427 Build for '67 Galaxie

[jayb]

I got the email below from a guy who wants to build a 427 for a 67 Galaxie.  I'm going to encourage him to join the forum, but for now I thought I'd post his questions here and let him see some opinions, mine included - Jay

Hello, I'm a Ford Fe fan. I built a mild 390 because I couldn't afford to any mods to my 66 Ford truck and knew an Fe block would drop right in. I did that about 10 years ago and she's been been doing ever since, knock on wood. Been a fan of the on demand torque ever since. My next project looks to be a 2 door 67 Ford Galaxie. I want to build a 427 for it. I searched around found that it's very popular to stroke them out. But, that's not what I want to do. I'm asking for some recommendations on a few things, please. I've a few questions. First, let me start with my goal in mind for the engine build/car usage. I want the car to be a fun weekend toy that'll be dependable, sound good, and have good driveability and possibly make some short road trips and not be too wild or extreme for a toy. Neighborhood of 450 hp is what I'm shooting for. Maybe a trip to the drag strip will happen. It'll have power steering, a/c, and have a 4 speed toploader with 3:73 gears in the rear. I was looking at the compression about 10:1 to just run pump gas. MSD 6AL ignition with an MSD street billet distributor. I think I'll contact Cam Research for a custom ground to match my preference, and 750ish carb. I want to stay close to stock dimensions as close a possible, just a little more power than factory rated. I found that the 4.25 bore is real common with the choice of pistons available. I'm fine with that because that doesn't stray very far from what I want. I just don't want the 4.25 stroke with the 6.700 inch rod to make it a 482 C.I.D. I've heard that the 482 is actually easier on the cylinder walls because the rod angularity isn't as harsh as the 427. Scat makes a complete and balanced 427 rotating assy. I'm also aware that the cam profile will play a big part. But, I can specify to keep that not too aggressive. My questions are:
 
1. Is that true about the cylinder wall pressure?
 
2. I would like to use Edelbrock (more in my price range) heads and don't intend to change the valve sizes to a bigger size. Jegs part number: 350-60079. Will leaving them alone and not porting them keep it tame enough for my preference? Or, will porting them be a better option on the 427?
 
3. If a 482 is a better option because of the cylinder wall pressure, then will leaving the heads as is be best to not get too wild?

[jayb]

To answer your questions:

- The rod angle you'd get with a 4.25" stroker crank and 6.700" rod is greater than the rod angle you have with a factory 427 setup (3.78" stroke, 6.488" rod).  Max rod angles are 18.58 degrees and 16.93 degrees, respectively.  Whoever told you that the stroker setup would be easier on the cylinder walls because of the rod angle doesn't know what they're talking about.

-  For your application, leaving the Edelbrock heads alone will be fine, at least with respect to the ports.  You might consider a valve spring change, depending on the cam you end up with.

I'd have a few more comments.  First, I don't understand why you are concerned about cylinder wall pressure from the reciprocating assembly.  There is no FE stroke/rod length combination available that will cause you problems in that area, with any FE block.  I wouldn't worry about any of that.  Engines split cylinder walls because they are overbored and the walls are thin, plus excessive cylinder pressure (lots of horsepower).  With your horsepower goals you aren't at risk of this, provided the block you use isn't real thin.

Next, do you have a 427 block, or are you going to buy one?  If not, prepare to spend around $3K for a decent factory block, or $4K+ for an aftermarket block.  Sounds from your information like you may be funds limited on this project; you'd be a lot better off financially by building a 390 stroker (445 cubic inch) than a stock stroke 427, and you'd easily make your horsepower/torque target.

Finally, 450 HP is easily do-able with a stock stroke 427, the Edelbrock heads, mild cam, etc.  Compression of 10:1 will be fine on the street, assuming the cam is matched to the compression ratio you are running.

Good luck on the project - Jay

[Drew Pojedinec]

Next, do you have a 427 block, or are you going to buy one?  If not, prepare to spend around $3K for a decent factory block, or $4K+ for an aftermarket block.  Sounds from your information like you may be funds limited on this project; you'd be a lot better off financially by building a 390 stroker (445 cubic inch) than a stock stroke 427, and you'd easily make your horsepower/torque target.

Yeah, I don't understand the reluctance to go with a 390 stroker for your intended goals.  To be totally honest, I think in a street car a 445 would *feel* stronger than a 427 all else being the same at the typical under 4500rpm street car usage.  Spend that extra money on things like an overdrive or stronger transmission/driveshaft/rear end/axles or something that would make the car more drivable.

