Sniper 2 Initial Inputs

[Bengeman]

Looking for some advice on the initial inputs for the Sniper wizard. I used Holley's standard inputs on the previous version of this engine and it seemed to "learn" pretty quick (before I lost a cam lobe), But I figure you guys might be able to get me closer to start out with.

Inputs needed
Camshaft type-
Idle RPM-
Timing @ Idle, WOT, and Cruise and cranking-
AFR @ Idle, WOT and Cruise-

EFI- Sniper 2 with Hyperspark

Engine-
447 (.040 over with 4.25 stroke)
Performer RPM intake, stock
Trickflow 175 Heads, stock
10.1 CR
Hyd. roller
Cam is from Brent- I don't know how much info he wants published on this??
Long tube headers

Any other advice related to this is appreciated, This forum has been super helpful during the build. Thanks

[My427stang]

Camshaft type- Street/strip
Idle RPM- Start at 850 RPM, up or down to taste
Timing @ Idle, WOT, and Cruise and cranking- Idle, 15, WOT, 34 (maybe 36, depends on exact cam design, early ICL, smaller lobe stay 34, bigger lobe, later ICL go 38), Cruise 38 (might be able to raise cruise once you get to know behavior)
AFR @ Idle, WOT and Cruise- Idle 14.0, WOT 12.7, Cruise 13.8   (WOT is a little fat but safe, Cruise is also little fat, you can pull back if it doesn't buck)

If tuning from the handheld, just let it rip, see how it does.  However, if you have laptop access, look close at the instructions with the distributor, it tells you different setup procedures (custom settings not just picking the distributor, although I cannot remember if that is Hypersprak or Dualsync). 

Also be sure to not only set the Hyperspark up, but also verify TDC on the balancer mechanically and then use the handheld to make sure the computer sees the same.  There is an offset adjustment if you need it.

Also, just verifying that you put a steel gear on it, Hyperspark distributors as I recall come with an iron gear, Dual Syncs come with steel.

[Bengeman]

Seems like the Holley defaults are pretty close.

I sent the Hyperspark back to MSD for a new steel gear.

I am aware of checking the actual timing VS the command timing so I think that's covered.

The other posts said that the chamber design with the Trickflows allows less timing, at 34* that is pretty close to what Holley's default is.

What's your opinion of paying for a few hours of Laptop tuning from someone with experience? Is it worth it for an engine that I'm not needing to get every last horse out of?

[My427stang]

Someone sharp on a laptop can drive up drivability and add some tweaks, decel fuel shut off, change the shape of the timing curve, etc.  I don't think you'd see a gain for peak power, more for street behavior.  In the end, depends on the cost, but simply flogging it on a dyno probably not worth it.

I don't usually see peak HP and ground strap marks in the right place at 34 with 10:1 and a Trick Flow, although it is close.  At 11:1 generally closer and usually a colder plug.  You are close, but I usually see 35-36 vs 40 for a big sloppy factory chamber.