Variety of build questions

[Drew Pojedinec]

445 being built, aluminum BBM heads.

-Torque for spark plugs and intake?
I currently have the plugs torqued to 13 ft lbs, intake to 15 ft lbs

-Where to find oil fill cap for manifold?

-where to find a good inline 3/8 x 3/8 PCV for back of manifold?  (I currently have 3/8 barb from manifold)

-BJ/BK carbs or dual Quickfuels?
I like the idea of adjusting the QF's, but absolutely love the look of BJ/BK reproductions.  Just looking for any first had experience on this one.  From looking at previous builds, it just seems like folks have more trouble getting the Qf's tuned.

-Anything wrong with the idea of breaking in a new engine with a known good 4v carb and just blocking off the other 4v holes?

Appreciated as always any input.
Drew

[cjshaker]

I can't help with the other stuff, but I've used 2 sets of the reproduction BJ/BK carbs now, and I like them. Out of the box, they tend to be rich, but that's probably a good thing. I haven't had any issues with them, but I still like to take them apart and put in non-stick gaskets and give them a thorough cleaning and checking. I have not had any street driveability or WOT issues either. For hotter engines, they do need basic tuning principles applied, but for stockish builds they're pretty darn close out of the box.

I wouldn't be afraid of breaking an engine in using them both. Done it twice now and just the basic 1 1/4-1 1/2 turns out  on the idle mixture screws was good to go until after break-in. If you only used one carb, I'd probably use an IR temp gun to keep an eye on exhaust temps for possible distribution issues. I know they idle on one carb from the factory, but at 2000-2500 RPMs you may see some issues creep up.

Edit to add that when I used them for break-ins, I tied the carbs together so that they both opened about the same amount. I did that because I was afraid that with no load the 2nd carb would not be opening at all and I wanted to avoid distribution issues. I don't know if it was necessary, but that's how I did it.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Appreciate the input.

I figured on breaking the engine in with a QF 735 I already have, mounting it backwards in the forward position for distribution reasons.  I'm not hung up on the idea, but it might make the install go faster.

[ToddK]

I have just installed a pair of Survival's custom QFT 750's on my 406/462. To the untrained eye, they look very much like a factory set up. I haven't fired them up yet, so don't know how they are calibrated for my engine. Here are a few work in progress pics to show what they look like.

[blykins]

I don't think I've ever torqued a spark plug LOL.  I always put them on a 1/2" drive speed handle and snug them up.  Maybe my speed handle is calibrated.   

As for the intake bolts, I'd go 20-25 lb-ft. 

The Quick Fuels will have more tune-ability.  I think a lot of the issues with guys and the Quick Fuels is that they buy them straight from QFT with universal settings.  Our QFT carbs always come from us, after have been disassembled, washed in a sonic cleaner, then reassembled per engine specs.    The good thing about custom carbs is that you can get them in a variety of finishes, so essentially they can be made to look like the old Holleys.

I would be very leery about firing the engine with just the front carb on, as it could make it hard on the rear cylinders to pull fuel in.

[Drew Pojedinec]

I don't think I've ever torqued a spark plug LOL

5.4's taught me otherwise.
Thanks for the rest of the info Brent, Doug, and Todd, I appreciate it.

[blykins]

Some fasteners need torque specs......mains, rods, heads, cam bolt, etc. to get the proper stretch.  However, on others, it's often best to have a calibrated hand.  I have customers who try to bolt an oil pan on with two oil pan gaskets and a windage tray, and ask me for a torque spec....good way to find a leak. 

As for spark plugs, those horrid 5.4L modular engines are in a different realm than our beloved FE's.   They are plagued with not having enough threads in the heads and having a totally different style of plug. 

Torquing at 13 lb-ft is most likely close to a calibrated speed handle.  However, in the heat of battle, or changing plugs on the dyno, I have just never used a torque wrench.  It will also depend on whether you use a drop of oil on the threads, anti-seize, etc.  I used to use never-seize on the plugs, but then it can make it hard to read the plugs (heat range) so I quit doing that. 

[plovett]

I tighten my spark plugs by feel.  You can feel it bottom out and then you can feel the metal washer/gasket squish.  When the "squish" stops, I stop.

JMO,

paulie

[BH107]

I have just installed a pair of Survival's custom QFT 750's on my 406/462. To the untrained eye, they look very much like a factory set up. I haven't fired them up yet, so don't know how they are calibrated for my engine. Here are a few work in progress pics to show what they look like.

FYI, those aren't the QFT carbs. Barry used to build them from Holley parts like the ones you have until they would no longer sell him what he needed. Maybe that has changed and he went back to Holleys, but the QFT carbs do have a unique look. They still look great, but not quite as close to the BJ/BK as what you have.

Personally if it wasn't going to be an absolutely 100% correct looking engine I would probably go with the QFT just for the adjustability.

[427LX]

From what I have read on various forums the BJ/BK carbs are just about identical in jetting and air bleed sizing to the common Holley 1850...the older versions.
For you guys that run these on 500 HP FE engines how far do you end up from the stock jetting going richer or leaner?

[427LX]

I have just installed a pair of Survival's custom QFT 750's on my 406/462. To the untrained eye, they look very much like a factory set up. I haven't fired them up yet, so don't know how they are calibrated for my engine. Here are a few work in progress pics to show what they look like.

Are you going to run carb spacers under those at some point and if so open or 4 hole? Looks great!

[Joe-JDC]

Specification sheet with new Edelbrock heads will give 15# as the proper torque.  Ford uses that on their 5.0 HO specifications, also.  Unless otherwise stated in the plug box, use a small amount of anti-seize on long reach plugs going into aluminum heads to prevent seizure.  Some of the new plugs come with a coating that does not require the anti-seize, so read the instructions before installation.  Joe-JDC

[Drew Pojedinec]

Specification sheet with new Edelbrock heads will give 15# as the proper torque.  Ford uses that on their 5.0 HO specifications, also.  Unless otherwise stated in the plug box, use a small amount of anti-seize on long reach plugs going into aluminum heads to prevent seizure.  Some of the new plugs come with a coating that does not require the anti-seize, so read the instructions before installation.  Joe-JDC

Thank you very much, Joe.
I'm used to having specs for EVERY bolt at work (Might be why the service manuals are 40lbs).

[cjshaker]

From what I have read on various forums the BJ/BK carbs are just about identical in jetting and air bleed sizing to the common Holley 1850...the older versions.
For you guys that run these on 500 HP FE engines how far do you end up from the stock jetting going richer or leaner?

Had to jet 4 sizes down on my 497hp 427 (stock stroke, 4.250 bore).  It's still a bit rich down low but is right on in its powerband.
And with the 1850's you don't get the progressive linkage hook-up or the connected secondary caps, although they could probably be modified. You really want the progressive linkage on a street engine.

[ToddK]

Are you going to run carb spacers under those at some point and if so open or 4 hole? Looks great!

I will initially no spacer, but plan to try a 4 hole spacer at some stage.