428 engine break in

[fescj428]

I am very nearly ready to break in the 428 for my Mustang and just wanted a little feedback. I realize this topic has been discussed much, but I'd much rather error on the safe side and ask again. I'd be glad to give a "break down" on the engine build if needed, but my biggest concern is the flat tappet cam.

I plan on using Valvoline VR1 10W-30 oil with the CompCams break in additive, drill prime the engine. As for the actual break in, run the engine a maximum of three twenty minute periods at 2000/2500 rpm with cool down in between. I suspect that if the cam makes it the first twenty minutes, I'll be ok? Any thoughts or help would be appreciated! Brian N

[jayb]

Solid or hydraulic cam?  How about your spring pressures?  I think the oil you are using with the additive is fine.  If you have double springs, take out the inners for the break-in.  Better yet would be just to install some old, worn out springs that don't have a lot of pressure.  If you have a solid cam, I would check the lash after the first break-in period; if you see any valves where the lash has changed by several thousandths, that could be trouble.  Make sure you set the timing right away after the engine is up and running at 2500 RPM.  Also after the first break in period, its a good idea to cut the oil filter open and drain the oil, looking for any excessive amount of metal.  Also FWIW, I've never run a new cam for more than one 20 minute break-in period.

[Rory428]

Also , before cranking the engine, make sure the carb float bowls are full, distributor is installed correctly, and the cooling system is full, and capable of running 20-30 minutes at 2500 RPM without boiling over. You want that new engine to fire up instantly, and get the revs up right away. A large fan, or a garden hose running water thru the rad can help keep coolant temps in check during cam break in. Having the oil level a quart above full can`t hurt, either. Good luck!

[Dot Heton]

I'll soon be doing a cam break-in too.  Should a vary the RPM's or keep it at 2500 for the twenty minutes?

[blykins]

Vary. 

Different areas of the cam get oil splash depending on the engine rpms. 

Basically, use the right oil, make sure  the spring pressures are not too high for break-in, have the timing set and the  carb filled so that the engine will immediately fire, and vary the rpms for 20-25 minutes. 

[gdaddy01]

pray

[2ndgear]

I am also going to start my engine for the first time. I have a hyd. roller cam (not very ) and also wondering if I need to break end the cam with less pressure valve springs, since it is a hyd. roller? I know flat tappet cams require the valve spring change.

[blykins]

Roller cams get no special treatment. 

Turn the key. 

[fescj428]

I want to explain a bit about my engine and then answer a couple questions. Ok, the engine is a "faux" Super CJ, 428 service block .030 over, Scat cast crank, Lemans rods, Probe SRS -16cc pistons, C6AE-R heads with CJ valves, CompCams EX274H cam, Milodon deep sump S/S style pan, street dominator intake, Holley 3310-1 carb, Hooker super comps. This engine is a story in itself which I plan on sharing in member rides section.

I have some older worn valve springs from a 360 that I could use for engine break in. I had an old crusty local FE guy tell me to "just lube it right and run the damn thing the way it is" with current springs installed. Lol. Also, I don't think I'll have an oil quantity issue with the pan I'm using. I will take all the precautions, water/cooling system, large floor fan, etc. I remember clearly that someone told me to do the three twenty minute run times, just not sure who? But, I don't disagree, I think if it makes the first twenty, I'm good.

Thanks for the great info guys! Been a long time since I've done anything with an FE and it's great having support!

[unclewill]

I'll second Rory428 by saying the cooling system must be 100%!  It really sucks to overheat first crack out of the box.

[machoneman]

Yes on the cooling system. But the #1 and#2 start-up issues are not having the timing right and carb issues. In fact, on the carb it's best to use a known, good, used and recently run carb to ensure it'll fire right now with no issues.

[cammerfe]

I can clearly remember helping a friend install a 427 into his '57. The engine was a 'take-out' from a crash. Everything was bolted down but the exhaust wasn't finished. He started it and let it run for a couple of minutes before he'd even installed the radiator, to say nothing of the coolant. Of course, the engine had several thousand miles on it and had a fresh splash of oil at the time.

KS

[TorinoBP88]

be careful about using "old" springs on a bigger cam like  that. Either coil bind or breaking a spring is possible.

If your springs are under 350# open, just run the new springs for break in, but use plenty of cam lube, lather the lifters, and go the chevy dealer and get a bottle of GM EOS engine run in lube (is a zinc oil to be added to the oil  for the first 20 min run it time.)