This is getting frustrating...new 445 reluctant to start.

[Barry_R]

You should have twice that much vacuum at idle.....

[Joe-JDC]

Any CJ header should fit the BBM heads.  They specifically built them to work with existing stock bolt holes.  When I port them, I use the Felpro FE header gasket, and the port fits the header gasket.   Joe-JDC

[My427stang]

Now the question is, who makes a decent set of headers that will fit the BBM exhaust port? I measured them and they are 2 inches tall by 1 7/16ths. I looked at a couple of makers websites and they are not specific. Hooker, for example, sell a set that they claim will fit a 428-390-352 4WD F100, but they are silent on the exhaust port they fit.

Hooker truck headers have the truck exhaust port, not the BBM.

In the end, the FPAs are likely the most affordable CJ ported header.  The other option would be to fully weld each tube of what you have externally, then port the inside to match.  That's a lot of labor though

On your vacuum, how is the carb adjusted now?  Also, did you set initial timing with the vacuum advance disconnected?  I agree, I have run 300 duration cams in small inch motors that made more vacuum.  Something isn't right

[Yellow Truck]

You should have twice that much vacuum at idle.....

I know, I just checked the video I took and it is actually 6 inches, still not enough. I think we need to do some work to get the idle right and it may correct the vacuum, but not having done this before I don't know how much it can come up with getting the idle screw/mixture balance. I do know that right now it sounds like I'm running an insanely lumpy cam, and I'm not, so there is much improvement to be had. I'm also getting bungs welded into the exhaust this week so I can get O2 values - everyone I've spoke to says that getting them from the exhaust tips is unreliable.

What she sounds like now:
https://youtu.be/2T1OnypJ8mU

What she sounded like after the first start:
https://youtu.be/DQ0Xmjho8Lc

[Yellow Truck]

Any CJ header should fit the BBM heads.  They specifically built them to work with existing stock bolt holes.  When I port them, I use the Felpro FE header gasket, and the port fits the header gasket.   Joe-JDC

Joe - I called Hedman and Hooker, Hooker never picked up but the Hedman street header support desk told me they don't do CJ style headers and put me over to their racing group. The guy there told me that there are NO stock CJ style headers for a late 60's pickup. The FPA headers look nice even if it is the wrong picture, but ceramic coated they are $1,000. I called Sanderson and their FF427 header (CJ style and ceramic coated) is $535, but it is a shorty - I suppose that is why it will fit - all the twisty bit is done in the exhaust and I'd have to have the front end of my exhaust re-done.

Ross - I would have to have new mating surfaces as well, just porting would remove all of the top, so that would also involve new machining. I'll discuss the cost of the exhaust re-route with my exhaust guy when I get him to put in the new bungs for the O2 sensor.

[My427stang]

Your current video doesn't sound too healthy, skip maybe, retarded timing maybe, maybe it's just the exhaust leak, but I'd be looking at all the plugs, maybe checking the plug wires for resistance, maybe even cup your hand over the carb and see if it idles up (vaccum leak)

As far as the headers, sorry to hear the challenge, but big heads need expensive headers on a truck.  I try to talk guys out of it and more over I really wish we could buy heads with an angled lip on the roof and floor of the exhaust port, then you could just grind away the side you didn't need.   

In your case, I'd be going with the FPA.   Price them uncoated and maybe do it locally, doubt it'll be much cheaper, but might save a little. In the end though, the cost will only burn once

Of course you could sell off the BBMs and build a set of D2s like the common folk do

BTW, how did you fog out your plate in the movie?  I wanted to do that on one I did without covering the plate, that is cool

[Joe-JDC]

On the FPA headers, I would get them un-coated, also.  I bought a set for my '55 T-Bird, and they don't fit the ports very well, so I had to grind on them to get them to fit the gasket shape, and port location.  The coating will probably strip out from the grinding, and now I wish I had gotten them un-coated.  I could get it done locally after I fitted them to the heads.  I also was a bit disappointed with the flow numbers, but don't have anything to compare them with.  My heads flow more without the headers, and that is unusual.  Most every exhaust port will pick up flow with a header bolted to it, especially long tube headers.  These didn't.  Joe-JDC

[Yellow Truck]

Ross, I'll start at the very first stage - In Youtube you first click on the blue person icon in the very top right, it opens a box and you pick "Creator Studio". You now can see the videos you've uploaded. Pick "edit" beside the one you are interested, and then above the video you will see "info and settings", "enhancements", "audio", etc. above the video. Pick "enhancements" and the video will run with a split down the middle, and to the right you will have "quick fixes", "filters", and "blurring effects". Pick "blurring effects", and pick "edit" beside "custom blurring" and you will be able to draw a box over your plate. It then follows the plate (you only have to catch it once).

[Yellow Truck]

Ross, I'll try some of those things tomorrow. I had checked most of the wires, but I didn't do it systematically. I will advance the ignition a little more, and I'll look for leaks. It did idle up a bit when I took the cap off the vacuum port to check the vacuum. The plugs are new, second new set.

