3G Alternator upgrade - Part Numbers or Specific Donor Vehicles?

[Yellow Truck]

I know more than a few posts have been made here and elsewhere on this project, but I haven't seen any that specify the Ford part number or specific donor vehicles that yield the best fitting part.

I understand that the 130 amp alternator has two holes on the outer area, and top and bottom ears are required, but I've read a few comments that suggest some are shallower than others, essentially a better fit.

What vehicles or part numbers should I target?

[66ford]

I have a big case 3g on my 66 F100 w/390 with the high mount pickup brackets-works great!

Give these a try here:

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/3ag/3ag.htm

http://s66.photobucket.com/user/D3thM3tal/media/1974%20Bronco/3GInstall.jpg.html

http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1918

https://bzerob2.wordpress.com/2012/11/04/upgrading-to-a-ford-g-series-alternator/

I also use the B+ alternator lead from a 2000 Ford expedition since it has the mega fuse built in- cheap and easy to get in the local pick-n-pull. Goes from the alternator, to a block on the firewall where the mega fuse is mounted. It can be unbolted easily.

[Yellow Truck]

Excellent resources. Thanks.

[Falcon67]

The yard I go to here has a storage container that is nothing but alternators.  100s.  So I just sort through and fine one I like, $45. 

[thatdarncat]

I did the 130 amp 3G alternator swap a few years ago on my '67 Shelby drag car and I'm totally happy. I'm lucky to have a friend who's family runs a good local starter & alternator rebuilding company and he set me up with my first 3G alternator, so I didn't initially have an exact application, but he knew I wanted the one that was closest to the original FE mounting and knew exactly what I needed. I have the two ear "pivot" mounting with 7" spread between the bolt holes. I just took a look at the box it came in and it is marked "7765-7" which seems to match the info in the last link 66Ford supplied. Mine has the one threaded hole, but as mentioned in the above links it will be metric thread. I made a custom mount since I am using a Meziere electric water pump which doesn't have the mounting holes a stock style Ford FE water pump will have. I am going to be using a 130 amp 3G alternator on the '67 Cougar I'm building, but I will be using one of Jay's water pump adapters for the CVR electric pump that have the alternator mounting bracket holes. I think the 3G's that have the 7" spread work best for my applications, but the ones with the 8+" spread may be better for some people, it will depend on what you intend to use for brackets. The links 66Ford supplied have some good application info, I've been watching while out in the salvage yards and what I spotted that matched the 3G's I have were the Taurus, but you can see there are others.

I'll add a couple things, just for people looking to do this swap on their old Ford - You'll probably want the special wiring plugs that connect to the alternator. One of the links 66Ford supplied gives some info on what to get, my buddy gave me the first one I used, but I've since been watching the U-Pull-It lots. If you're a budget minded person like me you can snip the connectors off any 3G you find, but I've noticed some Ford trucks will have a pretty good wiring harness all ready made and ready to go. Here is a picture of a couple alternator wiring harnesses. Sorry I don't have an exact application, I just grabbed stuff that looked like a good donor, but I believe the longer ( about 36" ) wiring harness came from a '90's full size Ford pickup. The shorter ( about 24" ) harness I think came from a '90's Ford Ranger pickup. Along with the needed plugs for the alternator they include a nice heavy gauge wire that goes from the alternator to the starter solenoid you will need. The shorter one will work perfect for typical FE's that have the alternator near the starter solenoid on the passenger side inner fender. Many of the other original 3G applications use a much longer heavy wire that crosses the whole engine compartment.



Here's a close up picture of the wiring plug end. You will also get a nice rubber boot that slips over the heavy wire's connector with the factory harness.



