Author Topic: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3  (Read 19711 times)

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drdano

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #15 on: August 04, 2014, 10:49:47 AM »
the "Right Stuff" comes in caulk tubes too.  Just sayin' ;)

+1, the pressurized tubes sometimes dont always work as expected.  My two local parts houses don't shelf stock it, but can have me a caulk tube of it within a few hours from their warehouses. 

cammerfe

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #16 on: August 04, 2014, 11:22:03 AM »
FWIW, Roush's Prototype Shop, the place the cup engines are built, uses an epoxy as a sealer when installing NPT plugs in a block. They DON'T leak.
I'm hurtin' for ya!
KS

mmason

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #17 on: August 04, 2014, 01:12:05 PM »
The Right Stuff comes in grey.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex--the-right-stuff--1-minute-gasket--grey-detail

Also would there be enough room to use a video scope when the engine is running?
« Last Edit: August 04, 2014, 01:56:38 PM by mmason »
Michael Mason

Barry_R

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #18 on: August 04, 2014, 03:33:39 PM »
Ouch
Boy have I been there.
I had some silicone that was still unhardened after it ran on the dyno - I had never even thought of checking that after a couple days...there is a definite but unlisted shelf life.

I have a customer who came up with a near brilliant idea for finding rear of block leaks.  I had already driven +/- 4 hours each way to his home twice trying to identify a leak on an otherwise good running original engine.  And I failed both times.  Once I R&R'd the intake.  The second time I tried a pan gasket/rear seal.  Damn thing still leaked.  He ended up spraying FOOT POWDER on the back of the block & running it.  Found a seeping block plug - tight but still wicking.  Not sure if he cured it, but he probably does not think much of me after two failed efforts....  but the spray powder idea was great.

You might need to hang the flywheel and a stock stick bell on the back of the block so you can fire it up to see what's going on.

machoneman

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #19 on: August 04, 2014, 04:25:03 PM »
Now that's a great idea Barry! a Stick 'wheel and watch it spin.
Bob Maag

thatdarncat

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #20 on: August 04, 2014, 04:31:57 PM »
Having faith that you'll solve the leak I'll point out there's a test day at Grove Creek Sat Aug 9th.
Kevin Rolph

1967 Cougar Drag Car ( under constuction )
1966 7 litre Galaxie
1966 Country Squire 390
1966 Cyclone GT 390
1968 Torino GT 390
1972 Gran Torino wagon
1978 Lincoln Mk V

cjetmech

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #21 on: August 04, 2014, 04:47:49 PM »
Similar to Barry's Idea , I've used the white aerosol developer that comes in a dye penetrant kit to find leaks. It might be good in that area because you can just spray it up in there once its clean and cover a lot of hard to reach spots. I hope you don't get to discouraged, its gotta be super tough doin all this mostly by yourself.
67 Fairlane GT 428
93 Mustang Coupe 331

XR7

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #22 on: August 04, 2014, 06:17:24 PM »
No need to start it. The trans has to come off first. Take the flywheel off too. Just prime the engine and see where it is coming from. With a dry sump you should be able to spin the pulley with a air ratchet or drill or whatever works to get pressure. With oil pressure the oil is flowing and will show where the leak is without the engine running, especially if it is that big of a leak!

I would suspect a galley plug at the back of the block, but who knows. I now check for leaks back there after fighting this a long time ago. Now every engine I assemble gets primed on the engine stand, without the intake on, and with all the rocker assembly installed. The last engine I did had too much oil to the lifters and had a leak out the back pressure relief valve plug. Found both problems right away doing this.

It is very odd though, that you ran it and had no issues on the dyno. Something happened somewhere for some reason between the dyno and install in the car. I am sure you will find it but it does suck... I hate going backwards, but have been there and done that. Just have to get it done. The schedule is a moving target! I do want to see you get some track time before drag week though. Very important to prove out all the systems, do some testing and tuning to get the car's suspension working, I am sure the engine will run hard, but getting it "hooked up" is a job in itself.
68 Cougar XR7 GT street legal, 9.47@144.53, 3603# at the line, 487 HR center oiler, single carb, Jerico 4 speed, 10.5 tires, stock(er) suspension, all steel full interior

Qikbbstang

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Years ago I received a case of sealants, lapping compounds, glues, epoxy's etc after I threw a fit to the packager that their silicone failed to set on my boats 460. I say packager because I think silicones are mostly made by one company.  Not sure why but dated virgin tubes of silicone can fail to set---it happened to me.
   It's my understanding that water/moisture set silicone off
« Last Edit: August 04, 2014, 11:14:34 PM by Qikbbstang »

BH107

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #24 on: August 05, 2014, 12:14:41 PM »
That was painful to read...Hope things go better for you this week!

TimeWarpF100

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #25 on: August 06, 2014, 12:53:05 AM »
One thing I do not miss every week is a update on your drag week posts.

Sorry to hear about the oil leak.

I also use nothing but the TA-31 Motorcraft sealant it was designed for the 7.3L Diesel
Imagine that the first time since I have owned this 7.3 (143k miles) it does not leak a drop of oil. Harder than a FE to not leak . .

Talking about expiration dates my tube says 5/22/13   Still good though!

After using it I threw the right stuff in the trash
« Last Edit: August 06, 2014, 12:55:23 AM by TimeWarpF100 »

machoneman

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #26 on: August 06, 2014, 06:29:08 AM »
SWAG?

Since the engine is sealed up so well due to the vacuum system, maybe....plumb a fitting of sorts into one orifice and pump in shop air at a regulated low pressure. The pressurized block should then show (maybe?) an air leak at the source that you may hear and then trace. Likely though Jay you have already considered something like this.   
Bob Maag

Cyclone03

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #27 on: August 08, 2014, 11:25:46 AM »
Jay, Do you have a quick update on the Valdez in your garage?
Lance H

jayb

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #28 on: August 08, 2014, 09:22:40 PM »
The "Valdez" LOL! I'll have an update on Sunday...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

babybolt

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Re: The Road to Drag Week 2014 - August 3
« Reply #29 on: August 09, 2014, 07:04:38 PM »
The really high end aluminum blocks don't use NPT plugs anymore.  Like Nascar and IRL, F1, etc.  From what I've seen, some of them use plugs with a o-ring and in other cases they have a tapered section ahead of the straight (non-taped) threads.  Don't know what the names of these new fangled plugs are.  Heck its not uncommon for steel NPT plugs to leak in the back of an iron block.  Some of the Nascar guys used to bolt on a steel plate over top of the cam freeze plug.