Author Topic: FE Block Oil Mods  (Read 11355 times)

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MeanMofakee

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FE Block Oil Mods
« on: August 24, 2016, 04:01:37 PM »
I haven't read anybody talk about the distributor gear oiling mods done on an FE block like they do on a 385 block. Is it a complete different setup, can't be done,or doesn't need it?

blykins

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2016, 07:06:19 AM »
I don't do any mods on any block for extra distributor oiling.  Never had an issue there. 

I think most guys experience distributor gear wear when they install new gears and try to line the roll pin holes back up....
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
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jayb

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2016, 08:27:20 AM »
I don't think the FE needs an oiling modification there, I've never used one.
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

chris401

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Doug, Your Main Saddle Oil Mods
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2016, 11:31:05 PM »
I read a post about FE oil mods in the main saddle weakening strength. I have two out there, what max power level should I advise? Doug mentioned opening up the main bearing instead of the block. With what I have here I was thinking a Dremel would be the least destructive, then widdle the edges down. Without a good fixture I think a small rat tail file would still distort the brass some. What is your method?

fekbmax

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2016, 12:30:43 AM »
I normally use a round chain saw blade sharpening file for any bearing mods. It takes some work but is less aggressive than most round files. Always pushing from the bearing side towards the back side then a light polish with a ultra fine pad. Works for me. Much eaiser to put a slight chamfer on the block at the opening.
« Last Edit: August 29, 2016, 06:09:05 AM by fekbmax »
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

blykins

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2016, 05:14:04 AM »
Chris, you just need to blend in the hole at the surface of the saddle.  No use in carving on it all the way down.  I flare the hole out to meet the bearing, but it doesn't go deep at all. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

chris401

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #6 on: August 29, 2016, 01:26:12 PM »
This about how far you are taking them?


blykins

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2016, 02:22:06 PM »
That's about right.  No need to hog them out. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

chris401

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2016, 04:07:11 PM »
Looks adequate.
Thanks

cammerfe

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #9 on: August 29, 2016, 04:29:36 PM »
In regard to center-oiler block mods, I did an FE engine series for Mustang Illustrated Magazine some years ago. All the machine work was done in the Roush Prototype shop.

I started out with the thought that we've learned a bunch since the basic lines for the FE engine were laid down and it would be of benefit to 'drag the FE engine into the 21st century.'

Jack Roush had many fingers into the various performance offices at Ford and made offers to many of the original engineers. So a number of them started a second career working for Roush. I had access to them as a sort of 'brain trust' and sought suggestions from them.

We did such things as taking a center-oiler block and cutting it up to see how much space we had between oil galleries and water jackets, for instance.

The result of all the eyeballing and head scratching was that we opened all the galleries slightly and did a bit of whittling elsewhere. (The purpose of the work was to create a street engine of over 500 HP and keep it easily drivable.)

Probably the most significant change to the oiling passages was that we bored out the cam tunnel, re-grooved the bulkheads, and pressed-in a set of roller cam-bearings. Since the necessity for lubing the cam journals was negated---rollers are easily lubed by splash---ALL the oil could be directed to the mains.

I used a C4 PI block. The lifter silos were set for oiling---the fore/aft galleries were drilled at the factory---but the little tower in the back of the valley had not been opened. We drilled there and then tapped for set-screws. Now we had oil for the solid roller lifters.

We used screw-in plugs everywhere and restricted the top-end oil with drilled set-screws at the head-block interface.

In every case, the work done was at the suggestion of the engineers who directed the FE performance program in the first place.

KS

chris401

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #10 on: August 29, 2016, 05:59:18 PM »
A little crude but they do the job. On the roller camshaft bearings was there any measured loss with the extra rotating mass or did friction loss balance out?




wsu0702

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #11 on: August 29, 2016, 09:08:20 PM »
Here is a Ford service bulletin from 1965 that explains that the main bearing block oiling hole to bearing hole misalignment is not an issue that needs to be fixed.

chris401

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #12 on: August 29, 2016, 10:23:09 PM »
Here is a Ford service bulletin from 1965 that explains that the main bearing block oiling hole to bearing hole misalignment is not an issue that needs to be fixed.
Been there from the start. 1958 332




cammerfe

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #13 on: August 29, 2016, 10:27:33 PM »
A little crude but they do the job. On the roller camshaft bearings was there any measured loss with the extra rotating mass or did friction loss balance out?

We used the sort of setscrews that turn in using an Allen wrench instead of the saw kerf, but otherwise just like that. I don't quite catch the 'extra rotating mass' reference. The main purpose was to provide an encircling surface with no bleed-off of oil at the cam journals.

The rollers were sourced from the FPP catalog. They are intended for the 385 series block but the cam journals are the same size for both engines. Opening the cam tunnel is only necessary due to the combined extra thickness of the rollers and the outer race. The race has no opening to oil the cam, of course, so all the oil flows around the outside of the race in the opened-up groove in the bulkheads. The solid cam is based on a steel blank so that worked just fine.

KS




« Last Edit: August 30, 2016, 11:22:06 AM by cammerfe »

chris401

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Re: FE Block Oil Mods
« Reply #14 on: August 29, 2016, 10:53:58 PM »
I saw a 429 the other day with roller bearings. I was curious if there was any measurable torque loss keeping all those small rollers rotating vs the friction drag of the camshaft riding on the oil and fixed bearings.