I learned it in circle track engines. Back in the '70s I built some engines in Larry Phillip's shop, 496 ci BBs. Everything had a fat top ring back then, so we left out the 2nd and drilled holes in the 2nd groove at an angle to cool the piston tops. Also, I made scrapers to divert what windage I could into the piston itself instead of on the walls. There was some oil consumption, but not enough to cause detonation.
Later I used it in drag racing where a certain piston was specified that had the wide rings and did the same thing with the scraper. With e Napier .040 and 3mm rings we have today, the friction is quite a lot lower. My L2291s unfortunately have the fat rings. Money is really tight, being disabled now, but really it may just be best to upgrade my pistons. For primarily drag running, low friction is very good. For street, a more moderate approach is needed. I like to file the 2nd ring wider than the top to use blow-by/ crankcase pressure to keep the top ring land seated as long as possible as the piston changes direction. The lands are the biggest part of ring seal, the contact with the bore is much less important as long as it is concentric and taper is minimal. Excess taper will cause the ring to spin in the bore and wear the bore and land surfaces. With the Napiers, I would assure that the bores are bore concentric and that the rings are not springing away from the lands and use as little friction as you can. Divert windage as best you can to the insides of the pistons to cool them.
Back in the old days, with Larry it made a big difference in power.
