windage tray- screened or louvered?

[galaxastang]

Hey guys, thoughts on which works best for 445 stroker build. Clearance? Canton? Thanks
  Trying to gather the parts for winter build.

[jayb]

I don't believe that the screened pans really work; I think they are a gimmick.  I always use a factory Ford or Moroso louvered pan.

[galaxastang]

Is there clearance for the stroker kit, I heard somewhere the moroso doesn't clear?

[Barry_R]

I've used both - and none.
From what I can tell there is zero or near zero difference on the dyno.
There is likely a difference on track as far as oil control is concerned.
I generally use the screen - in part because it easily clears the various strokers and pickups, and is easily bent & tweaked if and when needed.
The older Moroso louvered ones would not clear - but they have been revised after I let them know and I think they fit fine now.

[jayb]

You do have to be careful with the Moroso trays on clearance.  There are three steel strips, about 1" wide each, that hold the main louvered tray in place, and in many cases I have cut those, bent the tray out a little to clear the reciprocating assembly, and then welded some small tabs back in to make the strips connect again.

[Ted]

I lean towards the screened windage trays as the screens themselves are directional.  You might double check that the directional screens are actually installed in the right orientation as it would be easy for those to be installed backwards.

[XR7]

I have used the old FORD windage tray on 428 builds, as well as screened and louvered Canton trays. On my recent "personal" build, I used a Canton louvered tray. I used a 4.25 SCAT crank and H beam rods with L19 bolts. I did have clearance issues with the rod bolts. I ended up prying the tray up a tad slightly to give it about .060 clearance on the offending bolts. I didn't have to cut and weld or anything. I tore the engine down after a season of racing and there were no "witness marks" on the tray... so I didn't have any issues there. The bearings looked perfect except for the thrust wore a little more than I would have liked...

With the Canton screen tray, I haven't had to mess with them at all to clear the same stroker combo. I've never used the Moroso louvered tray, but had heard it won't work with stroker cranks, just 3.78 and 3.98 stroke cranks.

Here is the Canton louvered tray I used.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Canton+Racing+Products/074/20-938P/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710886689&catargetid=1784164562&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CJHI4KazlLsCFQllfgodcVIALA

[Barry_R]

Just tried a new Moroso tray (I'd like to use them if possible because I am WD with Moroso).  Still no dice on clearance - Willie needed to break the spot welds, reform the tray for clearance, then butt weld the tabs.  Back to Canton screens I go.

[jayb]

I just cut the tabs and weld in some pieces to make them longer, Barry.  I've never really had to reform the tray, even with my 4.6" stroker engine.  In my opinion its worth the trouble; I just can't believe that the "one way screens" really work to keep oil from splashing back onto the crank, while helping to strip it off.

[Faron]

I know What Blair uses on his stuff

[My427stang]

On a front sump FE, I'd rather spend the extra dough on a good trap-door / baffled pan nowadays.  I consider the stock Ford tray a "pan lid" not a tray, and I think a good baffled pan keeps the oil away from the crank.

With that being said, my stock Ford one is still in mine, even with a Canton pan because I figured it wouldn't hurt anyone being there and it was left over from the original 427 build

I did drill a few big holes on the drivers side of mine thinking that it might peel off some oil but I am not sure it does anything

[Bad Byrd]

Generally on items like this there isnt an real world data to decide which is better. I am sure either one them are pretty limited on the HP gains between the two of them. When I did my build we went with a trapped door Cantor pan and a screened  tray................at the end of the day what did I really gain..................my guess is 1 to 5 HP at best.

[cammerfe]

I had a discussion with Jack Roush some years ago at which time he opined that there is more power to be found in dealing with oil management than with any other single component in a modern race engine.

KS

[galaxastang]

Thanks guys great info.  I'm using the engine for mostly street, with a few trips to the track, so I'm not sure it would be beneficial.   
I'm thinking a good baffled pan would be the best route. Put the $75 else wear. Thanks again

[cjshaker]

I suspect Jack was talking about crank scrapers, which makes sense....especially in a 8000+rpm Cup motor.

I always use a stock tray and baffle the pan. I think baffling does more good than anything on a street engine. A tray won't show any improvement on a dyno, but on a drag car I think its a good idea to keep oil from totally flooding the rear seal and getting up into the crank. Even a baffled pan will let some oil flow to the back under constant hard acceleration. I talked to Jim Kuntz once about it and he uses screened ones, but I never asked him the details of why.

IMO, a deep pan with baffles and a tray is always a good idea on any FE, but sometimes road clearance issues negate the use of a deep pan.