FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: falcongeorge on September 15, 2018, 05:43:37 PM
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What’s happening with these, are they going to make any more, or are they gone for good? There don’t seem to be any available ANYWHERE at this point.
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Mustang's Unlimited shows them on their web site. Not sure about availability
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Mustang's Unlimited shows them on their web site. Not sure about availability
Id actually looked at that earlier, there’s a note under “add to cart” that says “extended delivery time” which to me, translates as “maybe someday, if you are lucky”. ;)
But you do make a good point, maybe a phone call is in order.
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What about DSC ? Dennis is close enough to twist Mr Francis' arm to get production going.
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What about DSC ? Dennis is close enough to twist Mr Francis' arm to get production going.
Good point Tom, I checked his website, he doesn’t currently have them listed, but I will add him to my phone list, maybe he can get one cast. Alkydigger used to have a really nice separate blower mount/plenum listed on his site to fab your own intake from., but it’s not there anymore, I should follow up with him as well. The original plan was to get one of those and mill a 4.5-5”wide section out of the center out of my Porto-sonic, which would have cut well back into the runners, then tig the alkydigger piece into the center, it would have probably worked well, but it’s pretty major surgery, and I am concerned about how much distortion I would have to deal with afterwards. The way the other pieces are coming together, I need to get some sort of intake together soon. I need to get the intake sorted so I can buy a snout. I have no interest in the BDS/offy piece, it’s way too much money for what I see as an inferior piece.
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I have one on backorder with Mustangs Unlimited for about 2 years now. They emailed me earlier this year asking if I still wanted it. I replied "yes" and were they going to be getting them in and when. They replied that there was no delivery date yet. I also contacted the guy on Ebay that seems to have a lot of BT stuff and he said maybe in 6 months. That was two months ago so who knows.
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Thanks Alan good info there. It sounds like more may be coming in the next few months. I should get my name on a waiting list with someone.
The alkydigger piece was pretty good, it was similar to the 4” spacers you see everywhere, but it was relieved under the bolt flange so it would clear the tops of the runners on whatever intake you were welding it to. It was also cheaper than most of the spacers I see, IIRC, around $350/$375, vs $500 for a spacer, and you would still have to get the underside of the bolt flange milled away if you used a spacer, add in shipping (I am in Canada) and you would easily be into the spacer for $700+ before you even start welding it to the intake you are using. By that time, you may as well buy the BT and sell the Porto-sonic, and not have all the hassle building an intake.
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Maybe use a small block blower intake on Jay's adapter ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-SB-351W-Windsor-6-71-8-71-Blower-Intake-Manifold-Satin/182210489631?hash=item2a6c976d1f:g:YlcAAOSwkLhaA4sg:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!92868!US!-1
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A Windsor blower intake wouldn't work, but a Cleveland blower intake would work on my adapter, I know of at least one guy who bought his adapter to use with an old Cleveland blower intake.
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A Windsor blower intake wouldn't work, but a Cleveland blower intake would work on my adapter, I know of at least one guy who bought his adapter to use with an old Cleveland blower intake.
I have been eyeballing one of these wondering if it would work with my Jay-dapter. ;)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-302-351C-Cleveland-3V-4V-w-Tongues-Intake-Manifold-for-6-71-8-71-Blower/291747781841?hash=item43ed85dcd1:g:U~sAAOSwkLhaBAgr:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!67013!US!-1
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A Windsor blower intake wouldn't work, but a Cleveland blower intake would work on my adapter, I know of at least one guy who bought his adapter to use with an old Cleveland blower intake.
Most of the Cleveland blower intakes would put the blower higher and farther back than I want. I am going to some trouble to mount the distributor on the timing cover, just so I can avoid all that.
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I have been eyeballing one of these wondering if it would work with my Jay-dapter. ;)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-302-351C-Cleveland-3V-4V-w-Tongues-Intake-Manifold-for-6-71-8-71-Blower/291747781841?hash=item43ed85dcd1:g:U~sAAOSwkLhaBAgr:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!67013!US!-1
Pretty sure that one would work, Alan.
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I have been eyeballing one of these wondering if it would work with my Jay-dapter. ;)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-302-351C-Cleveland-3V-4V-w-Tongues-Intake-Manifold-for-6-71-8-71-Blower/291747781841?hash=item43ed85dcd1:g:U~sAAOSwkLhaBAgr:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!67013!US!-1
I looked at that and thought it was awful cheap. Looking closer, you might want to check into the details. I think that might just be the bolt on plate that is shown, and that a dual 4 intake must be bought and modified to work with it. I might be wrong, but that sure seems cheap if I am.
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Those intakes are from Procomp. Take it for what its worth.
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It is the complete intake, they do sell just the top plate and the intake separately though. For what it is it's not bad. Casting looks ok on the one I had my hands on.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172339278063
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172277711619
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Those intakes are from Procomp. Take it for what its worth.
Exactly.
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Dyers also came out with an FE blower intake a few years ago. They originally made a converted Offy 360 like BDS but this was a one piece casting to replace it. To me it looked like a Tunnelwedge cast with a blower flange on top but others suggested it might of started out as a Port O Sonic.
