Sorry, another question about header bolts.

[3goats]

66 Comet, 390, 4 speed, fpa headers I did some work on my engine, put the engine back in then I put the headers in. Well, I couldn't get quite a few header bolts back in. I was thinking if I left the bell and tranny on I could pull the engine enough to get the bolts on. I was planning to leave the engine on the hoist as I put the bolts in, and the engine still in the engine bay. I really don't want tp pull the engine completely out because it's only about 3-4 bolts on each side. Does that make sense??? I took my engine to get it tuned and the carb set but the guy said the header bolts have to be in for the work. The headers don;t leak as far as I know and they sound fine. Well, anyway.....  Also thank you to all that helped me get the parts I needed and get my engine back together, it runs great!

[1964Fastback]

What kind of heads are on it?  More specifically, how many header bolts per head?  If it's the plain vanilla type with 8 bolts per head, I would definitely shoot for getting them all in before any leaks develop.  Others will probably have suggestions on bolt type and brands that can make the job easier (12 point or 5/16", etc).

Pat

[3goats]

Trick Flow, I think there are 12 bolts per head. It;s the bolts on the bottom that are hard to get to.  I just looked a pic of the heads, seem to be 16 per side

[GerryP]

You need just two bolts per exhaust port.  Headers for 16-bolt heads have all 16 holes to give you options on securing the header.  Headers for eight-bolt heads use only two bolts per port.  It can be quite a daunting task to get bolts in all 16 holes especially when it's not necessary.

[1964Fastback]

I agree - two per port is fine!

Pat

[3goats]

I guess that shop i went to for a tun-up and adjustments was trying to get more money. I'll check around to see where else I can bring it. I can't hear any leaks on the headers. Thanks

[mygasser]

if any of the ports only have 1 bolt they 'will' leak at some point in the future. i've 'slotted' all 4 port flanges before so all the bottom bolts can be started then slip the header down onto them.
neil.

[My427stang]

Just because I am that guy...two opposing bolts are good enough.

I do try to use all of them, but sometimes the header is designed in a way you can't get there, even on the stand

[MeanGene]

Before you worked on it, did your engine have the original heads? The shock tower (or "GT") heads have their own bolt pattern than the rest, lower ports and only bottom bolts on the two end cylinders, and the two end upper bolts don not line up with the center ones. There are actually two different sets of Fairlane / Comet Hookers, one for the GT type heads and another for the Cobra Jet style. I have a '69 Ranchero GT with the 390IP engine, and the previous owner had "installed" the CJ type type headers, using some hacking techniques to get them bolted up, and they do NOT fit well. The CJ style also has some tubes going under the A-arms, so ground clearance is a little iffy. I don't think they make the CJ-type headers any more. And they are NOT the race headers, they are the small-tube style

[3goats]

Yes, it had c8ae-h heads with stock exhaust manifold, now trick flow with FPA headers.

[3goats]

if any of the ports only have 1 bolt they 'will' leak at some point in the future. i've 'slotted' all 4 port flanges before so all the bottom bolts can be started then slip the header down onto them.
neil.

       A couple ports have 1 upper bolt with at least a side bolt, most have upper and 2 side bolts. 2 ports upper, lower and a side.

[Rory428]

I have TFS heads and FPA headers on my 428. Although using 2 bolts per port may well be adequate, I always try to get in as many bolts as possible, did the same with my 428 CJ 16 bolt heads. I have never had any 16 bolt FE headers that I was able to get every single bolt into, as there is usually at least 1 tube that blocks a bolt hole in the header flange. That said, I can usually get at least 13 or 14 bolts in per head, and I can also say, that doing so, I have never had a header gasket leak on a FE in almost 50 years. And that was because I installed  a set of 428 CJ heads on my 66 Fairlane GTA 390, that had Cyclone headers made for the 14 bolt "GT" heads, and at that time I was not aware of the exhaust port height differences. But if you do choose to use 2 bolts per port, make sure that they are opposite from each other. As in, the 2 vertical bolts, or the 2 angled horizontal bolts per port.

[galaxiex]

I have TFS heads and Hooker Super Comp 6130 headers for my 66 Galaxie.

I was able to get all 32 bolts in, 16 per side.
A couple of tubes needed minor massaging to get all the bolts in.

It was a little tricky, but not terrible, to get them all in.

[My427stang]

if any of the ports only have 1 bolt they 'will' leak at some point in the future. i've 'slotted' all 4 port flanges before so all the bottom bolts can be started then slip the header down onto them.
neil.

       A couple ports have 1 upper bolt with at least a side bolt, most have upper and 2 side bolts. 2 ports upper, lower and a side.

Not really the greatest setup with an upper and a side. I'd really recommend making every port have 2 opposing bolts as a minimum.

So back to your original question, no issue at all raising the engine up, go for it.  If you are 100% sure there are no leaks now, put a little anti-seize on the new bolts, and tighten them, then retighten all the rest.  It may not be a fun day, but you can lift the whole front of the engine a bit, or one motor mount at a time and rock it, multiple options. 

If I did it, on the pairs that weren't opposing bolts, I think I might loosen those, then tighten evenly.  Depends how sure I was that there was no leak, but honestly, they all probably loosened up after a few heat cycles anyway, likely don't need to. So, when you get the other ones in, evenly tighten them all again

Some tips, in no specific order. 
1 - Don't accept failure, there is a way to get to the bolts
2 - Find as many 7/16 wrenches as you can, they all have different angles.  Don't use crappy wrenches that will slip.
3 - A good ratchet and flex socket can be your friend
4 - your other friend could be 1/4 inch drive stuff but usually not enough power for final tightening
5 - Tighten pairs evenly in the least, all tightened in steps evenly is best.  Don't over torque, but don't stop until you feel your inside voice say "that ain't going nowhere"

Writing a book here, but whether a Mustang, Fairlane or truck, there are always tough bolts.  What I do is anti-seize every bolt, tighten evenly, fire the car.  Then when hot I go back long sleeves and gloves (or just tough it out) and snug every one again, they will be loose.   

Last comment, he (the tuner) may not get every bolt the way he wants it, some won't fit by tight turns of the pipe sometimes, but I am guessing he either hears a leak, or uses an A/F sensor to tune and knows an exhaust leak will change numbers.  Now is the time to get it right before it burns a gasket

[mygasser]

another thing i always do with headers is smear a little silicon on both sides of the gaskets. since doing that i've not had a single blow. maybe the bit that squeezes onto the bolt threads stops them backing out. who knows but it works, even if using the stock shiny manifold type gaskets on headers.
neil.