Removing pilot bearing for a roller set-up...

[cjshaker]

I need to remove my pilot bearing in my crank in preparation for installing a roller bearing. Usually I'll just knock it out, but this is a pretty new bronze bearing so I'd like to save it if possible, so I was wondering if you guys had any tricks for safely removing them without destroying it. I tried a slide hammer with a small bolt and washer on one end to try and hook it, but that didn't work.

And since this is the first time I'll be installing the rollerized set I was also wondering if there were any tricks to installing it. I've had bronze ones that were a tad loose and would "ping" them to get them tight. Obviously I can't do that with the roller set-up, so I was wondering if you guys used Loctite or anything to make sure they didn't move?

[blykins]

Pack the cavity full of grease.  Take a wood/plastic/metal dowel that fits the ID of the bushing, then start whacking it with a hammer.  As the bushing moves out, fill cavity back up with grease.  It will hydraulic itself out. 

Roller bearings fit pretty snug.  Just tap them in.

[turbohunter]

I found that stuffing it with string cheese is the perfect consistency and doesn't leave a mess.
Then a round whatever to smack into the hole.

[drdano]

Does the cheese taste any better afterwards?   

[cjshaker]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. The crank is installed so I didn't want to take a chance in damaging the thrust bearing. LarryK (Battlestar Galactic) gave me the suggestion to just use a tap. A 3/4" tap went right in and pushed it out. Next time I need to think of these things BEFORE the engine is done...lol

[cjshaker]

I found that stuffing it with string cheese is the perfect consistency and doesn't leave a mess.
Then a round whatever to smack into the hole.

Mark, I honestly believe that that is the first....and probably ONLY time I will ever see string cheese being used on an FE build
I always am amazed, and sometimes amused, at peoples ideas. That one is a classic

[Lenz]

So then, as always, much to be learned here on the forum.  The job is best accomplished by grabbing a 3/4" tap and coating it with a mixture of grease and Precious string cheese. 

At this point, I would think if you just showed the bushing what you were going to do it would clench and fall right out..........

Sorry guys, couldn't resist..  Like Doug I am often amazed at the info that's out there and how quickly it gets shared to the benefit of the forum.  The mention of Larry and His wagon reminded me of Beaver springs, he put on a great show.

[cjshaker]

So then, as always, much to be learned here on the forum.  The job is best accomplished by grabbing a 3/4" tap and coating it with a mixture of grease and Precious string cheese. 

At this point, I would think if you just showed the bushing what you were going to do it would clench and fall right out..........

Len, just to be clear, I just ran the tap in and when it bottomed on the crank hole it pushed the bushing out. I didn't use grease....or string cheese

[jayb]

I thought you were trying to save the pilot bushing.  Didn't the tap gall it up?

FWIW I always use the grease method, although Snap-On makes a puller (expensive!) that has three small fingers that go inside the hole of the pilot bearing, and attaches to a slide hammer to pull it out.

I like the string cheese idea, and I could feed it to the dog afterwards - num, num...   

[cjshaker]

I thought you were trying to save the pilot bushing.  Didn't the tap gall it up?

I just reset my priorities...lol What's a $15 bushing compared to an all iron 427MR

[drdano]

Snap-On makes a puller (expensive!) that has three small fingers that go inside the hole of the pilot bearing, and attaches to a slide hammer to pull it out.

HarborCrap also makes one that uses three fingers and a socket to pull the pilot out.  I had to grind the end of the fingers down slightly to get it into the pilot, but it works fine for the single time I used it.  I'm sure the next time it will break though...

[turbohunter]

I have that Snapon puller kit.
It works well but as drdano said "mucho dinero".
Haven't used it on a really stuck bushing yet.
Did you guys see that link on the other FE site for the ebay puller? Kinda cute.
Not expensive.
Was thinkin' that's the kind of tool I like. One that some guy in his shop thought about and made.

[bn69stang]

How much did the cheese cost , lol  gotta love all the beer can engineering .. Bud

[HolmanMoodyStroppeVet]

I have 2 pilot bushing pullers, all of the tool trucks sell them,,,I use a Snap On, and also a Mac.   You pick the correct pair of jaws, to fit the ID radius, tighten the center screw,,,,then tighten a large nut, that straddles a U shaped brace, tighten the nut, and pull it out smooth

These are a big help when changing a clutch in the car too.

To re install, I have turned bar stock drivers, to keep it square.  I don't like to pound on the hard on the back of the crank, to chisel a bearing out,,it can hurt the thrust bearing, so on install, it is nice, to spread the force, and load, on a nice driver, or, turned piece of stock,

Keep it nice and square too,,,I have seen a few guys bugger things up, by tapping the new one in crooked.

It is also nice, to check for burrs, dings, dents,,,when the bearing is out, and dress or emory away any flaws,

Be easy on the re install.  I use 2,3 sometimes 4, guide pins, screwed into the scatter shield, or bell housing, to align the trans, and a trans jack,,and I have the best luck, aligning the clutch disc, as you tighten the pressure plate, using an actual toploader input shaft.  One tip there is,,,just before you snug the hat,,push the input shaft up until it stops, then down until it stops, and eye ball that tolerance. Then lift the input shaft, half that dimension, and it should be dead center.  Then tighten and torque the hat in steps.

The trans will just slide straight in with no problems

I say this, because guys who force a trans in, or make the mistake, of starting the bolts, to tighten the trans into place, can cock it, break the pilot bearing, or an ear on a trans. Seen it more than a few times.

One last nice thing to do is this.  Bolt the bellhousing on first, mount an indicator on the flywheel, and check how centered the register for the trans is.  The big hole, that the transmissions front bearing retainer fits to.  Line boring a block, or other tolerance issues,  can change this from dead  center. If you check it, great, if that is off, I have seen over 030....you end up making the front bearing wear fast, the trans can get noisy,you can wear any pilot busing out fast, the clutch can chatter, and it can pop out of gear.  So check it if you can, and if you need to fix that, there are methods we can share.

Sounds fun,,,nice job

[fe66comet]

Run a tap in the bushing, them bottom a bult in it, it will pull itself our.