360 FE build

[Colorado75F100]

Couple of questions for you guys.  So currently right now in my 75 F100 is a stock 360 FE.  I've been considering a few different options regarding "refreshing" the motor etc.  Im new to Ford classics as I mainly have built Mopar BB stroker motors etc.  Since this is a truck and not a muscle/race car.  Im looking for a little more ponys then she's got.  Transmission is a NP435 4 speed and it's 4wd.  I picked up a set of 360 FE heads super cheap and thought maybe I would do a port-job, smooth out the bowls myself, etc.  But after reading how poor that they flow, other than cleaning them up, ill not really be gaining anything.  The truck currently has a 2 b-carb and I bought a 4 barrel cast iron (correct for the year) stock intake.  The truck does have factory Manifolds,  etc.  My original plan was to do the heads, make sure that the seats/valve etc were all good, slap on the 4 b intake, 600 cfm carb and shorty headers.  Maybe a little bit bigger bump stick and upgraded rockers, etc.  I see that I can get some eldlebrock "entry " model heads for 1399.99 each, Manifold to match etc.  But, im wondering if I could find say a nice set of 428 heads, would they work on a 360?  I have seen some say that only 390 heads will work but others say so will 428 heads.   If the 428 heads would work, I could do those with a aluminum intake, 600carb, shorty headers and little bigger bump-stick and I think I'd be happy.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

[My427stang]

Most truck headers are designed for a D2TE-AA, C8AE-H, or a few other low port heads.  So I'd likely stick with the 360 heads.  Most FE heads will work, but you need to talk casting numbers, because in many cases, 360 are 390 are 428 heads. 

A modern multi-angle valve job, 45 degree seats, and a bowl blend will do wonders and do just fine with headers and your iron intake.

I'd prefer long tubes if you are willing, and a 2.5 inch exhaust with good performing mufflers and a H pipe, do the head cleanup, and your 4 barrel 600 and you are running pretty well on the cheap.  I forget when the F100s went to throttle cable, but if 75 is still mechanical linkage, make sure you are getting full throttle after the swap

Next would be a distributor recurve, and it'd run pretty well.

After that, I'd likely go inside and add some cubes. 390, 416, etc, but they can run real well with just the changes listed.

[Colorado75F100]

Thank you very much!  Yeah, not looking to build a hotrod you know.  Very good information!

[DuckRyder]

Ross is spot on.

If you start looking at heads remember there are 3 different exhaust bolt patterns and truck headers may only have the 8 bolt pattern.

Also if you elect to change the cam keep in mind you're only working with 8.2:1 (or is is 8.1:1) compression.

Unless your heads or any you buy need minimal work my experience is that you'll spend nearly as much reconditioning a set as new heads, and nearly the same is true a stroker rotating assembly and factory 390 parts with decent pistons unless you already have serviceable ones...

[mbrunson427]

What I like to do in this situation is bolt on a set of early hipo heads. Like mentioned, your compression is way down and those will help you get some compression back, the combustion chambers are very small. They don't flow as well as some other FE heads, but they do plenty well for what you're asking for.

I see you're in Colorado. I think we have a set of these in the mezzanine of the shop that we were going to sell to someone and they backed out. I haven't looked at them in years, but as I remember they had valves and springs on them.

We're in Longmont.

[Colorado75F100]

So the heads casting are the C8AE-11.  I think my best option is to gasket port and some bowl work, replacement of the 2b intake to a 4b intake, shorty headers (because its a 4wd) and enjoy it.  Its a 4 speed np435,.  Rebuild the suspension and enjoy it.  If the motor goes then maybe replace with a 390 or build it up to a 390.  At least doing these few things should make it a pleasure to drive.  I have really enjoyed all the input and help guys!
Last question,  where the smog hose connects to the Manifolds, isn't there a threaded plug you can use to plug them up?
Dan

[FrozenMerc]

I had a '76 F250 with a factory 4bbl 390 that burned a head gasket, so I used that as an excuse to rebuild the motor and add a few performance tweaks to it while I was at it.  My recipe is below.  This was a fairly cheap rebuild, but it turned out to be a very strong runner afterwords.  It had no trouble tugging my 10,000 lb 24' enclosed trailer down the road. 

390 + .030 bore.
Stock Ford 4 bbl Intake and Iron Heads
3 angle valve job and I smoothed the ports out - no significant material removal. 
600 CFM Holley
Howard's Dual Pattern Cam
9.5:1 compression
Hooker Long Tube Headers and 2.5" dual exhaust.

[Colorado75F100]

Very nice!

[GerryP]

...where the smog hose connects to the Manifolds, isn't there a threaded plug you can use to plug them up?
Dan

The smog tube is screwed into the cylinder head exhaust port.  You can leave them be, or you can plug them.  I used regular brass NPT plugs on mine but there is a specific plug but mine never failed.

[Colorado75F100]

Thanks!