My '70 Maverick drag car.

[bsprowl]

I think I need to my project here.  It will be a long one as I don't get much done on most days. This post will be the background and I'll create another for todays progess or lack there of.

I bought a '66 Falcon 2 door sedan that had been tubbed. I bought a straight front axle setup from Speedway Motors and a narrowed rear end that would fit the tubbed rear wheel wells.  But then I discovered that the guy that tubbed it did not take the frame out of the rear wheels wells and that the light surface rest in the front foot wells was equal to no front floor.  Swapped a pair of Bj and BKI carbs with a good friend for his rotisserie.  My son and I estimated that we had more than a year of work to do on the body and while we wanted to build this car maybe we should get a roller so we could work on the drive train.  (I really don’t like doing body work.)

Looked around and found the Maverick.  Not my favorite body but it was a great project car.  It was certified for 8.5 seconds by NHRA with a roll cage, had a 9 inch rear end, and had the right tires and rims.  It had ran in the AA Fuel Altered so It should work find for me.  Bought and had it shipped to me here in Alabama from California.

Had things I needed to take care of (prostate cancer) so it sat for almost a year.  I did start on the engine but it was slow also.  Just started on it last week. 

[bsprowl]

Does anyone know where I can buy an big-in top loader internal hydraulic throw out bearing?  I need one.
I got the engine block plate built today.  Whittled it out of a piece of ¼ inch aluminum.  It fit both of my Lakewood scatter shields and the Maverick.  Started on the brackets for frame and discovered that the steering column and the throw out bearing arm need to be in the same space.

The steering box location is ify at best.  The left rear shackle, when extended due to a large load on the front end, hits the bottom of the steering box.  The drag link is not parallel with the tie rod; it could move forward about 3-3/4 inches to make them parallel.  However, the left shackle mount will then need to an inch lower.  So there are two reasons to move the steering box.  But relocating the shackles screws with all of the front end geometry - ugh.  I don’t want to do that.
 
I could put a couple of universal joints on the steering column and move it up but that’s not optimal and leads to other possible problems.
 
Therefore I need to get rid of the throw out bearing fork.

[bsprowl]

No one seems to make a hydraulic throw bearing for the big in top loader.  And the discovered that I only had a vertical travel of ¾ of an inch when the shackle hits the steering box.  There fore I decided I needed to fix the travel problem by relocating the steering box.  This would also let me move the drag link parallel would the tie rod.  I stopped work on the engine mounts and started on this new issue.
Removed the engine, put the front end on jack stands, took many pictures of what I have then disconnected the drag link and removed the steering box.  The steer wheel and shaft hand been disconnected previously.  I took the spring off and removed the third and sixth leaves as the car is light and the springs are too stiff. I had to change the eye bolt as it was too long and I had to make a spacer to go under the bottom leaf as the U-bolts holding the spring to the axle were too long and hit the axle.  I didn’t want to cut the U-bolts because I might want to put the removed springs if I don’t like the ride after the car is completely assembled.
 
I reinstalled the spring, but I put the nut end of the shackle to the outside.  This will provide some more clearance for the steering box.
 
The above paragraph almost covers my whole day.  My son came by this evening and we removed the front end body work (the two fenders and the grille, etc.) so I would have easy access to the front end.  It slides off to the front after the removal of two bolts.

[bsprowl]

Removed the third and sixth leaves from the right-side spring.  The front end is still stiff; three people weighing about 480 pounds hardly moved it.
 
I want to move the steering box forward away from steering column the throw bearing fork.  This will also move the drag link forward and make it closer to parallel with the tie rod.  About 3-3/4 inches the most it can move or the drag link rubs against the right side spring.  The steering box location cannot be higher than the original location or the drag link will rub against the spring.  The lower two bolt holes can straddle the left side spring shackle.  Moving the steering box lower does not help with the original problem.
 
The three mounting locations require spacers about 0.40 thick.  (I have them.).  The angle of the steering column is 14 degrees and the bottom two bolt holes are not parallel to the floor.  If I use a 1 inch longer bolt (5/8-18 x 4 inches long, grade to connect the steering box to the drag link and add a spacer; I can move/ tilt the steering box with better results.  (A 3.5” bolt is not available; I will cut the 4-inch bolt down.)
 
