Author Topic: FE build  (Read 14707 times)

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drdano

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Re: FE build
« Reply #15 on: May 09, 2012, 09:26:20 AM »
I put a TKO600 in my '62 Galaxie and agree with Jim, it's a nice trans.  Since my car sits really low, I channeled the transmission hump up 3" the entire length of the car so I wouldn't have excessive working angles on the prop shafts.  Lot of time and money?  Oh yes...  Worth it?  For me, definitely.  4.11 gears for blasting the big barge around town and reasonable highway MPG.  Heres a thread that covers what I went through:  http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/494741-danos-62-galaxie-tko-swap-thread.html

JimNolan

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Re: FE build
« Reply #16 on: May 09, 2012, 09:43:53 AM »
drdano,
   Nice to hear from you again. It's been a while. If these guys knew what we did about a TKO 600, Tremec stock would go up in a hurry. I've heard some guys say a Tremec was a piece of junk. But they had 10 sec cars shifting at 8 grand. My car is for shows, cruising and occasional trips to the strip. The people that don't like the Tremec shift at 8 grand and the miles they put on their cars are on a trailer. Jim

Heo

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Re: FE build
« Reply #17 on: May 09, 2012, 12:12:45 PM »
Yes i need a overdrive where i live nearest bigger town
is 100 miles back and fort and our price on gas is
something i cant tell you beacuse you going to
call me a lier if i do :(
How is it to shift can you powershift it and
still have the gears inside the box



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

JimNolan

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Re: FE build
« Reply #18 on: May 09, 2012, 12:52:04 PM »
Heo,
   What I call powershifting ( putting your gas foot on the floor and not letting up shift ) is effortless. If I've never missed a shift or scrapped the gears, anybody could do it with this transmission. Jim  PS. You won't be powershifting into 5th though. That's a whole different throw. I'd be afraid to attemp that one.

drdano

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Re: FE build
« Reply #19 on: May 09, 2012, 03:52:21 PM »
The TKO600 is a nice trans out of the box and I think for those who aren't going 6000rpm+ to shift, it's going to work good.  Liberty Trans and others can modify them to high-rpm shift with upgraded components.  My new motor is done making power at 5500rpm, so I dont see any reason to go that hard.  Powershifting is no big deal, but the 2-3 shift takes some un-learning to do correctly.  You slide that sucker straight forward with your palm, not moving it over at all otherwise you get lost between 3rd and 5th.  Once I got that down no trouble ever. 

JimNolan

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Re: FE build
« Reply #20 on: May 09, 2012, 03:58:23 PM »
  You slide that sucker straight forward with your palm, not moving it over at all otherwise you get lost between 3rd and 5th.  Once I got that down no trouble ever.

Amen, brother preach on. I had to figure out that one too. Was scarey at first but it never fails to go into third. Jim

BigNate

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Re: FE build
« Reply #21 on: May 09, 2012, 06:48:11 PM »
  You slide that sucker straight forward with your palm, not moving it over at all otherwise you get lost between 3rd and 5th.  Once I got that down no trouble ever.

Amen, brother preach on. I had to figure out that one too. Was scarey at first but it never fails to go into third. Jim

Funny - I've got two friends with new (2011+) 5.0 Mustangs who have both complained about the 2-3 shift doing exactly what you describe - with the same remedy...
Arrrrg.... LOL  My sig line everywhere else is somewhat political... Will that get me kicked?

JimNolan

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Re: FE build
« Reply #22 on: May 09, 2012, 08:36:01 PM »
I shifted a Mustang with a Tremec in it. I felt like holding the shifter between my thumb and fore finger to shift it. It was such a short throw. My Tremec has a throw like a T-10 and you use a shifter handle like the one's from back when. The only way you'd know I got a 5 speed is it's location on the floor hump and the fact you don't miss shifts.  Jim

Heo

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Re: FE build
« Reply #23 on: May 11, 2012, 02:05:58 PM »
The book came today  Jay very interesting
you have made a lot of effort  to make this book
thank you for that
Im pretty sure of my combination now



