2 intake gaskets 1 side

[cjshaker]

Interesting, Ross. Without a doubt, 3M makes some of the best products. Whether it's sealers, sandpaper or a million other products, they're first rate. I've just always used actual gasket adhesives on engines. The weatherstrip adhesive works great on lots of things, just never tried it on gaskets.

[My427stang]

Check this out, this is new BTW but will make us feel better.   It's been renamed LOL Additional link says good for oil and water too .



http://3mauto.com/3m-super-weatherstrip-and-gasket-adhesive-08002-yellow.html

Tastes great AND less filling!  Would love to say that I knew it was renamed, but I didn't...I called the 3M tech line and they said same formula as the 8001 but different package size and cap design for this use

[Lenz]

It's all good, gotta chime in with Permatex (interestingly enough, yellow too ) part #80060, commonly known as "97B".  Stuff works awesome.  When I need to know the gasket is still where I placed it after I'm past the visual this stuff has never let me down. Funny how you find something that really works and it becomes the mainstay when you need "something extra".

[blykins]

The FE really doesn't have quite the issues that the small blocks have.   With a SBF, the bolts are vertically oriented, so they try to wedge the intake downward, which makes the gaskets want to shift around.   In an FE with the bolts normal to the intake flange, it helps in keeping gaskets in the spots they need to be in.

With all of that being said, I still glue each and every intake gasket down, not only to keep them from squirming, but as a sealant between the gasket and the head and the gasket and the intake.  FE intake gaskets are always "flooded", so anything extra is a plus, IMO.   I have used the red tacky gasket sealant from Permatex....it's like a contact cement, and I've used Right Stuff and just sat the intake down on the gaskets and left it over night. 

It seems like we all do the same thing, we just have different products that we use. 

[Saltshaker]

Ok, it did not work! Yes, the 3m did but there is a issue either with the intake the head or as suggested the dowel pins....it leaked in the same place on #8.
Jon
Ps; 3m STICKS....40 min with a razor blade to remove it!
Jon

[cjshaker]

Hmm, seems it may also have been mentioned that it sounds like an issue with the intake or head, or both. Even the block could be adding to the problem. Measurements are your friend.

[fe66comet]

I have been using 3M weather strip adhesive for oil gaskets since I worked at the machine shop in the eighties, never found anything better yet. Everyone I have talked to swears by it for oil gaskets, then silicone for water and at junctions like the corners of intake ends where the cork or rubber meets the head.

[Saltshaker]

Took the intake off , 7 of the ports the gasket had been sealed to the intske and again #8 was clean and that is where it was leaking. I have another intake from a friend and he never had a problem with it, thinking of bolting it to one side with a gasket to see if I have the same problem...
Jon

[Joe-JDC]

After reading everyone's ideas, there is one fact that we sometimes overlook about sealers.  Ross mentioned contact cement, and that is exactly what it needs to be to hold the gasket in place.  The gasket is supposed to do the sealing, not the cement/glue.  The material used in the gasket should be the medium that prevents leaks, not a sealant that is added, even though they do prevent leaks when used properly.  I have done head and intake changes on dyno tests where we used the same gaskets multiple times without re-glueing, or adding rtv.  The gasket material was the sealant.  If the gasket doesn't break down, and is flat, it will seal.  We actually glued the gasket to the heads, and then using white grease on the gasket, installed and removed several intake manifolds without a leak, either of water or vacuum.  Holding the gasket in place is important if it is to last long term, and contact cement is actually better than rtv for that purpose.  I have had one CJ with a Print-O-Seal gasket hold for 20+ years, but that is the exception.  It is all in preparation, and chemicals used to seal it up.  Joe-JDC

[Saltshaker]

Hopefully this is now fixed, the head had a .018 taper  on the intake side...new valve stem seals and the RPM intake had to get milled to be sq and straight. Will be putting it back together this wknd and hopefully the end of oil consumption.
Jon

[fe66comet]

Glad it worked out for you Jon, at least to know you have everything strait and all squared up. It is always also good to know what you have and not have to scrounge for replacement parts that you are not sure are good to begin with.

[KMcCullah]

Hopefully this is now fixed, the head had a .018 taper  on the intake side...new valve stem seals and the RPM intake had to get milled to be sq and straight. Will be putting it back together this wknd and hopefully the end of oil consumption.
Jon

With all of the milling that's been done now the intake will want to sit down a bit lower. Make sure your head gasket tabs aren't holding the intake up in a false location. You might have to drill the manifold bolt holes +1/32 too.

Edit: And for sealing nirvana try some Caterpillar cement 5H2471 if you can find it. My local Cat dealer says it crosses to Loctite 30540. And be careful with the fumes, You'll be duck hunting with a rake!

[cjshaker]

And be careful with the fumes, You'll be duck hunting with a rake!

Lmao!!