I noticed that Nick asked what fuel I'm running - it is Shell 91 octane. There are some higher octane fuels around but they all have fairly high methanol content and the Shell product is pure petroleum.

Honestly I'm a little scared of it right now, but I did get about 12 miles on it including some brief WOT, and some stuck in traffic idling, without overheating or other bad behaviour, so I'm gaining confidence that it isn't going to blow up. I will say that it has less snap now than when we first started it - certainly at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle because WOT wasn't working at that point, and I think it is running well below its capability. It doesn't hesitate on initial acceleration or run badly under throttle, so I'll start gently testing idle mix etc.

[NIsaacs]

Sorry about the gas question, I re-read every post and noticed you answered that question on post 12.

The video indicates slow initial timing. I would kick it up to 16-18, that will bring the idle up several hundred rpm, so turn the idle screw back down back down and check your vacuum, it should be up about 11 or 12. It should shut off without run on now. If the engine likes the timing here, you might need to limit the mechanical advance some if your total is too much.

Are you running a carb spacer? If so, are you certain all gaskets match? Even if no spacer, be sure the carb to manifold gasket is right. If you have a vacuum leak, sometimes they are really hard to find. Do you have a power brake booster? If so, you might plug the line to eliminate that possibility (leak) while you are in the trouble shooting stage.

Nick

[Yellow Truck]

Nick - no worries - this thread has gotten a little long. I do have a spacer, and while I'm sure the gaskets are good I may put a little anaerobic sealant on the intake to spacer gasket. The intake has the least clean surface and I am also unlikely to remove it. The spacer to carb one I'm probably going to remove a few more times.

[My427stang]

Backing up a bit,  no new info, but after you mentioned systematic

I would slow this effort down and rule some things out

1 - Pull all plugs and read them
2 - Check all wires for resistance per foot using an Ohmmeter (should be all the same per foot, although different numbers) paying close attention to any wires that fed plugs that were different than the others
3 - Compression test (optional as plugs are out, but would be good to find a tight valve, etc)
4 - Check TDC on your balancer
5 - Check that the engine has a good ground and the distributor has a good ground
6 - Check initial timing vac advance disconnected (anything over 14 will run well if the balancer is right)
7 - Adjust idle a/f when hot and choke open for best vacuum

If you find something on any one step, note it, fix it, or look for a cause, then continue with the list.  If it still doesn't run well, we'll give you another list.  The key though is to continue with the list even if you find something, don't just yell "eureka" and see how it runs, we want to rule it all out and then allow a basic tune once you find the issue.

It seems like between the rain, the trip to the shop, and all the posts that this is turning into experimentation and as you said, we need to be systematic.

If after all that, if it still runs poorly, then we need to think about going inside, but if you execute this list in a calm, zen like manner, slow and methodically, you'll have some answers, or a well-running engine

[Yellow Truck]

Thank you Ross, I will do as you suggest. A few things to note - I have checked continuity from the intake to ground and found it presented zero ohms, so basically a dead short. I'll check the heads as well.

I was thinking about doing a compression test, but didn't really have a reason, now I do.

The balancer is new, I can't imagine it has shifted, but easy enough to get a rough check. Exact check will require I borrow a gauge.

Without fixing the exhaust leaks I've been told that doing O2 tests is pointless, so I'm looking into header options. Seems Sanderson FF427CJ shorty and FPA Tri-Y long tubes are the only options. Advantage of the shorty headers is I don't have to lift the engine (have to cut up the headers in there but they are not worth much - I think they are Flowtech so not worth saving), but I understand that shorty headers provide less torque. The FPA headers will also take at least 3 weeks to make.

[Lenz]

You should have twice that much vacuum at idle.....

I know, I just checked the video I took and it is actually 6 inches, still not enough. I think we need to do some work to get the idle right and it may correct the vacuum, but not having done this before I don't know how much it can come up with getting the idle screw/mixture balance. I do know that right now it sounds like I'm running an insanely lumpy cam, and I'm not, so there is much improvement to be had. I'm also getting bungs welded into the exhaust this week so I can get O2 values - everyone I've spoke to says that getting them from the exhaust tips is unreliable.

What she sounds like now:
https://youtu.be/2T1OnypJ8mU

What she sounded like after the first start:
https://youtu.be/DQ0Xmjho8Lc

First, let me say Ross' systematic approach will get you where you need to be, it is sound advice.  Second, if you only had 6 inches at the beginning and it sounds "cam'd" up way past what you have in there I'm beginning to think about your intake gasket to head match and the potential for vacuum loss where you can't test it.  The engine could be sealed up fine with no leaks and sucking air from the valley.

Apologies if this has been mentioned and I missed it, but it seems worth noting.

[Yellow Truck]

Len, I mentioned it a few posts back, but I did put an old Edlebrock on the engine when I was confused about where the starting problem lay, and with the Eddy it made 7 to 10 inches of vacuum, but it was running wildly rough. The Eddy had been on my old 410 and sitting on a shelf for over a year.

One other thing I mentioned earlier is that with the QFT it whistles like mad.