First of all, thanks to all for the replies!
My goal is 450 or so HP. More better, but not at the cost of drivability.
What roller cam/lifters? The long term goal is power brakes and 3.91 alxe ratio. The car has a 4 speed transmission.
I have a set of Hooker supercomps ceramic on my '66 gta. And, though difficult to get in there, seal excellent. The negative is how low they hang. I understand FPAs are better at tucked under. Dougs? I would love a sugg here.
The valves look good. I removed the exhaust valve to inspect. Looks completely stock. Old of course.
The RPM intake for sure. Thinking of a 780 VS Holley.
The car still has the stock distributor. Amazing.
Your goals are easy to do. If you have a relationship with Brent, he'll cam you properly. I do it too, but you mentioned talking to him and I'd stay stick with him if you are talking. He, as would I, will ask you for some careful data to spec a cam, but it's worth it. Those that run the CJ circles have to solve the issue all the time, power brakes, parade-driving when needed, and haul the mail when asked. Pretty easy combo and likely could sneak a bit more power out when you add the RPM intake.
Cam brand is less important than understanding lobe design. I have had great luck with Morel lifters, but spring setup is critical for any hyd roller.
Some plusses with Edelbrock heads, weight mostly, but significant minuses too, heavier valve train, spring package isn't great and wrong for an FE hyd roller, valve job and valves are nothing special for flow, guides can be tight. If you sold your CJ heads, you could certainly modify new Edels to outperform CJs and save weight, but to out perform a set of CJ's
prepped properly, it'll mean a modern valve job and spring package, adding to the cost, so an order from Summit won't cut it.
FYI, in either head, prepped properly means valve seat angles and valves that work with those heads, in the CJ I would go lighter (and new/safe) 11/32 valves, bronze guides, and a matching spring package with spring cups and Viton seals, cut the deck and exhaust surface. With Edels I'd likely do a guide clearance check, work the seat and valve, and just make sure the spring package could handle the heavy 3/8 valve, they also tend to come in big, but regardless, in either head you need to complete them and calculate compression to get all you can out of the cam.
In the end, in some ways it makes the C8OE-N not too expensive and better than Edels out of the box (no assuming port work, just prep).
Frank isn't wrong about the TFS, depends on valve drop and available space, but my point wasn't to go with TFS, it was that the chamber and port of an Edelbrock ain't all that. The TFS is much better, but I probably wouldn't bother unless you want to make even more power and willing to go inside.
Super Comps are excellent, and in most cases FPA headers are too, and slightly better for power. My last set of FPAs on a customer's Torino needed a little adjustment at the collectors. Basically they sat a little wide and crowded the frame, easy fix though, long pipe in the header it self and a shove, they fit perfect.
I also like the CJ carb, last all iron CJ I did was 486 HP on an 850, 476 on a stock CJ carb (iron head and CJ intake, no spacer, 229 duration cam with high vacuum and drivability). However, if going new I would use a QFT HR780VS over a Holley, doesn't look stock but a great carb. We just installed one on a customer's 66 428PI in a real police car (395-ish HP) and it's very happy and you get electric choke
The stock distributor is a good one, generally, I send them to Rockhouse Racing to be restored and while he is at it, add a steel gear for the HR cam. He can do what they call the Tasca curve, which almost always works well with a stock head or the Edelbrock, certainly helps drivability and acceleration.