing cover that’s designed to accept a typical 4 bolt mech fuel pump, I got a Glenwood Marine cover. I am going to use an Allen head bolt in the end of the cam, it will accept the hex on the end of a typical driveshaft for a hilborn or enderle pump. I have a shaft about 6” long, that I got off eBay. I am using an accel tach drive dual point, and my hilborn pump driveshaft is 5/8” mean diameter. Once I get everything mocked up, I will figure out how long a drive I need to get the distributor top out in front of the belt, then I will cut my pump driveshaft to length in a lathe, then drill into the end with a 7/16 bit, so I can slide the end of the distributor shaft into the end of the fuel pump driveshaft. It has to go in deep enough so that the end of the pump drive is up past the original hole for the distributor gear roll-pin. I will probably shorten the end of the distributor shaft so I don’t have to drill so deep into the fuel pump driveshaft. Then you drill a hole the right size to accept the roll pin through the fuel pump driveshaft at a right angle, and drive the roll pin in place.
Then you cut two aluminum collars on the lathe, one for the timing cover end, that gets a big hole in the center for the distributor, and four small holes to match the pattern on the timing cover, another for the other end with a big hole in the center that accepts the seal on the distributor, weld them onto a length of aluminum tube that’s the right length, drill and tap a hole in the collar on the distributor end for the distributor clamp, and you are done.
Another way to make the drive itself would be to just use an old FE pump drive, cut it off, and drill a piece of 1/2” hex stock to accept the cut off end of the oil pump drive, and tig the tow pieces together. You follow? So the big end of the hex fits the in the hex in the end of the Allen head bolt holding the timing gear on, and the End of the oil pump driveshaft you have tigged into the other end of the hex stock fits into the end of the distributor shaft. I have the 6” hilborn fuel pump driveshaft on hand anyway, so that’s what I will probably use.
Another piece that I have kicking around is a short hilborn spud drive off the end of a chevy roller that was in a sprint car motor. I could also drill into the end of that piece so I could stick it on the end of an FE oil pump driveshaft, and do it that way.
Just thought, I probably should have sent this as a pm, the HAMB taught me that when it comes to posting stuff like this on an open forum, discretion is the better part of valour... ;)
Oh yea, I forgot, driving the oil pump drive in the motor. This part is easy-peasy, just take any old FE single point ( I got one off a buddy for $10), cut the top of the housing off where the stock distributor clamp sits, tap the hole for an Allen head plug, cut the top of the shaft off so there’s a little end play between it and the bottom of the Allen head plug, stick it in the hole, hold it down with another distributor clamp, and now you can drive the oil pump, and the blower can sit where it should have been in the first place, and you can shove the back two cylinders back under the cowl, and still keep the wipers, so the gendarmes don’t send for the tow truck the first time you pull out of your driveway.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2018, 07:07:24 PM by falcongeorge »

falcongeorge

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #21 on: September 20, 2018, 08:00:03 PM »
I’m stating the obvious here, this precludes the use of a stock water pump, you will need an electric remote water pump.. If you are going strictly “period” you can use a Jabsco, I am using an Australian made Davies-Craig, you could also use a Dedenbear or a Meziere. I have one friend using a Jabsco on a 10% over 6-71 blown sbc in a street driven Austin A-40, and another buddy of mine is running a Meziere on his street driven blown FE, both cool just fine.

HvyFt4spd

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #22 on: September 21, 2018, 02:01:01 PM »
Hey George,

 I went through that with my injected 289 in driving the Algon water pump and Cherry Burrell off the cam. In that case the distributor was in the standard location but everything was obsolete 11spline drive and the crank to cam centerline pushed things out a bit to clear the balancer.

On some of my stuff collar supports were fitted much as you discribe and a male hex adapter replaced the distributor gear. Some shortened the shaft or used Flathead magneto's etc. What I had for mine were the M/T timing cover offset drives (Also made by Cragar and Holman Moody, HM had at least two versions)  I discovered with one of these a factory style waterpump could be used with minimal effort if desired. I ended up parting with this stuff but had it all worked out rather clean.

 Anyway if of use I can set you up and give you the details on the conversion of the stock pump. With these units a cam gear extension is used to drive the distributor and shims are used for any needed lash adjustment. This one is NOS with the original spud drive which can also run pump(s) through the face of the cover.

  The Jabsco unit is familiar but I'm not up on it as I've yet to own one. The Lehman triple drive waterpump however has been reproduced. It would likely require some type of support and need to be spaced past the belt (or the belt spaced forward) but it would look rather wild, solve all of this and allow for a change to mechanical injection later.

, Dan

falcongeorge

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #23 on: September 21, 2018, 05:55:53 PM »
I’m actually kind of “pumped” ;D to use the Davies-Craig, I have heard good things about them. They actually make one that is mostly made of plastic, and is so lightweight, you don’t actually mount it, just cut the rad hose and push the  inlet/outlet into the ends of the rad hose. They also make the same basic pump in aluminum, if you want to hard-mount it. Not sure which one I will go with, but considering it’s on the front end of a light car with a blown FE, the plastic one is VERY tempting.

Dumpling

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #24 on: September 22, 2018, 08:48:30 PM »
A Windsor blower intake wouldn't work, but a Cleveland blower intake would work on my adapter, I know of at least one guy who bought his adapter to use with an old Cleveland blower intake.

Windsor intake on a 351C adapter...uses a PME (Price Motorsports adapter) between the Windsor intake and Cleveland adapter:
« Last Edit: September 22, 2018, 08:50:28 PM by Dumpling »

jayb

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #25 on: September 22, 2018, 09:33:42 PM »
So that's why you wanted me to machine the water jacket passage off the intake adapter ;D  That is a 302 intake, right?  Are you able to use the thermostat housing in the 302 intake, or do you have to run separate water lines from each side to an external thermostat housing?
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

Dumpling

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Re: Blue Thunder blower intake
« Reply #26 on: September 23, 2018, 07:09:57 AM »
Didn't want to cut the Bud Moore 351C crossram intake to fit the adapter.
The BXR will probably only work on a relatively small COD...