Novice mistake, I forgot the tranny to engine spacer

[Dot Heton]

I forgot the spacer between the engine and tranny in my '66 F100. I've been thinking of the best way to get it in there and pulling back the tranny seems like the best way to go. The downfall is how greasy it is and that I'm not too strong. I think I'll put the hoist through the door and use nylon straps to support it.

I'm having a problem with snapping bolts as I was installing the pressure plate. I torqued them to 25 lbs. should I use locktite on them?

[chris401]

I usually use the blue locktite. On your bolts snaping, are you pulling them down even before the final torque? It is a good idea to take the bolts down evenly over at least three rounds.


A time saving trick you may already know: Hang your pressure plate and clutch disc on the input shaft, stab the transmission, bolt up the bell housing and then start your pressure plate bolt sequence.

[TJ]

My guess for breaking pressure plate bolts is that you're using old bolts.  Summit Racing has them under "Arp Pressure Plate Fasteners".

[cjshaker]

No way you should be snapping pressure plate bolts off. A couple things come to mind. First, are you using the correct 'shoulder' bolts? Are you sure they're grade 8 bolts? And like Chris said, they should be drawn up evenly. Lastly, is your torque wrench correctly calibrated? I ask that last one because many big torque wrenches, ones designed to go upwards of 150+ lbs of torque, can be off by quite a bit when using at the extreme lower end of the scale. I have several, and the one I use for stuff like that only goes to 50 ft.lbs, so 25 puts it right in the middle, where it's typically most accurate.

[Falcon67]

A time saving trick you may already know: Hang your pressure plate and clutch disc on the input shaft, stab the transmission, bolt up the bell housing and then start your pressure plate bolt sequence.

My method was to just use a wood stick with the right shoulders to line up the plate with the pilot.  As above, run around and around about one turn at a time going down with the pressure plate.  Use new bolts - ARP recommended. 

When stabbing the trans, get two long bolts that will thread into the top two holee on the back of the bell - 6~8" long or so.  Cut the heads off and thread in the "studs" into the bell a few turns.  Put the trans in gear and either stick a yoke in the tail or keep a pair of water pump pliers handy.  Hang the trans on the studs and grab the tail, just wiggle a bit and slide it in.  If the input shaft doesn't go right into the disk, give the tail shaft a bit of a turn.  Easy pie, done it 100s of times even with no floor jack, just humping the trans off my chest.  I prefer a jack LOL.  Once the trans is hung on the studs it's very easy to handle and line up.  A lot easier than trying to do it with a trans laying on a floor jack or what not.

[Dot Heton]

I think I'll try that long bolt trick. I tightened the pressure plate very evenly, 1/4 turn at a time. The bolts are the original shouldered grade 8 bolts. I'm just frustrated that I forgot the plate, it's my first Ford engine rebuild.

[TJ]

While you're in there, throw in a new set of Arp flywheel bolts too.

Might cut a slot into those long guide bolts for a screw driver in case they stick a little when trying to unscrew them.

[Drew Pojedinec]

I might be wrong.... but my line of thinking is this.

Does the trans fit into the engine ok without clearance issues?  If yes, the only benefit to the spacer plate is to properly locate the starter.  This space creates the proper gap between the starter pinion and the ring gear.

If it was me, and I had it all assembled in the car, I'd simply make a starter plate shim and just roll like that until the next time I had everything apart.

[Dot Heton]

I've thought of making a starter shim but doesn't the plate locate the starter?

[Falcon67]

You need the plate, stuff like this happens.  Fix it right and you'll sleep easier.

[Rory428]

Agreed, the block plate needs to be there to center the starter correctly. Without the plate, the clearance in the starter bolt holes allows the starter to have way too much slop, and chances are you will experience starter  & flywheel damage and the starter bolts will keep loosening up, and possibly break the cast aluminum nose cone. And defineatly buy new high quality pressure plate bolts. Those 6 little 5/16" bolts have a critical task.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the earliest FE's not have the spacer plate?

[Rory428]

Yes, the 58 thru 64 FEs did not use a block plate. However, the bellhousings used with these earlier engines had a machined recess in the starter pocket to positively locate the starter motor. The later bellhousings are flat where the starter bolts, so the hole in the block plate locates the starter correctly. I guess Ford did not want to deal with the all too common grinding, screeching, binding starter issues, and damaged flywheel teeth that Chevys guys get to deal with.

[Drew Pojedinec]

As always, appreciate the education and your input Rory.

and yeah, the two bolt Chevy starter is an abomination.

[shady]

all of my 63 & 64s have spacer plates from new.