Definitely not the same as the Holman Moody intake Blue Thunder copied but a nice looking piece with distributor clearance bulit in.
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Sounds like a good piece, but distributor clearance is neither necessary, nor desirable, I want the blower low and forward, I want to set the engine back without notching into the cowl vent area, it’s going be street driven, and no wipers will get you pulled over in a heartbeat around here. And they will send you for a safety inspection, that’s game over.
EDIT: see reply #10
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Hey George,
Ahh, I did miss that part and had intended to ask. Are you running straight off the cam through the belt or running some sort of offset cover drive? I ask mostly as I rounded up all that stuff for mine and then ended up selling it to fund the Hiriser. Lol WTF was I thinking! The current owner contacted me recently about parting with it himself and may still have it. By the way should this be "FalconGeorge" of the Hamb this is "Algon"...
, Dan
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Hey George,
Ahh, I did miss that part and had intended to ask. Are you running straight off the cam through the belt or running some sort of offset cover drive? I ask mostly as I rounded up all that stuff for mine and then ended up selling it to fund the Hiriser. Lol WTF was I thinking! The current owner contacted me recently about parting with it himself and may still have it. By the way should this be "FalconGeorge" of the Hamb this is "Algon"...
, Dan
Hahaha, Hey Algon! Long time, no chat! This thing sat for a LOOOONG time, I have been working on a hilborn injected 331 Chevy t bucket. I was going to do mech. FI on the FE too, but doing it on the T has damn near put me in the poorhouse, so I am doing carbs on the FE. I haven’t made the drive yet I want to wait until I have a manifold, snout, and pulleys on the motor before I make the distributor drive, but I have a couple ways I can see to do it.
First thing is to get a timing cover that’s designed to accept a typical 4 bolt mech fuel pump, I got a Glenwood Marine cover. I am going to use an Allen head bolt in the end of the cam, it will accept the hex on the end of a typical driveshaft for a hilborn or enderle pump. I have a shaft about 6” long, that I got off eBay. I am using an accel tach drive dual point, and my hilborn pump driveshaft is 5/8” mean diameter. Once I get everything mocked up, I will figure out how long a drive I need to get the distributor top out in front of the belt, then I will cut my pump driveshaft to length in a lathe, then drill into the end with a 7/16 bit, so I can slide the end of the distributor shaft into the end of the fuel pump driveshaft. It has to go in deep enough so that the end of the pump drive is up past the original hole for the distributor gear roll-pin. I will probably shorten the end of the distributor shaft so I don’t have to drill so deep into the fuel pump driveshaft. Then you drill a hole the right size to accept the roll pin through the fuel pump driveshaft at a right angle, and drive the roll pin in place.
Then you cut two aluminum collars on the lathe, one for the timing cover end, that gets a big hole in the center for the distributor, and four small holes to match the pattern on the timing cover, another for the other end with a big hole in the center that accepts the seal on the distributor, weld them onto a length of aluminum tube that’s the right length, drill and tap a hole in the collar on the distributor end for the distributor clamp, and you are done.
Another way to make the drive itself would be to just use an old FE pump drive, cut it off, and drill a piece of 1/2” hex stock to accept the cut off end of the oil pump drive, and tig the tow pieces together. You follow? So the big end of the hex fits the in the hex in the end of the Allen head bolt holding the timing gear on, and the End of the oil pump driveshaft you have tigged into the other end of the hex stock fits into the end of the distributor shaft. I have the 6” hilborn fuel pump driveshaft on hand anyway, so that’s what I will probably use.
Another piece that I have kicking around is a short hilborn spud drive off the end of a chevy roller that was in a sprint car motor. I could also drill into the end of that piece so I could stick it on the end of an FE oil pump driveshaft, and do it that way.
Just thought, I probably should have sent this as a pm, the HAMB taught me that when it comes to posting stuff like this on an open forum, discretion is the better part of valour... ;)
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Hey George,
Ahh, I did miss that part and had intended to ask. Are you running straight off the cam through the belt or running some sort of offset cover drive? I ask mostly as I rounded up all that stuff for mine and then ended up selling it to fund the Hiriser. Lol WTF was I thinking! The current owner contacted me recently about parting with it himself and may still have it. By the way should this be "FalconGeorge" of the Hamb this is "Algon"...
Q
, Dan
Hahaha, Hey Algon! Long time, no chat! This thing sat for a LOOOONG time, I have been working on a hilborn injected 331 Chevy t bucket. I was going to do mech. FI on the FE too, but doing it on the T has damn near put me in the poorhouse, so I am doing carbs on the FE. I haven’t made the drive yet I want to wait until I have a manifold, snout, and pulleys on the motor before I make the distributor drive, but I have a couple ways I can see to do it.