[ScotiaFE]

On the Top Loader Trans, you will want a wide ratio.
A wide ratio big in big out is even better, but a small in and small out will do ok with street tires.

[turbohunter]

I think I understand where this gentleman is coming from.
It's the romantic notion of the 427 in your car.
Sometimes you have a vision in your head of THE FE and that's what you want.
It doesn't make a difference that a 445 would be stronger and cheaper.
Of course I could be full of crap,  :)but if he were to join the forum and spell it out, that would be cool.

[machoneman]

Next, do you have a 427 block, or are you going to buy one?  If not, prepare to spend around $3K for a decent factory block, or $4K+ for an aftermarket block.  Sounds from your information like you may be funds limited on this project; you'd be a lot better off financially by building a 390 stroker (445 cubic inch) than a stock stroke 427, and you'd easily make your horsepower/torque target.

Yeah, I don't understand the reluctance to go with a 390 stroker for your intended goals.  To be totally honest, I think in a street car a 445 would *feel* stronger than a 427 all else being the same at the typical under 4500rpm street car usage.  Spend that extra money on things like an overdrive or stronger transmission/driveshaft/rear end/axles or something that would make the car more drivable.

3X on a 390 stroker for $ savings and meeting your hp/driving goals. Btw, simply LIE (hah!) and tell everyone it's a stock 390!

[Katz427]

Man! Do I relate to this! I have a friend that has a 427 1967 galaxie! Best I know it has been stored for over 30 years. The car really is nice for the age and length of storage. The gent who owns it will not sell it! Like most stories like this the kids will sell it quick...after the funeral.
I want to put my acquired tunnelport into my 1966 galaxie. The engine picked up from ..you guessed it ..an estate sale. It is the magic of a 427!  Daytona! Lemans! A.J Foyt ... David Pearson.... Gas Rhonda. The dream! ....later comes reality.

[MeanGene]

Hard to beat the 445 setup for a street build, kind of hard to justify spending a lot of money on 427 parts if you're not going to work it hard- although a cast crank and some good used LeMans rods would be interesting). I don't get the idea of buying a new 3.78 assembly when the 4.25 is going to be pretty close in price? Why give up inches when they are basically free?

[Drew Pojedinec]

Heh, lemme get some jb weld and a few bolt heads, we'll stickem on the side of the block.
Impress your friends with your low buck 427!

[Barry_R]

Another option for guys chasing the "romance" of that 427 number.
We did one a while ago with a .060 over 352 and a 4.125 stroke - gets you to "that number"...
We also added cross bolts.
He ain't fooling nobody with the deal - he just really wanted a 427...

[bsprowl]

You can get a 427 using a 4.00 in bore and a 4.25 crank.

[Lenz]

Ah, the romance for sure.  My '64 was "assembled" to look the part of a factory lightweight without any attempt to fool anybody.  It still wears the gold 427 badges on the fenders even though it's a 445.  If I had gone .040" over instead of .030" it would be a 447 with the 4.25 crank.  A little bit of careful trimming and filling on the cast badges and some equally skilled trimming and filling in on 427 decals can replace the 2 with a 4, thus reducing the lie to a mere 2 cubes.

Then again, it is an "X" code so even a 390 doesn't belong, or the top loader for that matter .  Sure is fun to drive though, that 445 gets it done.  Sure, I'd have loved to have a genie 427 in there, but the truth is I'm glad I went this route.  It all comes down to what you intend to do with the car.

[1967 XR7 GT]

Does everyone have something against a large bore short stroke motor (427) ?  I am one of the guys chasing the "romance" of that 427 number,  for me it's not just the number but an actual 427.  And I've seen some of the engine builders call the stock stroke crank a short stroke crank...

An easy 450 to 500 HP from a nice 427 is enough from me...

[Drew Pojedinec]

If the fella just wants a 427, he should get a 427.  Obviously if he just wants a good cruiser engine of a particular power level,  well there are lotsa ways to skin that cat, and no need for a tremendous amount of overkill.
Kinda like, building a 450hp engine with a mild cam and buying the top of the line $1500 rockers when the factory adjustables that you have on your shelf would do the job just fine.  If it's what you want, do it, but it most certainly isn't needed.

[ScotiaFE]

The romance is the 427 "sideoiler".
When you talk with even car guys and mention the SO you can get
puzzled looks and whaaat.
Then if you go 427 Top Oiler, I use top oiler vs centre oiler and yes spelt in the correct Queens English. lol
You can get the deer in head light look, "huuun"
The man wants a 427 Oiler.
Is it not everyone's dream to have an Oiler? Be it Top, Centre or Side
Well son you have to step up and pay the price. jmho