Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, carb plate delete, and general intake ?'s

[Jackal]

I can't believe how inexpensive these are, esp. considering all the machined surfaces and complexity of the FE manifolds. Are there any downsides to this intake for a street driven 390 with stock heads? I assume this would set me up nicely for some Edy heads down the road too.

I can't get that carb plate off of there fast enough. IIRC, this intake sits about 1" higher than stock. Do Edelbrock's manifold height specs include the height of this 1" thick plate, or just the cast manifold itself?

Is my only real option for an oil fill be a new set of valve covers? I really want to keep the gold Thunderbird covers if possible. I read that BlueThunder manifolds have the oil fill port machined out, but everything I see on them shows 427 and 428 applications. I also assume they would be quite a bit more expensive.

Do I want to run an insulator place between the intake and carb after I do the swap or is it a moot point after the carb plate delete and switch to al.?

Thanks!

[Joe-JDC]

I don't understand your post, or the question.  There is no RPM air gap that can be used on an FE unless you are talking about a cleveland intake on Jay's adapter???  Or a 8V that uses  Edelbrock carburetors?   Joe-JDC

[Jackal]

I see didn't realize I was limited to the standard RPM. Now I see why it costs more than the Air Gap for the 460.

Same questions though, is this a good choice for an Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, shorty headers with H pipe, and stock or Eddy heads? What are my options for the oil fill with this intake, or does it sounds like another intake would be more suited to this application? I don't have much more than another inch over current setup before I have to buy a teardrop hood. I don't want to give up much if any low end.

[jholmes217]

The Edelbrock RPM Air Gap for the FE is a dual quad manifold.

[Joe-JDC]

No oil fill on RPM intake, although it is a decent intake for 390 with stock heads in a car with the mentioned 600 carb.  Stock intakes from before '66 will have the oil fill tube in manifold, and there are some available all along in aluminum but the price will be more than an RPM.  You have to consider the PCV system if you don't have a road draft tube, and valve covers for PCV system.  The best way would be to look for a Ford intake in aluminum is you must have the oil fill tube.  Joe-JDC

[Jackal]

Thank you for the replies and for putting up with my ignorance guys, I'll get up to speed soon.

I believe my "PCV" line runs from the rear of the block to the carb plate, and I'm guessing that this is what you are referring to as the draft tube? I don't recall seeing a PCV valve on this setup...should I have one? Would I not be able to run this "draft tube" from the rear of the block up to the back side of my Edelbrock 1406 carb? If so, that just leaves the oil fill problem. I guess the easiest way of dealing with that is some valve covers. So much for keeping "the look". :\ This brings up another question though. The AC / Oil "cap" is stuffed with a steel mesh for venting purposes, as evidenced by some oil mist on the pass. side plug wires and valve cover. Will I have to do anything special with venting things with "modern" valve covers? For that matter, would I change up the whole PCV setup and block off the draft tube or?

Are carb spacer / isolators still advisable with this intake and carb combo to deal with heat soaked starting issues?

The rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper and deeper.

[jayb]

Aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat, so it would still be advisable to use a heat insulating spacer between the intake and the carb, to keep as much heat out of the carb as possible.

[Nightmist66]

If you want a good heat spacer, use a wooden one(they are about the best for heat resistance). I have the 1/2" Jegs spacer on mine, which appears to be a repackaged Edelbrock. I have had bad experiences with the cheapo plastic spacers. The one I had was warped like a banana right out of the package, plus it wouldn't line up correctly with the mounting studs. I would recommend either the Edelbrock or Jegs house brand wooden spacers, they have excellent fit and finish. Moroso may be another good one to look into. I checked it with a straight edge and it was perfect. You get what you pay for.

[Jackal]

Thanks for the info! Wood? Really?

[cjshaker]

Wood is a terrible heat conductor, so it's perfect for an isolator. It may sound odd for use on an engine, but it works.

[Heo]

Yes Wood is perfekt i make My own spacers out of plywood