Holley Hydramat

[Nightmist66]

Update:

I decided to try a final mockup attempt at installing it in the old tank.

Make sure you use duct tape around the opening


It has to go in this way(won't go in any other way)



The new RockAuto special:


When I tried to remove the drain plug it came with, it wouldn't budge. So, I resorted to heat, but all that did was loosen the soldered joint at the drain fitting and drop into the tank. Has anyone else had this problem? Well, now I decided to do things my way, so I ordered a 6AN bung and had it tigged on.


Next, I washed the tank out with soap and water and let it dry out in the sun while I ran into town for paint on the exterior. When I got back it was nice and dry and I started mixing this to seal the inside of the tank. I used this on the old one, works very well.


From the last time I did it, I made this little seal plate out of sheet metal and rough cut it into a circle and filed it smooth. I used an old tank seal and lock ring to complete it.



After that was done, I was ready to paint the outside of the tank. This is what I used-


Here it is after the aluminum. Still need to apply the clear coat.


So, still need to clear the tank as I mentioned, mount the new pump, and install the Hydramat in new tank. One thing I'm still not sure on is the Hydramat sitting in the bottom of the tank. In the instructions, they show using magnets on each leg to make it stay on the bottom of the tank. I don't see how it would work to put it into the tank, because the legs are smashed togther on install, which means the magnets would want to stick to each other and then figure out some way to separate them once inside the tank. Not to mention if they want to stick to the roof of the tank on install. I am using Aeroquip socketless hose between the pickup and the Hydramat. The hose is very stiff. I don't  think the Hydramat will lift off the bottom of the tank with that. Also, I was wondering if the fuel saturation will be enough to weigh down the legs and keep them from moving. Hmmmm, I'll have to think on that one.

[Bolted to Floor]

Jared, Have you made a dry run on the install to the old tank to see if the magnets will go in and stick to the bottom of the tank then slide into position? Have you put the Hydramat into the test tank with gasoline to see if the legs would float? Food for thought looking in from the outside.

[Nightmist66]

The small magnets I used during mockup to hold it still in the tank, I'm  sure will stick to each other and/or the roof of the tank on install by watching the  Hydramat go in. I guess I didn't think to try the fuel test in the old tank but probably will now. I have a few gallons of the Cam2 I drained out. I better not spill it, there goes $7.50/gallon. It looks like grape Kool Aid though. I will see if it wants to float and/or move around with a little agitation to the tank. Thanks for the suggestion.

[FElony]

I have a stupid question, from also having a couple cars with caved tanks. Couldn't you just pressurized the tank and pop it out again?

[Nightmist66]

I may have been able to, but it was the original tank as far as I know. It really did need to be replaced anyway.

[Nightmist66]

Last update for install:

Today I finished the install. Last weekend I didn't have a whole lotta time, but I got the new Fuel pump mounted.




I have been thinking long and hard about a way to keep the Hydramat on the bottom of the tank. Well, I think I finally got it. I saw there was a flat triangular shape on the end of each leg with a small hole in it where they want you to mount their magnets. Well, I decided I may be able to cut some 1/4" flat stock steel in that shape and drill a hole and use a button head allen screw from the bottom with a nylon insert lock nut on top. That's what I did. The screws were 8-32 thread.





Here's the install procedure: I started by using masking tape around the opening this time to save the new paint.





Remember to have the float assy. disconnected from the pickup and start it



As soon as it's in, I stuck the rod back in the pickup and tightened the set screw. I also removed the tape around the opening at this time. It's a very tight squeeze, but it just barely goes.


At this point I realized my o ring seal was laying next to me on the ground. No sweat, it easily slips over the outside lip of the pickup assy., whew!

Just like that it's in.



Here's the modified tank drain.


All hooked up-


Time to dump the grape Kool-Aid back in


No leaks! The new pump is whisper quiet, no joke. I had exactly three gallons to dump back in and the fuel gauge read dead on. Plus! Fuel pressure stayed constant at about 6psi. Started it, warmed it up and took it around the block real quick, seems fine so far. I will get more fuel in it do a little fine tuning, and run it low on fuel when I feel comfortable to see how well the Hydramat really works.

[Dumpling]

Impressive effort and all, but I think I saw above that your new tank came from Rockauto, in Illinois?