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

jayb

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Re: FE build
« Reply #24 on: May 11, 2012, 03:10:43 PM »
Glad you like it.  The whole purpose of the book was to help people zero in on the best combination; good to hear that it helped.
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

Heo

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Re: FE build
« Reply #25 on: May 16, 2012, 12:57:39 PM »
I have another question for you Jay
Im abouth to build inividual runner
EFI for my Galaxie
on the SOHC in your Galaxie you
had some kind of EFI with eight
individual runners. If im thinking
right here you must have some
kind of "plenum" from port to
port for the vacum? Both for the
engine management and if i want
to run the powerbrakes
I was about to mill down a streetmaster
and weld aluminium tubing for the runners
and use 8 Pinto trottle bodys that are 52 mm
about 2.09 inch like the intake valves
am i thinking right there?
Now i gues i wait for the PSE bottom and weld
an intake to match that
I have a Cleveland 4V that i can build the intake on
I thinking about making the flanges thick enough
to drill holes along the flanges and that way get
the vacum plenum invisible and just conect them
at the end with a hose or a tube
I hope you understand what im rambling about
its not easy to explain in a language your not
so familiar with








The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

jayb

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Re: FE build
« Reply #26 on: May 16, 2012, 10:22:25 PM »
My individual runner SOHC intake is a Hilborn fuel injection setup converted to EFI.  I drilled and tapped each runner for a 1/8" pipe fitting and then ran a steel line from each runner to a sealed box in the middle of the manifold; I get the vacuum signal from that.  You could do the same thing.  Your idea of running the hole through the flange of the upper manifold is an interesting one; I think it would work, but I don't know how a connection between the ports right at the manifold would affect the engine's operation.  Running a tube from each runner to a remote box adds some isolation between the runners, and that may be important.  But I'm guessing; I don't know for sure.  If it was me I'd stay on the side of caution and use the tubes, because they will work for sure.

On the throttle butterflies, my SOHC has a 2.3" intake valve and a 2.43" throttle butterfly, and the throttle butterflies are too small for the horsepower level of my engine.  On the Weber setup I tested for my book, the throttle butterflies are 48mm (not quite 2"), and the intake valves are 2.09" to 2.25", depending on the dyno mule.  This manifold worked really well up to about 550 horsepower, but fell off after that.  So I think your 52mm Pinto throttle bodies ought to be just fine if you are shooting for 600 horsepower or less.

Your project sounds really interesting, and I'm looking forward to seeing your intake manifold when it is built!
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

Heo

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Re: FE build
« Reply #27 on: May 17, 2012, 05:26:14 AM »
Thanks for the answer Jay
Yes im shooting for less than
600 hp .This EFI intake is more
beacuse i like fabricating and
we got so long booring winters
Yes maby taking out the vacum
so close to the intake valve give
unstable signals...and dificult to
bore. well if i bore it and its not
working a can plug it up
I post here when i made some progress
But now we got the summer coming and
and im doing some bodywork on my dads
Packard Roadster so progress will be slow
for a while



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

Heo

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Re: FE build
« Reply #28 on: May 24, 2012, 07:01:48 AM »
Here is another question Jay do you still
have the Cleveland tunelram intake you
tested and if could you please meassure
C-C on the runners on top of the lower intake
and the diameter on the runners in the same
place.Or if somebody out there have a Cleveland
tunelram that can meassure that for me
otherwise i guess i can order a gasket for the
bottom-top but probably no speedshop in
Sweden have that in stock

PS. with C-C I meant Center to Center not
The volume DS.

Im thinking maby i can use a t-ram and cast a
new top to mount the throttle bodys on
How inportant is the location of the nossles?
Some say you should aim them at the
intake valve but a friend of me had a brand x
540 with Kinsler mecanical F.I and there was 3
locations for the nossles. And if i remember right
it developed most power on the dyno with the
nossles in the highest position or maby it was
the highest torque
After all we shorted the stacks and placed the
nossles acording to Kinslers recomendations
acording to the first dyno curve
and it was  real strong.




« Last Edit: May 24, 2012, 07:42:24 AM by Heo »



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it