Restoring old valve covers

[428Marauder]

I have a pair of 65 Mercury Marauder Z code 390 4bbl, pentroof valve covers. Cool, right? What's even cooler is, besides that they should fit my 428 just fine, that's actually the correct valve cover for my 1965 Z code Park Lane convertible.

What I would like to do is just clean them up real good, and paint them Ford blue. Paint thiner maybe? I washed em down with soap and water, think I let some gasoline soak inside a little, would like to get them totally clean. I might call a shop I know, see if they can just sand blast 'em for me. Shouldn't cost too much. In the meantime, maybe I can get a good idea on what they would charge to replace a head gasket.

I figured this was worth it's own thread. My head gasket (maybe) thread is here:

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=4287.0

[428Marauder]

Also, I would think, if you got them down to bare metal, no primer, just straight, Ford blue engine enamel. Right? And obviously, only on the outside. Is there anything you might do to the bare metal inside?

Note: The original color of this valve cover (and the 1965 Z code Mercury) is orange, but the 428 I have in the car is blue, and it is not a Broncos themed car so .. orange and blue would not be good.

[Drew Pojedinec]

-I wire wheel old paint and primer off, just to get the many layers down (a nice soft wire wheel, not a knot wheel or anything crazy like that)
-Sand the last little bit
-Knock out any dents
-treat with Ospho
-wash covers
-primer
-Paint

[428Marauder]

So you do use a primer. Is it heat resistant?

[AlanCasida]

I've just used some spray on paint stripper. It works good for me.

[Drew Pojedinec]

So you do use a primer. Is it heat resistant?

I suppose you don't *have* to.  I just hate doing something twice and am a huge fan of overkill.
For spray can stuff I like VHT.  They sell a primer for engine usage for $6 or therebouts.  I'm not coating anything with it, just tossing on a little so one can lasts for a good many projects.
As always with paint, figure out what the manufacturer recommends, they spend a fortune on R&D with their own products, no sense trying to reinvent the wheel.

[428Marauder]

Yeah, but ...

The engine enamel stuff you can get in a rattle can ... Prolly not meant to use with a primer. Could actually fail and flake off, unless it was the right kind of primer, so you would actually be better off not using a primer.

I dunno, could be wrong.

[FERoadster]

The 65 and 66-67 Merc Pentroofs have a slightly different shape. The 1965's have both ends the same shape. The 66-67's have a different facet on one end, probably for PB booster clearance.
If my understanding is correct the 1965's were orange and the 66-7's blue.
I've got 6 or 7 pair of them but the 65's are kind of hard to find. I'll post pictures of the difference (If I can).
CarQuest sells engine paint primer I use that as a base for the VC paint.
Richard

[Drew Pojedinec]

Yeah, but ...
The engine enamel stuff you can get in a rattle can ... Prolly not meant to use with a primer. Could actually fail and flake off, unless it was the right kind of primer, so you would actually be better off not using a primer.
I dunno, could be wrong.

If you get VHT engine enamel Primer and also get a can of VHT engine enamel.  I really have troubling thinking that you would run into problems (I never have).   I don't make it a habit to mix and match paint brands.
As I mentioned, every paint company has information you can find.  good luck

[Joe-JDC]

Don't use Rustolium paint primer on an engine, it is not fuel resistant, or heat resistant.  I used it the other day on an oil pan, and when I went to clean in the parts washer just prior to blow drying and paint, the primer came off in the parts washer fluid.  I found out the hard way by having to completely remove the Rustolium and start over.  Same with some of their other products that are not designed specifically for automotive use.  Joe-JDC

[cammerfe]

Some years ago I watched a guy try to take factory paint off a timing cover by sand-blasting. The paint is so tough that it actually ate a hole in the aluminum next to where there was a paint-run into a corner. Not long after I was using spray can gasket remover on a painted aluminum piece and found that it'll loosen paint practically instantly. I've used nothing else ever since to get paint off.

KS

[shady]

I don't like rattle cans for VC's. any fuel on them will lift or at least stain. you need a catalyzed paint like automotive. Eastwood does sell some catalyzed rattle cans. Never tried any but should be good. Nothing I hate more than mixing paint & cleaning guns. Prolly the VHT is the best rattle can as the heat from the engine kinds cures it.

[Rory428]

I`ve been using Duplicolors Engine enamel spray can paints for years, never had any issues with it lifting on staining, even with gasoline, both pump gas and VP leaded race fuel. The black Mercury tall pentroof valve covers that I have had on the past 2 428s and current 427 were painted probably 20 years ago, and still look nice and shiny. I prefer to have sheetmetal  engine pieces, like oil pans and valve covers hot tanked to remove any oil residue, which removes any old paint as well, and after a hot water rinse, blow them dry with compressed air. No primer, just the engine enamel, always worked and looked great. You will have trouble if the parts or paint is too cold.

[428Marauder]

I bought some spray on paint remover. It worked ok. Went through the whole can, got most of the old paint off. Now sanding and fine steel wool. They are gonna look nice, particularly on this car. Gonna do about 3 coats, straight, engine enamel.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xfrdMaGwb6I

I guess I should just mask around the plastic oil breather grommet there? Looks to be in good shape.

[428Marauder]

Ok, so I think I am OK with some of the original orange paint remaining for posterity.

Got one rattle can of Ford blue. Prolly, once ai wile it down with acetone, just mist it, and then, layers.