I agree with Jay, and although I wish you well, generally going the cheapest way and using parts not designed for the engine ends in disappointment.
If you do go this route, which I am not advocating, make sure those tie bars do not bind. They need to be checked with one at max lift and the other on the base, and when both on the base, to ensure there is additional travel available, so you don't break the pins
Then make sure you have enough spring pressure (>150 seat and 165 is better, about 400 open). Any loss of control or binding will beat them into submission. The pictures I attached are an engine that came in from another builder. It did not have adequate pressure and this is what happens when it loses control. He was lucky, no damage other than lifters and cam. Unfortunately, we don't know if those cheap rollers can handle that pressure, but without adequate pressure, it will cause damage, a "catch 22"
Additionally, when a roller axle fails (not the link pins), it makes a mess, usually worse than a failed flat tappet as the housing breaks apart and goes everywhere, usually eating its way through the bearings. So failure costs could be very high.
Trying the cheaper cam is one thing, but I am with the others, send them back or make a cool display for your wall.
ON EDIT: Those are not posed pictures, that is exactly what I saw when I pulled the intake. All the small parts were in the pan, but luckily didn't make it by a stock screen, a performance oil pump pickup likely would have sucked a lot more up
