Hey Faron! Coil question

[rockittsled]

Or anybody.  I was reading about FEtorino's trip on lateral-g.net and came across

 http://bzerob2.wordpress.com/2013/02/12/more-duraspark-notes-2/

would the TFI coil really work for the Duraspark ignition?  Also, on one of the other duraspark pages, he has specs for recurving the dist, what do you think of his info?

[drdano]

Depends on the coil specifics, but my understanding is this: You can run a TFI coil (or MSD Blaster 2 or variant) with a duraspark I "red connector" (California) ignition.  I don't think you'd want to run one with the normal "blue connector" duraspark II box. 

[rockittsled]

what would be the difference that would make the "red" better than the others

[jmlay]

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/983654-duraspark-blue-vs-red-question.html

[drdano]

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/983654-duraspark-blue-vs-red-question.html

This will provide some info.  http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/504320-conversion-electronic-ignition-input-please.html

[Faron]

Yes the tfi coil works great , the problem is There is conflicting data about using it with a Reg Duraspark Box , I wouldnt  , I would use a 4 pin GM Module or a MSD style or equiv brand for a Box, all those have no problem with Battery voltage on the + side of the coil , as for the Mrg Andvance curve , I use those springs quite a bit , BUT others as well , the stated all in by 22-2800 is also true , BUT not always, it depends on the limiter , 

[rockittsled]

Ok, I am just looking for a nice clean signal through the primary ignition sys and a big jolt to the spark plug within the secondary sys without spending vast amounts of money and was hoping to get a little more BANG (pun intended) for the money.  Do you have a recommendation for a better coil, I am already using a brass terminal cap and rotor and will get a Motorcraft ign mod (blue grommet)

[JimNolan]

I run a duraspark on my 406. I needed the 5 degree timing retard. Re-curving the mechanical is easy and it's perfect if you'll measure the slot correctly after altering. The coil: I used a oil filled OEM unit that had to be mounted upright. I did this mainly because I didn't care if it misfired at 6500 rpm. Been on there two years and haven't burnt out my ignition module like a lot do by experimenting. I figured being broke down 500 miles from home wasn't worth the extra voltage a whiz bang high output coil could give me.

[rockittsled]

I run a duraspark on my 406. I needed the 5 degree timing retard. Re-curving the mechanical is easy and it's perfect if you'll measure the slot correctly after altering. The coil: I used a oil filled OEM unit that had to be mounted upright. I did this mainly because I didn't care if it misfired at 6500 rpm. Been on there two years and haven't burnt out my ignition module like a lot do by experimenting. I figured being broke down 500 miles from home wasn't worth the extra voltage a whiz bang high output coil could give me.

Yeah, I understand.  I am looking at stuff that someone else has already tried and figured out what works and what doesn't.  The TFI coil seems like it has the higher voltage, but if it req. a "no pink resistor wire" and a red grommet module, then that might wait until the wiring harness gets replaced.  Painless Wiring setup requires a ballast resistor to be wired in, which might be the time to do something like that, instead of the ballast resistor. Oh well, more research

[Faron]

Unless your compression is above 10.5-1 and you run plug gaps past .045 the Stock coil will be all you need , run good spiral core plug wires ( I run Taylor's but most out there are good IF they are a spiral core ) there is NO difference in Power opening plug gaps beyond .035-.045, and lots of problems that can be caused by it. again using a GM 4 terminal Module works great , here is a link that has been around a long time http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm , oh and one more thing in theory recurving your Dist is a you can do it yourself, BUT , if you like to stand over a engine Fan , with a light and rev the engine to past 3000, fine , but for what I charge its a lot safer ( this posted for all the Just do it yourself guys ) , and it is true that most Can do it , BUT loose a small clip , or any small part while doing it yourself and you will also get the experience of trying to FIND those parts (  in a reasonable amount of time )
  , ALSO , replacing a Gear is a job into its self. there is LOTS more to what I do than bend a tab and replace the springs , but for those that are Thinking of doing it yourself , I just caution you , later all 

[rgb]

Faron, excellent summary above.

While the stock HEI will operate with "any" coil...  it bypasses at a specific current level.

Any coil kicking the HEI into saturation mode implies massive heat generation INSIDE the HEI chip?
(generally, solid state devices DO NOT like heat...)

What is the optimum coil primary resistance using a stock HEI, ~13.5VDC, for runtime performance?

Do the EXPENSIVE HiPo HEI 4 pin (Accel, MSD, Pertronix, etc.) limit the current at a higher level? (worth ever buying?)

[Faron]

I have NOT seen any difference in the so called Hi po Modules , that said I would stay away fom the really inexpesive ( under 10.00) ones as well , Also Heat is NOT an issue if the module is mounted off engine ( the factory in the dist was for packaging NOT longevity ) there is also Heat sinks ( that I sell ) for those that want them , but if you just mount it away from heat on any metal spot it will be fine, its small easy to hide and replace if needed (a good set of points costs more !) 

[abyars]

Just an idea for HEI mounting.  I've been running a HEI in my car for 8 years.  It is a rebuilt points unit modified with a  MSD pick-up under the cap.  The HEI module is mounted to the bottom of the dizzy via two drilled and tapped holes.  It's a pain to change but as Faron said you can mount these things to most anything metal and they'll live.

[drdano]

Yeah, I understand.  I am looking at stuff that someone else has already tried and figured out what works and what doesn't.  The TFI coil seems like it has the higher voltage, but if it req. a "no pink resistor wire" and a red grommet module, then that might wait until the wiring harness gets replaced.  Painless Wiring setup requires a ballast resistor to be wired in, which might be the time to do something like that, instead of the ballast resistor. Oh well, more research

I've been running a red box, Blaster 2 coil with a dizzy that Faron recurved for me on my 428 for close to 2 years now.  It is stable to 6000rpm and I would do the setup again.  On mine, access to 12v was easy as disconnecting the pink resistor wire connector and plugging in direct to the 12v in front of it under my dash. 

[abyars]

That's good to know abuot the "red" Duraspark module.  I thought the "blue" one was the one to have.  I'm just about to swap a points engine to Duraspark.