My other thought - the 3G originally used the serpentine belt and the parts store or salvage yard alternator will probably come with that style pulley. If you will be converting to a V-belt know that the alternator pulley shaft can be a little short compared to what our old 1G alternators had. I mention this because the 3G at high output will really need some good belt grip! I found you will probably need either a 2 v-belt pulley, or a larger diameter pulley that gets more belt contact. Many of the 2 belt smaller diameter alternator pulleys do not have a deep enough recess in the center to get the nut on the 3G alternator shaft, but they do make them. I ended up using a large 4" diameter "Hi-Po" style single belt pulley like the Mustang resto places sell on my Shelby, since that's what I had on hand, but I intend to use a 2 belt pulley on my Cougar.

[Yellow Truck]

Kevin,

Interesting additional detail. I have a 2 belt setup now that I took off an F250 donor truck (driving my whopping 55 amp alternator). I'll have to check the pulley. You say "they make them", but do you know who "they" are or what the part is?

[jayb]

Pretty sure I've gotten my two belt alternator pulleys from Summit; I think they are a Powermaster part number.  Chrome, even!  Kevin is right, two alternator belts are a bare minimum when running a 3G alternator...

[afret]

These guys have everything you need to do the conversion.  I use this wiring kit to get rid of the voltage regulator:

http://www.paperformance.com/3g-adapter-462802b/

I have the 95 amp 3G alternator which is more than enough to power the water pump, dual electric fans, fuel pump, MSD 7, and lights using a smaller crank pulley and single belt.

[Falcon67]

FWIW - on my SBFs that I want to use a regular water pump, March sells a 6 rib pulley that lets you use a stock 5.0 crank and stock alternator for a serpentine belt. The only problem is it's $$ and shiny.  I also have found belts short enough to run just the crank and alternator on an SBF with an electric pump.  You can put a pulley on any 3G, but you will likely have to make or find a very thin shim or the sheave may rub the case. 

All the hot rods and the 1993 F350 use a 3G.   No problems with bearings spinning to the moon but I try to service them every 24 months.  Had to put a 3G on the 350 DRW because the stocker wouldn't keep the voltage up with all the lights, AC and accessories at night.  I had to put a 90A breaker between the 3G and the battery because of current draw.  Works good now, dash gauge is rock steady pulling home after dark.

Now all that, and on the dragster with a big 7AL-3 ignition, Meziere 30 GPH pump, big 16" high power fan, trans brake, digital display, etc - it runs a bitty 50A no-name alternator and holds the system 13+V no problem.  I cut down a stocker pulley set to fit the SFI balancer and that little thing has to be 12,000+ RPM on the 1-2 shift.  $150 at a local alternator shop.

[Yellow Truck]

Perhaps a dumb question, but my truck is still in storage (snowed day before yesterday) so I can't easily go and measure.

Will a GM style 10 SI fit an FE? It is 5 inches from the front of the ear to the back of the bolt on the rear, and 6.6 inches between the bolt holes. I seem to recall that this will interfere with the head.

http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/13000024/images/adr0334dimensions.jpg

[TorinoBP88]

I used one from a 90s mustang (narrow bolt separation).  Used a 360 FE truck dual pulley, found the biggest diameter one i could, but had to have the hole in  it machined deeper for the nut, and a custom washer for behind the pulley.  Also I had to trim a bump on the back to clear the head.  It's an upper mount.  Finally sometime I will open it up and rotate the back 60 degrees (1/3 rotation) to move the hot wire away from the head.  Love it though.

I keep a $1 resister in the glove box as a jumper just in case the charge/gen light burns out (that is what i used to excite the alternator), to induce charge starting.

[thatdarncat]

I'm guessing this is the 2-groove pulley Jay referenced, Powermaster part number 112. Link:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=powermaster+112&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false

[Falcon67]

Not sure on a FE< but I tested an SI-10 on a SBF 302 using the stock mounts and it would impinge on the head.  Deeper than a stock Autolite.  Have had no problems dropping in a 3G on everything else. 

[abyars]

With my luck I figured what I found in the junkyard would fail on me and cost my a rebuild which would be close to what a new one would cost so I bought new.  I got everything from these guys and and a simple wiring harness to get rid of the regulator.  I talked with them on the phone and they're very nice and helpful.

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=17&catid=45&ret=catalog.php%3Fcategory%3D45