Metallic mud- oh crap! Will I have an oiling issue? 427 solid roller cam.

[Rory428]

Here is my cam spec. It was considered streetable upon my build.


http://www.fairlanet.com/images/camspecs484.jpeg

Like Brent said, what some call streetable, others may not. That cam appears to be very similar in lift and duration to the Oregon Cam solid flat tappet cam that I ran for years in both several 428s, and the 427 in my Fairmont. That cam ran for years , with 145 pounds of seat, and 320 open, and ran a best of 10.03 at 132 MPH in the .030 over 428, and 9.97 at 132 with the 427 with 428 crank. Both engines used stock iron Cobra Jet heads, and despite shifting those engines at 6200 RPM, I would have been pretty hard pressed to call that cam "streetable", at last MY version of streetable. To me, a streetable cam is one that can idle down well below 1000 RPM, and have enough vacuum , so that the power brakes can function normally, if so equipped. And most anybody could be able to drive the car, without needing a crash course in how to drive the car. To some, anything that can stumble down to the local burger joint car meet is streetable, but others prefer a street car to be able to go 1000s of miles per year, without needing to be checking valve lash, spring pressures , and other items more than once a year. I know that Drag Week, and similar "Drag and Drive" events are fairly popular,  and some guys think that a Pro Mod race car is a street car, if it can make the trip from one dragstrip to the next, without wipers, functional glass windows, a steel body , especially with a naturally aspirated engine. When I see a car with a turbo  or blower sticking a foot above the stock hood, or a 8" tall cowl hood, the hood and fenders held together with Dzuz fasteners, lexan windows that don`t go up and down, and the open headers sticking out of the front fenders, to me, that is not what I consider a street car. But thats just one old guys opinion. Some of those "street car" drivers, as well as most "Rat Rod" drivers, must have heart papilations if a Police car happens to pull up behind or along side them at an intersection.

[Barry_R]

That is kinda frisky for a street oriented cam. 
More street racer than street driver.
Used similar cams often for that purpose. 
I would agree with Brent on the spring deal. 
I used a Manley Nextec oval track spring on stuff like that when I was running traditional four stud rocker mounting - had around 220-230 seat and still only around 600 open.
Couple with a TI or tool steel retainer, set up installed as tight to .050 from bind as you could comfortably get -  and they would do really well.
And I would look at that .012 as a cold lash target - should get you right around .020-.021 hot.
Sometimes hard to define "hot" and keep it consistent through the lash process.  But room temperature cold is easy.

[Falcon67]

I only have one engine with flat hydro tappets in it, and those have been in there since around 2000. They are in the back up 302 and have been beat to death but are still happy to be here LOL.  Everything else is roller.  If I was going to run street or street/strip with the occasional Friday Night TnT passes, I'd stick with hydros - depending on the shift RPM.  Under 6500 - no problem.  I run solids in the race engines without regard to max RPM and will only use pin oil models.  The current setup is a hydro roller with solids on top running .005 lash.  I note that .005 lash is a pain in the ass to run and I may back off to .010 to get a little bit of wiggle room.  It's taken 2 races to make sure the valve train is all set for full blasts.  That's a mechanic issue, not the valve train LOL. With about 600lbs over the nose, everything has to be set really good-n-tight. 600 lbs will find your weak spots quick.