Intake manifold fit - part 2

[Boiler Ben]

I’m having issues with my Edelbrock intake sitting a little low. I posted about this a while ago and since then I’ve discussed with Edelbrock. They asked me to send it back to them. Unfortunately the new one they sent looks about the same. I’m testing the fit with standard gaskets and trying to determine what size of thick gaskets I should get.  I have a couple questions.

1.  It’s hard to stop the slow oil drip from the corners of the heads. The gaskets have gotten a little oily on the ends as a result. I don’t mind since I won’t be using these gaskets anyway. But I’ll need to test fit again with new gaskets. How important is it to make sure they don’t get oily?

2.  The intake bolt clearance holes will likely have a problem once the thick gaskets are in place. I’m thinking I’ll need to take to my machine shop.  Any issues with making these holes oblong shape in the necessary direction?

3.  One of the clearance holes needing attention is at the front and near the water passage. Any advice on doing this hole?  I can’t tell how much material is there. 

4.  What is the trick to getting the distributor to seat?  I’ve only been able to get it one time, by luck. I try easing it in and rotating slightly.  The oil pump shaft seems to tip in different directions and I can’t seem to get it to seat.

[My427stang]

1.  Get the returns clean, spray a little carb clean or thinner.  Can't really say oil there will hurt, but best not to, especially when trying to seal the end of the china wall

2. If the manifold sits right, rarely is there a hole alignment problem, however, the 4 end ones can sometimes be close.  You can drill a little, but better to make it fit right with the correct gasket

3. I don't know what you mean on this one.

4. On the stand, drop it where you want it and turn the engine over with a ratchet, it'll drop.  Then go back to TDC and check if you are where you want to be.  In the car, use a ratchet or bump the starter. 

It seems very odd the problems you are having.  Can you take a picture of the manifold sitting with no gaskets and with the ones you propse to use?

[Boiler Ben]

Here is a pic of the intake without any gaskets.  I haven't purchased thick gaskets yet but I do have standard 0.060" ones that I've been testing the fit with.  You can see the offset at the VC is greater on the passenger side.  I've taken measurements for port alignment and the intake ports are approximately 0.100" closer to the VC on the passenger side of the intake compared to the driver's side.  So the ports are aligned better when the VC alignment is "off" left to right as shown in the pic.  But there is a pretty big step at the VC so I think a 0.094" gasket would be better than the standard 0.060" one.  I will still need silicone at the interface, but not sure how much can be made up for this way.

On the other pic, you can see the intake mounting hole at the thermostat.  If this were "elongated" too far to the bottom or right side, it would break through to the water passage.  Maybe some amount would be OK though.

[My427stang]

I have never seen one sit so low and crooked.

Was your block decked or is it FE standard (crooked, wavy and uneven) LOL

I think I would likely set it up with 2 blue Felpros and look at alignment and look again.  Port mismatch isn't great but it's more important that it seals

[Boiler Ben]

I honestly don’t know if it was decked since I purchased a partially assembled short block.  Lessons have been learned but trying to push ahead with what I have.

Rather than buying another set of gaskets, could I put two on one side and shim the other side to make these checks?

[chilly460]

I had to use .060” (I think) gaskets from SCE to get my intake to line up, I liked that better than stacking gaskets. 

As for the distributor, I have the same issues with the drive pump.  I put a gob of bearing grease on the driveshaft, it’s thick enough that you can use a screwdriver to move the shaft into the center of the bore and the grease will hold it still until you can stab the distributor.  Usually takes a few tries, cold grease works better.

[My427stang]

How much quench distance do you have?  Ever consider a thinner head gasket?  Not a fan of shims, but if you are at .053 with an 8554, could tighten things up by .010 with a 1020. 

Heck if the deck clearance is different on both sides, might even be able to correct a little of the difference with two different ones

[Kirk Morgan]

I would pull the heads off and measure where the pistons are from the deck surface from side to side to figure out the next move. On your dist. struggles you may have the oil pump drive shaft in upside down. One end normally has a point on it.

[Boiler Ben]

Thanks for all the tips. I have some things to test out over the weekend.

[Boiler Ben]

I fit everything up again with the standard 0.060” gaskets.  I was able to get the distributor seated and positioned the manifold as best I could and put in a couple bolts to hold it in place.  Using a feeler, I checked the gasket surface everywhere and it is seated pretty well.  The VC interface is off but it is more or less consistent on all 4 corners.  A thick gasket should work well.

But the mounting bolt clearance holes on the manifold are already marginal is some places.  A thicker gasket will make some better and some worse.  I don’t see how I can avoid elongating a few of them.

Is there anything else I should consider before attempting this?

[475fetoploader]

Personally I would get the thicker gaskets, and mock it up with them.  Prior to modifying the intake manifold, just incase you don't actually need to.

[bsprowl]

You don't have to get a set of gaskets.  Find some palastic or whatever material that is the thickness you want to try at the four corners.  Experiment until you get the best fit.  Then decide whether gaskets or milling it the best way to fix the problem.