Any reason not to use head studs?

[c9zx]

TFS heads with HS rockers in 1966 Cyclone. Will the end supports clear the studs? Can all of the studs be removed with the engine in the car? Any other known problems? I'm just trying to make as few mistakes in parts selection as I can. Thanks, Chuck (S)

[Joe-JDC]

My recent buy of head studs from ARP had the ability to loosen the nut and remove them leaving the nut and washer in place.  You can use a T-handle or speed-handle with the proper size allen wrench to remove the stud just like a head bolt.  I personally prefer the fine thread of the ARP stud for the torque application.  Joe-JDC

[blykins]

Nothing wrong with a bolt either.   

[RustyCrankshaft]

I have a 445 with TFS heads and ARP studs, POP stands/end stands/shafts and Brent's rockers and there wasn't any clearance issues. I didn't need studs for the power level the engine is at, but I think studs are better than bolts. For most uses bolts work just fine too.

[MeanGene]

Have to consider whether it's a shock tower car or not

[c9zx]

It does, and will always have, shock towers. The car is too nice to cut on. Is head removal a problem with studs?

[Joe-JDC]

Studs come out just like a bolt.  What is the problem?  You install a stud with your fingers until they bottom out and back them out 1/4 turn, or you can stake the stud hand tight.  Some folks will torque the stud 5# just so it is tight, however ARP recommends that you use the above instructions. The torque is applied to the nut, not the stud threads.  You can remove the studs by hand if you are worried with the washer and nut still on the stud after loosening.  Joe-JDC