Just got my Street Dominator back.

[Yellow Truck]

My friend had the threaded holes fitted with stainless steel threaded inserts and one seized and broken carb bolt taken out at the machine shop at his heavy diesel shop. Other than that it is undisturbed original condition. The rest of the project has been dragging but I should get the block and rotating assembly back next week. Now all I need are some heads (sigh).

The intake is dirty so it needs some cleaning, but the big question on which I need some guidance is what to do to prepare it. I know Jay and some others told me at the outset it was a good intake to make power, but it needed some grinding. This is my first build, but I want to do this myself. I need to know what to modify in the intake - I understand the plenum needs to be opened up, also there are shoulders just below the carb mounting flange.

What do I grind, how to I know when to stop, and frankly, what is the best tool for this job? I'll have to buy something. Very excited to have something to do again - the project has been sitting for a few weeks since I finished the fuel system. If it makes a difference I also bought a QFT 2 inch phenolic Super Sucker.

[Yellow Truck]

Sorry, should have mentioned the project is a 445 (Barry's Prison Break) with a 280/266 average duration - 230/236 duration @ .050 roller cam and a QFT SS 830.

[jayb]

If you happen to have a copy of my book, on page 110 there is a before and after shot of the plenum modifications for the Street Dominator.  The best thing to use for this is an air die grinder with the 1/4" chuck, then get yourself a carbide burr for aluminum to do most of the aluminum removal, and one of those cheap porting kits with the abrasive rolls to finish and smooth everything out. 

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=652&PARTPG=INLMK32

http://www.mcmaster.com/#4295a32/=z66t5z

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1060/overview/

[Yellow Truck]

Jay, I confess I have not. I was thinking about it when a friend gave me the Street Dominator, so my intake inquiries came to an end. The other reason is it costs $20 to have it mailed to Canada, so that winds up costing in total almost $80 Canadian.

[Yellow Truck]

Jay - I understand that the Street Dominator benefits from the same modifications as the Steetmaster, but the instructions I can find for that (on the Ford FE forum - you commented on the thread) are such low resolution I can 't read the text on the diagrams.

[jayb]

Yeah, that is a lot of money for a book.  I don't think I'd even buy a copy for that LOL!

If you look into the top of the plenum there are "ears" in each corner, up at the top.  All you have to do is grind those out of there and blend straight down into the plenum, so that it is square and open at the top.  Its really straightforward once you get into it.  There really isn't much of a chance to screw it up, so I'd suggest that you just get yourself a die grinder and go at it.

[Yellow Truck]

Jay,

Thanks again. It is wonderful how helpful you and many of the others on your forum are. It goes a long way to making an FE a viable hobby project for someone like me who has never done anything like this.

I'm sick of seeing SBCs in everything, but there is little other knowledge available on a local basis. Your forum is a huge help.

[jholmes217]

Hey Paul, if you live on the West side of Canada and make it down to the Seattle / Tacoma WA. area, I can get a copy of Jay's book and hold it for you until you make it down this way.  Don't worry, I already have a copy so I won't steal it!

[Yellow Truck]

Mr. Holmes,

Thanks for the offer, I do in fact get over there a few times a year, but I won't be back until January. I sincerely hope to have it on the engine and in the truck by then! It is snowing here today, so I missed my target of "before the snow flies", but I'd still like to get it done and tuned on a dyno before I store it for the winter.

Today I'll be tool shopping.

[shady]

snowing? shit, I need 6 more weeks of nice weather. I'm feeling the panic starting to settle in.

[Yellow Truck]

This is Alberta. Winter can come early. I don't want to over play it, it is supposed to be in the 60's again next week.

[Qikbbstang]

I disagree on Jay's advice to get a "carbide burr for aluminum" and while we're at it his advice to get an air die grinder. I have a feeling Jay having his on CNC machines leaves him out of the loop on the typical weekend shade-tree mechanic.  My experience is aluminum cutting carbide burr's are very aggressive making them difficult to hold on to. They will actually "bite" the aluminum and jerk the tool. I have a decent set of aluminum carbides and they're really hard to control and leave a course surface finish. I much more prefer to use standard carbide burrs with some lube to prevent the aluminum from melting and clogging the burr. I found WD 40 works OK, but used Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil works even better. Just oil the burr and area you are working on every 2-5 minutes and you should not clog the burr. I purposely leave the piles of machined aluminum around the work area and oil that as a reservoir for oil to just pass the burr into. There is almost no chance of the standard burr's grabbing/jerking and the finish is much nicer - in no time you can produce  surface finishes that are machine smooth.

Clogging is easy to prevent.  IF you do clog a burr with aluminum - take it to some oak hardwood aggressively to build up heat, that has worked for me.
     Air die-grinders for the typical weekend mechanic require a serious compressor, they are noisy and can get cold. Electric die-grinders have a much more stable power curve, are quiet and economical to buy.   

  Re: "The best thing to use for this is an air die grinder with the 1/4" chuck, then get yourself a carbide burr for aluminum to do most of the aluminum removal"

[Yellow Truck]

Qickbbstang,

Thanks, I will be using a Mikita electric die grinder. I don't have enough air at home to drive a tool. I have access to a shop but hate to make a mess in someone else's place.

My friend, who is advising me, also told me to keep it well oiled to avoid clogging. I'll be visiting the local industrial parts supplier this week. What is the difference between what you are suggesting and what Jay recommended? Is the one for aluminium a coarser bit?

[jayb]

That's right, the aluminum burr is coarser and tends to clog less.  And for what its worth, all the professional porters I know use the air tools.  But I think its because they are so cheap, and you can have multiple tools around with different cutters, and easily switch from one to the other.  For years the electric versions that BB described were the standards.

[427Fastback]

Air dremels have a throttle and you can control your speed...Electric is just a switch and in my opinion is usually far to fast for anything..

Aluminum burrs are single cut (one direction)only like a lathe file.Reg burs are cut in both directions like a standard file..Aluminum burrs do tend to be far more aggressive looking and can wreck stuff far faster.