Replacing oil pan without pulling motor. Now with video!

[428Marauder]

Now, the oil pan I am replacing,,is straight up wrecked. I got all the bolts and washers out of it, and am prepping them for paint. For $15 I picked up this deal:

http://i.imgur.com/9uUTUsK.jpg

Worn out bunghole, but an oversize fits it well.

http://imgur.com/CSor8Ux

Internal baffles.

http://imgur.com/4FtVWgX

Pain in the butt job. Starting to think, this old oil pan kinda sucks.

[Lowrider]

I've seen worse repaired. FWIW, when I used to come across a stripped drain plug instead of going oversize I would braze a fine thread 7/16 nut to the pan and just use a 7/16 bolt for the plug. Never had to worry about stripping it again.

[428Marauder]

That's actually why I have to replace the pan I had. The nut came loose during an oil change and they needed to hammer out the hole to remove it.

At any rate, I think I have this pan in decent shape. Got all the bolts out, and got it all painted.

http://imgur.com/7ZuCIUZ

I also found my inspection plate for my C6, so I painted that as well. Now I just need bolts for it. Any idea what size bolts I need for that?

[Lowrider]

Should take a couple 5/16-18 bolts about 1/2in long.

[428Marauder]

Turns out the nut in the pan was JB welded in! 

I'm making a quick video about it that I will post when finished.

[Leny Mason]

I have had to put some solder around the hole  so you can file it so the washer seals, vary seldom does the oversize plug go in straight. Leny Mason

[428Marauder]

I have had to put some solder around the hole  so you can file it so the washer seals, vary seldom does the oversize plug go in straight. Leny Mason

Just tested it and it leaks, bad. The oversize bolt actually went in and seemed tight without cutting new threads, but didn't bite until it got pretty far in there. Is that the best solution (solder) or should I get a larger bolt?

Note: the pan isn't in the car yet

Eta: pic of hole

http://imgur.com/juj8DUC

From the inside:

http://imgur.com/m1iCG8O

[428Marauder]

Can't seem to get solder to stick. Going to get a bigger bolt.

[Leny Mason]

It need's to be really clean use flux paste, I do not think a bigger bolt will help the head is not flat on the face of the pan, you need to build it up with some thing so you can file it flat, Clean it good brake clean might help. Leny Mason

[fekbmax]

Flux coated brazing rod + map gas.

[Heo]

Dont use brake cleaner.It Can be extremly toxic if heated
with open flame. Resulting in kidney failure

[Heo]

Trye a lead washer

[428Marauder]

I was thinking the threads and the bolt being tight would hold in the oil, but it makes sense that the washer needs to be flat on the surface. I think I can get it filed nice and flat without building it up with solder.

Update: Good and bad news. Filing the surface seems to have fixed the leak. The bad news is I noticed the bolt gets snug to a point and then if you tighten it too far, gets not as snug and needs about a turn and a half to get snug again. I think it will be OK. Putting on an extra washer.

Updare2: screw it, I'm buying a new pan.

[Lowrider]

Hahaha. I've done all that before. Better safe than sorry. Was going on a trip on my Harley Dyna years ago and when changing the oil the drain plug just didn't tighten up right. After screwing with it a while I bought a new pan for it.

[428Marauder]

Video coming soon that will make it look easy. It wasn't.

One point to note is that the paint will get messed up putting it in.

Also, I was unable to get the bottom washers on the new sway bar connectors. My thought is that I will let it compress overnight, then maybe I can get those washers on. Hopefully wont damage the new bushing too much. I will also try and touch up the paint, now that it's in.

Next, I need someone that understands timing better than I do to go through the timing. Recently added a Pertronix but still having detonation issues.