(The steering box mounting holes are 3/8-16.  It was mounted using 5/16-18 bolts and nuts, ignoring the threaded mounts.) 

[bsprowl]

I used a 4 inch long, half inch bolt and some bushings to simulate the 5/8 bolt I need for the steering box to drag link connection.  I also built at spacer to wooden space to mount the steering without having to deal with six spacers originally used.  The new steering box location only need a small amount of change.  I even checked the steering wheel location from the driver’s seat.  So I drilled holes in the frame and using two of the three bolts, mounted it using thicker spacers to allow more movement of the shackles before there is and interference problem.  I built the inside tab for the third bolt and tomorrow I will create the outside tab and weld them both on.
 
The drag link was 7-1/4 inches behind the tie rod; now it’s 3-1/4 inches behind.  The steering box is 7/8 of an inch higher and all of the vertical play at the pitman arm to drag link connection is gone. 

[bsprowl]

Made a steering box tab for the lower, outside of the frame but I didn’t like it.  Made a second.  Tested fitted it all one more time.  OK!  Took it all apart and wire brushed the paint off so I could get good welds; put it all together so the tabs were held in place by the box, its bolts and some clamps; tacked the two tabs in place; removed the steering box and welded the tabs in place.  I also welded the old holes closed.  Removed some of the weld that I knew would interfere with the box mounting and painted all of the bare metal.  I’ll mount the box tomorrow or Tuesday depending on how long I’m struck at the Doctor’s. 

[jayb]

Sounds like you are making good progress Bob.  Can you post some pictures of your work?

[bsprowl]

I have no idea how to post a picture here.  I also have problems down loading pictures from my camera.  My son heckles me about that, "You can write web pages, but can't forward a picture you just took."  Progress is slow as I try to get each task done right, and will fix a minor problem I find as soon as I encounter it.  I am somewhat OCD.

Added a block plate, starter and fuel pump to the mock up engine then repositioned it using the rear block plate.  I need to cut a notch for the raised steering column.  Started on the rear engine brackets but got side tracked by my grand-daughter.  She is converting her Dodge van for off the grid living.  I helped wire her solar panels and will make two drawers tomorrow. 

[bsprowl]

Didn’t do enough car stuff yesterday to matter.  Did build a couple of drawers for the Dodge Sprinter van, sharpened the lawn mower blades and cut the grass.

I like to look ahead at the next tasks and do some preliminary mock ups.  The clutch slave cylinder and transmission mounting are going to follow the rear engine block plate and I didn’t want the block plate mounting to have to be changed so I dug out a big-in/big-out top loader searched for an throw out  bearing to properly position the throw out fork, hung the transmission the back of the block and put it in the Maverick.  Had to clean all of those things first as they didn’t want to go together (twenty years of dirt) and then I had to change the engine lift points so it would sit level when lifted.  Killed the afternoon.  But it is in place now.  The clutch slave mounting should be easy.  The transmission mount is a bit below the bottom of the frame so I may want to raise the engine.  And I get to think about various options while I do other things and not make rushed decisions.   I can measure for the drive shaft and get it ordered also. 
The longer bolt for the drag link arrived, so I need to install that.  Have to look for a clutch and brake pedal set that I can install.  Going to try to use a slave cylinder from a ’58 Ford F100 that I happen to have. 
I need to notch and reenforce the frame for the seat relocation; my son’s helmet is against the roof in front of the roll bar and that won’t work.  This is just a cut and paste task, time consuming but not complicated; going to overbuild the re-enforcement so it can’t fail.

But all of those will be after I finish the engine mounts.  And figure out how to get pictures from my new-to-me iPhone and into Windows. The list seems endless.
 
(Things that still need to be done:  building headers, battery and electrical, gauges, new firewall and floor, radiator, fuel tank, tilting front fenders and grille, throttle pedal, wheelie bars.  I wonder what I’m overlooking – finish assembling/installing the engine, getting a flywheel and clutch, installing the 4.30 or 4.72 Detroit locker.)

[bsprowl]

Busy week.  Started on the frame brackets for engine.  I had to decide whether to proceed with the block plate at the rear and front mounts or to use the traditional engine mounting point.  The engine sits high enough that it is well above the narrow frame so building headers with gentle curves will not be a problem in either case.  I decided to stay with the original plan.
 