I had a new stainless tank, with baffled sump and pump installed, made by them.  Including the pump, price totalled $500.  I had to provide them with an old Fairlane tank to take measurements from.  They should have those templates still on record. Apparently I got a discount for providing them with their first Fairlane tank to measure.

How many hours, fittings, paint, chemicals, and miscellaneous parts and supplies do you have into this project?  The stainless tank dropped right in, no problem, and no issues with fuel starvation.

{Edit}  my bad, Rock VALLEY in Stillman, Illinois made my tank.  Sorry.  They did do a quality job though.  Carry on...

[Nightmist66]

Impressive effort and all, but I think I saw above that your new tank came from Rockauto, in Illinois?

I had a new stainless tank, with baffled sump and pump installed, made by them.  Including the pump, price totalled $500.  I had to provide them with an old Fairlane tank to take measurements from.  They should have those templates still on record. Apparently I got a discount for providing them with their first Fairlane tank to measure.

How many hours, fittings, paint, chemicals, and miscellaneous parts and supplies do you have into this project?  The stainless tank dropped right in, no problem, and no issues with fuel starvation.

{Edit}  my bad, Rock VALLEY in Stillman, Illinois made my tank.  Sorry.  They did do a quality job though.  Carry on...

The tank was $160, the Hydramat was (cough) $300, and $30-$40 in misc. items. I had almost all fittings and clamps to begin with. I have more hours than I care to think about. I wasn't aware of that place you mentioned at the time and I wanted this Hydramat so bad after seeing it at PRI. Yes, I am in Illinois, pretty far north. Are you also from IL?

[FElony]

I may have been able to, but it was the original tank as far as I know. It really did need to be replaced anyway.

OK, I gotcha. Anyway, nice work. I wish I could do nice work.

[Nightmist66]

I may have been able to, but it was the original tank as far as I know. It really did need to be replaced anyway.

OK, I gotcha. Anyway, nice work. I wish I could do nice work.

Thank you, I appreciate it. I just fumble along, really.

[Dumpling]

The tank was $160, the Hydramat was (cough) $300, and $30-$40 in misc. items. I had almost all fittings and clamps to begin with. I have more hours than I care to think about. I wasn't aware of that place you mentioned at the time and I wanted this Hydramat so bad after seeing it at PRI. Yes, I am in Illinois, pretty far north. Are you also from IL?
[/quote]

[cjshaker]

Great write-up and super clean job, Jared. Nicely done! That Valspar really looks nice, almost like a ceramic coating.

You mentioned that the Holley pump was whisper quiet. Did you mount it on rubber bushings or is it solid? I hate noisey electric pumps and a friend has a REALLY noisey older Holley pump in a Jeep that he'd like to replace, so I'd be interested in trying one if it really is quiet.

[Nightmist66]

Great write-up and super clean job, Jared. Nicely done! That Valspar really looks nice, almost like a ceramic coating.

You mentioned that the Holley pump was whisper quiet. Did you mount it on rubber bushings or is it solid? I hate noisey electric pumps and a friend has a REALLY noisey older Holley pump in a Jeep that he'd like to replace, so I'd be interested in trying one if it really is quiet.

Thanks Doug!

 I am not happy with the way the Valspar clear coat came out, there are blotches in it and not as smooth as I would like.The new pump is mounted the same as the old one. It is solid mountd to an aluminum bracket I made which is also solid mounted to the chassis. The pump I replaced was one of the old Holley blue pumps from the 70s I think. We modified it by putting it in a Bridgeport with a ball end mill and bored it to 1/2" and installed a Moroso 19lb spring. It is essentially a "black" pump now. That thing was noisy, that's for sure! This new pump is really quiet. Also, the new HP 150 pump uses a gerotor design instead of the traditional vane and rotor. I took it apart just to see what kind of guts it had. Surprisingly small internals for the output of the pump. It also has a very nice "thimble" shaped mesh screen on the inlet. Very nice piece. I hope it has longevity besides the quiet sound. I will see if I can get comparison videos made for the two pumps(sound).

[Nightmist66]

Here are two short clips of the pumps running(engine off).

Don't mind the first half of the first video, I was playing with the features of the new electric water temp gauge after finishing install.

Old blue pump


New HP150 pump

[cjshaker]

Wow, Jared, thanks for those clips. That thing really is quiet!