Harland Sharp roler tip rocker arms

[Lenz]

So, as I progress I've found that I'm really good at "exceeding" my budget on the 445. 

I'm looking at and am pretty well sold on going with HS rockers (part S4006B) and reusing the balance of my factory rocker shaft assembly (which is in like new condition).  Heads are Edelbrock performer RPM 60069's (hydraulic flat tappet max lift .600" without a spring change) and cam is Comp cams XE274HD-10 .562 int/.565 ex total lift at 1.76 factory rocker ratio.

Any experience (good or bad) with HS rockers or issues with the above setup?

The cam and lifters are near new and straight out of my 390.  I'd prefer buying entire rocker assemblies but I refer to my budget comment above.  Car is being built mainly for "aggressive" street duty.

[afret]

They are a good choice.  On some rocker shafts, new HS rockers might have to be honed to fit.  If needed, it's simple to do with a brake hone and it doesn't take much.

The HS guys recommend that 0-2 threads of the adjuster are showing on the bottom side of the rocker when adjusted so you need to have the right length pushrods.

http://www.harlandsharp.com/instructions/4006NBK%20webpage.pdf

[sumfoo1]

http://www.harlandsharp.com/shaft/4006nb.jpg


Just the rockers or the end stands too?

[Lenz]

Thanks for the tips, links and input.  Yeah, end stands are superior to factory, I'm looking to be solid to start with.  One of the things I liked about the HS rockers is that it appears I can tear down and upgrade without buying a whole new setup.

[cjshaker]

You can't go wrong with Harland Sharp rockers on anything short of an all out race engine needing Race T&D rockers. I had to hone a couple sets when I used them, but never a problem with any of them in many miles. I would  try to adhere to the couple threads showing like HS recommends, especially on aluminum rockers. Less stress at the adjuster hole in the rocker. I don't think it's as crucial on factory iron rockers, but still a good practice for geometry etc.

I have been running HD shafts, iron rockers, without end stands on my Highboy for 20 years without a problem also. With mild street cams, a good shaft will hold up well if iron stands are used. My cam is fairly mild at .550 lift, 227@.050 duration, and sees 5500-5700 max rpms. Anything more aggressive and I would step up to end stands also.

[plovett]

I really like the Harland Sharps rockers and I think you will, too.   I have the bushed rockers with solid spacers and Dove stands.  The Dove stands have the end stands tied into the cylinder head bolts so there are two more fasteners holding it all down on each head. 

I run a solid flat tappet with about 405 lbs open pressure and turn about 7000 rpm.  I've had my Harland Sharps for about 10 years and I love 'em.

For a long time it seemed like Harland Sharp rockers for the FE got lost in the shuffle.   On the lower end there were factory type rockers from Ford and similar ones from Crane, and Isky.  Then there was Erson and then T&D on the higher end.  It seemed like no one knew about the Harland Sharps.  Hopefully that is changing.   The Precision Oil Pumps rockers get overlooked a lot as well.

JMO,
 
paulie

[Lenz]

Great input all, appreciated . 

My cam duration at .050" is 230 int/236 ex, so things should fall in line.  I will also state that the two threads exposed on the adjuster theme is well noted, I'll make sure I pay attention to that.  Gonna need pushrods anyway, as I found no less than 3 different lengths on teardown.  Still need to figure the ideal length on those, but I should be able to draw that info from a mock up of the valve train once I get to that point.