First thing is to get a timing cover that’s designed to accept a typical 4 bolt mech fuel pump, I got a Glenwood Marine cover. I am going to use an Allen head bolt in the end of the cam, it will accept the hex on the end of a typical driveshaft for a hilborn or enderle pump. I have a shaft about 6” long, that I got off eBay. I am using an accel tach drive dual point, and my hilborn pump driveshaft is 5/8” mean diameter. Once I get everything mocked up, I will figure out how long a drive I need to get the distributor top out in front of the belt, then I will cut my pump driveshaft to length in a lathe, then drill into the end with a 7/16 bit, so I can slide the end of the distributor shaft into the end of the fuel pump driveshaft. It has to go in deep enough so that the end of the pump drive is up past the original hole for the distributor gear roll-pin. I will probably shorten the end of the distributor shaft so I don’t have to drill so deep into the fuel pump driveshaft. Then you drill a hole the right size to accept the roll pin through the fuel pump driveshaft at a right angle, and drive the roll pin in place.
Then you cut two aluminum collars on the lathe, one for the timing cover end, that gets a big hole in the center for the distributor, and four small holes to match the pattern on the timing cover, another for the other end with a big hole in the center that accepts the seal on the distributor, weld them onto a length of aluminum tube that’s the right length, drill and tap a hole in the collar on the distributor end for the distributor clamp, and you are done.
Another way to make the drive itself would be to just use an old FE pump drive, cut it off, and drill a piece of 1/2” hex stock to accept the cut off end of the oil pump drive, and tig the tow pieces together. You follow? So the big end of the hex fits the in the hex in the end of the Allen head bolt holding the timing gear on, and the End of the oil pump driveshaft you have tigged into the other end of the hex stock fits into the end of the distributor shaft. I have the 6” hilborn fuel pump driveshaft on hand anyway, so that’s what I will probably use.
Another piece that I have kicking around is a short hilborn spud drive off the end of a chevy roller that was in a sprint car motor. I could also drill into the end of that piece so I could stick it on the end of an FE oil pump driveshaft, and do it that way.
Just thought, I probably should have sent this as a pm, the HAMB taught me that when it comes to posting stuff like this on an open forum, discretion is the better part of valour... ;)
Oh yea, I forgot, driving the oil pump drive in the motor. This part is easy-peasy, just take any old FE single point ( I got one off a buddy for $10), cut the top of the housing off where the stock distributor clamp sits, tap the hole for an Allen head plug, cut the top of the shaft off so there’s a little end play between it and the bottom of the Allen head plug, stick it in the hole, hold it down with another distributor clamp, and now you can drive the oil pump, and the blower can sit where it should have been in the first place, and you can shove the back two cylinders back under the cowl, and still keep the wipers, so the gendarmes don’t send for the tow truck the first time you pull out of your driveway.
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I’m stating the obvious here, this precludes the use of a stock water pump, you will need an electric remote water pump.. If you are going strictly “period” you can use a Jabsco, I am using an Australian made Davies-Craig, you could also use a Dedenbear or a Meziere. I have one friend using a Jabsco on a 10% over 6-71 blown sbc in a street driven Austin A-40, and another buddy of mine is running a Meziere on his street driven blown FE, both cool just fine.
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Hey George,
I went through that with my injected 289 in driving the Algon water pump and Cherry Burrell off the cam. In that case the distributor was in the standard location but everything was obsolete 11spline drive and the crank to cam centerline pushed things out a bit to clear the balancer.
On some of my stuff collar supports were fitted much as you discribe and a male hex adapter replaced the distributor gear. Some shortened the shaft or used Flathead magneto's etc. What I had for mine were the M/T timing cover offset drives (Also made by Cragar and Holman Moody, HM had at least two versions) I discovered with one of these a factory style waterpump could be used with minimal effort if desired. I ended up parting with this stuff but had it all worked out rather clean.
Anyway if of use I can set you up and give you the details on the conversion of the stock pump. With these units a cam gear extension is used to drive the distributor and shims are used for any needed lash adjustment. This one is NOS with the original spud drive which can also run pump(s) through the face of the cover.
The Jabsco unit is familiar but I'm not up on it as I've yet to own one. The Lehman triple drive waterpump however has been reproduced. It would likely require some type of support and need to be spaced past the belt (or the belt spaced forward) but it would look rather wild, solve all of this and allow for a change to mechanical injection later.
, Dan
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I’m actually kind of “pumped” ;D to use the Davies-Craig, I have heard good things about them. They actually make one that is mostly made of plastic, and is so lightweight, you don’t actually mount it, just cut the rad hose and push the inlet/outlet into the ends of the rad hose. They also make the same basic pump in aluminum, if you want to hard-mount it. Not sure which one I will go with, but considering it’s on the front end of a light car with a blown FE, the plastic one is VERY tempting.
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A Windsor blower intake wouldn't work, but a Cleveland blower intake would work on my adapter, I know of at least one guy who bought his adapter to use with an old Cleveland blower intake.
Windsor intake on a 351C adapter...uses a PME (Price Motorsports adapter) between the Windsor intake and Cleveland adapter:
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So that's why you wanted me to machine the water jacket passage off the intake adapter ;D That is a 302 intake, right? Are you able to use the thermostat housing in the 302 intake, or do you have to run separate water lines from each side to an external thermostat housing?
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Didn't want to cut the Bud Moore 351C crossram intake to fit the adapter.
The BXR will probably only work on a relatively small COD...