Ford FE c6 help !

[bartlett]

I took the car out for the first time and it seemed to work great. At the end of the day started to act up. The shift from second to third. right when it shifts to third it rev's freely and then hits third. no slipping ect. just a free rev. it does this at any rpm and it does this if in D or shifted by hand. 

I removed the pan and filter to find nothing of concern. fluild looked good and only a little silver in the pan.

Im not sure what controls the 2nd to third shift. I have not adjusted the band yet or messed with the servo.

any help? thanks

[Drew Pojedinec]

Second gear, band is holding, servo engaged, hydraulic pressure to direct drum
Shifts into third, servo releases via spring pressure, band is not holding, high/rev drum engages hydraulically.

Valve body routes fluid for all of this.  (there is a 2-3 shift valve in the valve body)

I'd adjust the band and then go from there.

good luck
Drew

[bartlett]

Thanks ....
 

Ill adjust the band to spec and I will pull the valve body off to inspect it. Maybe a spring ect broke in it. Its not intermittent So I'm betting its stuck or broke. 

[Drew Pojedinec]

Look at the bright side, it is better to have a flare than a tie up.
More than likely the band is releasing too soon so the assembly freewheels for a minute before the hydraulic pressure for third gear hits.

Of course I could be totally wrong... just what I've observed with my own transmissions.

[bartlett]

Adjusted the band,cleaned the valve body,replaced the vm,add refilled with new type f....zoro change...fml....

[Drew Pojedinec]

Did you have this transmission before or did you obtain it rebuilt?
Are you 100% sure the fluid level is perfect?
Did you set the band by the Ford spec?  If so, is this a performance c6 build?  (I set the band via Trans-go's method as the Ford spec left me with a 2-3 flare on my builds)

trans go instructions:
Snug adjustment screw with a short wrench. Notice that the output shaft or driveshaft will not turn backwards by hand with the screw tightened. (Wheels off the ground, trans in neutral and engine off).Loosen screw slowly until you can just turn the output shaft or driveshaft backwards by hand. Then loosen 1/4 turn more and tighten locknut.

Bartlett, I'm no expert,  I was hoping someone else would chime in with genius wisdom, just trying to help... hold fast, you'll figure it out.
I would think that a flare is bad shift timing, either a delay in the fluid pressure rise for the high clutches, or a premature band release.

[NIsaacs]

I would check the modulator for a vacuum leak at/in the line or the diaphragm may have ruptured.

Nick

[Drew Pojedinec]

What did you figure out Bartlett?

[bartlett]

Not much ! lol .... I'm balls deep and waiting on a how to dvd and a making a clutch tool....

So far the only thing I have found to even look slightly bad is the one way bearing, When I pulled that section off about 4-5 rollers fell right out. bad ? dont know.
The Band looked very good. all the copper thrust washers look very good and the steels and clutch disks in the very back look very good. I havent pulled the packs apart yet or the pump.   
 My plan is to order a HD rebuild kit,a R ratio servo and a new reverse valve body.

[ScotiaFE]

Which servo and lever do you have?
You can just change the lever and get even better action.
They made something like 8 or 9 different levers and each one would apply a different force.
The stock R servo used a E lever I think and the H servo used a D lever "?" and the F lever is actually
too much lever for a stock R servo and could crack the case.

[Drew Pojedinec]

The one way clutch rollers always do that (at least the original style ones do).

I've heard mixed reviews and opinion on using an R Servo.  Didn't know you were tearing it all down like that!  good luck.  Get some emery cloth and make it all perfect.

Let us know how it all goes together.

[bartlett]

the trans has a H servo and a E lever

 Found a good amount of color in the fluid in the servo housing...

[TimeWarpF100]

Not much ! lol .... I'm balls deep and waiting on a how to dvd and a making a clutch tool....

So far the only thing I have found to even look slightly bad is the one way bearing, When I pulled that section off about 4-5 rollers fell right out. bad ? dont know.
The Band looked very good. all the copper thrust washers look very good and the steels and clutch disks in the very back look very good. I havent pulled the packs apart yet or the pump.   
 My plan is to order a HD rebuild kit,a R ratio servo and a new reverse valve body.

A simple tool I made when I had my CJ c-6 apart

Using a cheap 35.00 drill press to use to put pressure on tool

[bartlett]

getting it tore down further I did find more problems.  some of the clutches had the hatching wore off.

On the other pack I found both plates broken... .

Not sure any of this will cause a 3 gear flare or not .....

[Drew Pojedinec]

Direct drum will have just smooth clutches.  If that is they drum you are in, totally normal.

Looks like someone used a bottom plate on the top of that last drum tho to get an extra clutch in.  Generally that is frowned upon and having the drum machined to hold more clutches + a full thickness top plate is a better idea.
If you need some parts, (like a full thickness top plate) drop me a line.  I've got 4-5 parts c6's laying around just for this reason.