On Monday I took the BBM 482 engine to a Ford Engine Builder to identify the breakaway torque problem and see what else I was overlooking.  The breakaway torque problem is due to the crankshaft end play being only half the factory minimum instead of 0.004 inches and which for a racing motor is often twice that.  It was probably due to the center main bearing saddle not being machined properly; a common problem the original builder probably did not check.
 
They found several other things.  The valve springs are not strong enough; they are for a smaller cam - something around 0.600 lift, not my 0.688 lift.  The heads are a generation behind what’s currently available and I’ll giving up thirty horsepower with the cam I have which leads to the cam being too small for my car.  With a bigger cam and better heads (which I have but I was going to use them the smaller engine) I can get another hundred horsepower.  So I went with their selection for a 0.710 lift cam with a 270/278/113 duration/lobe center.  My cam 0.688 cam will go into my smaller 416 cubic inch engine with the BBM heads.  My smaller engine is being built to race using a Ford top loader transmission.  The better heads actually have a smaller combustion chamber for a higher compression ratio around 12.1 vice 11.5.
 
The good news is my 850 center squirter Holley carbs are a great fit for the 482 BBM engine.
 
Today I finished fabricating the block plate brackets and then I welded them onto the Maverick.  I still have to drill the bolt holes.  Next will be the front brackets, then the clutch slave cylinder bracket needs to be made. 

[bsprowl]

The block plate is finished.  Ordered a clutch slave cylinder from Rockauto.  A removable cross member under the front of the engine above the axle would allow me to modify the front engine mount.  I will weld tabs for the crossmember and bolt the front motor mounts to the cross member.  If it works like I want, I can weld it in later.  Finally found the spacer I need for the drag link and ordered it.
 
I’ve been looking for a clutch and brake pedal assembly at Speedway Motors and on Facebook Market place.  I’ve got a reasonable amount of space to mount it above and to the front of the lower dash crossbar.  I looked at the ’58 Ford F100 truck a couple of times and pulled this assembly out of it yesterday.  I think it will fit; I’ll have build a bracket, etc.  I just realized I haven’t checked the space for the brake master cylinder in the engine compartment so maybe it won’t.  And I’ll need to find a master cylinder that will work with front disk and rear drum brakes.
 
Removed the fuel pressure and oil pressure gauges and discovered the switch panel is at the top of the roll cage.
 
Started building the clutch slave cylinder bracket; I need some 3/8” spacers I don’t have so I ordered them tonight.  I should temporarily mount the steering column to ensure it has enough clearance.  The original mount was “Mickey Mouse” so I’ll need to do it right later

[bsprowl]

The original brake master cylinder’s output fitting does not seal, i.e., it leaks.  Teflon tape does not let it get tight.  It took me a couple of hours to pin down that the fitting has a 3/8-24 bolt thread, not a pipe thread.  And this thread is also used by the smallest 3/16” brake line fittings (tubes).   However, there is nothing inside the master cylinder port for the fitting to fit against, so it doesn’t seal.   It is not a metric size, but the threads almost match an M10-1.25 bolt. 

The fitting apparently was made by someone as it seems to be two fittings brazed together.  It only has  a threaded length of a quarter inch.  The port is 3/8” deep and threaded.  The master cylinder casting marks are US Brakes but I cannot find them via an internet search.
 
I think I will disassemble the master cylinder, drill and tap the port for a ¼” pipe fitting and then bush it down to use 3/16’ tubing.    If this doesn’t work then I’ll just replace it. 

[hbstang]

that kind of stuff sounds fugly! good that you fond it.is this going to be a gasser style car? fe engine?

[bsprowl]

It started out as a gasser project.  But the rules for A/Gas today is only one carb, so that's out.  Maybe Competition Coupe but I haven't verified the carb limits there.

Or some tyoe of AFX nostaglia car. 

I just want to try to see how fast and quick I can go, setting personal bests so the class thing is not important.  I do not expect my eighty year old reflexes will get me more than the first round in any class.

[Rory428]

Isn`t the HRR A/Gas class a 7.60 ET index? That sounds like a pretty optimistic goal, I must say. I know Dan ran in D/Gas, and that was a 10.60 index.