Author Topic: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm  (Read 9948 times)

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bartlett

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Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« on: July 21, 2013, 06:32:45 AM »
While reading I ran across a artical about a guy who only changed the oil pump from a stocker to a high volume and lost 11hp .. jay ever tryed this ? found it interesting....

Drew Pojedinec

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2013, 08:00:27 AM »
ever turn a high volume pump and a standard pump with a drill?
You can feel the difference whilst prelubing....  just imagine at 6500rpms instead of the 300rpms that a drill turns it.
I can only imagine heavy racing oil with a high volume pump on a 30 degree morning start.

jayb

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2013, 08:15:18 AM »
While reading I ran across a artical about a guy who only changed the oil pump from a stocker to a high volume and lost 11hp .. jay ever tryed this ? found it interesting....

I never have done a test like that, but I'd be very skeptical of an 11 HP difference.  I'd say a difference of 2-3 horsepower is more likely.  But then again, I don't have any data.  It would be a fun test to try, except that it's such a pain to pull the oil pan...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

cjshaker

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2013, 11:07:28 AM »
I think most of the loss was attributed to increased parasitic drag from the return oil flow hitting the crank and the lack of a scraper, windage tray etc. It seems more plausible when looked at from that perspective. If tolerances are tight enough to control oil flow, then the loss will be minimal. But if you have looser clearances, allowing the HV pump to actually move more oil through the engine, then there will be more oil for the crank to hit as it returns. Actual HP loss to drive the pump is probably closer to what Jay said. I seriously doubt that a 10hp Briggs would have trouble turning a HV pump to 3200 rpm.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

ScotiaFE

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2013, 11:09:55 AM »
If someone is building an FE today they should consider all that is involved.
That being said there is no reason to run a stock 40 psi oil pump even in a mild 390.
The B pump will put the needle at 60 + psi at 4000 rpm.


Here is some test data.
Small Chev test engine, but still good data.


""Re: oil pump volumes

Postby 540 RAT » Tue Jun 07, 2011 2:16 pm

When it comes to discussing/debating the topic of “std volume oil pumps vs high volume oil pumps”, we need something more than just opinion and speculation. We need some actual real world data. So, consider the following:

About a year and a half ago, Car Craft Magazine used a 372ci SBC to do an oil pump volume comparison test. So, we can look at that actual data to see how things stack up. Here are the results using conventional petroleum 30 wt for each test:

Oil Pump……………………........Peak HP………………Ave. HP……………Ave. press.

Std volume/std pressure.……….485……………………...392……………………..50 psi

High volume/High pressure…….481……………………...390……………………..66 psi

High volume/std pressure………477……………………...387……………………..64 psi

As you can see, surprisingly the std pressure version of the high volume pump made the worst HP of these three small block pumps. It was down 8hp or down 1.6% for peak HP, and down 5hp or down 1.3% for Ave HP. It also provided a 14 psi increase in ave pressure, or a 28% increase in ave pressure.

But the High volume/high pressure pump was down only 4hp or down .8% for peak HP, and down only 2hp or down only .5% for Ave HP. This one provided a 16 psi increase in ave pressure, or a 32% increase in ave pressure.

Of course the most important number is the “average” HP loss, NOT the peak HP loss. Because peak is only a single data point, while average is across the whole rpm range being used.

Only the most hardcore racer could ever notice a 2hp or .5% HP loss, using the high volume/high pressure pump. So, using that pump does NOT cause a significant loss in performance. And the higher volume pump will provide better low rpm oil pressure, and allow for switching to the much better thinner full synthetic oils that are available. More on that below:


And in the same article, Car Craft also tested different oil viscosities using the High volume/std pressure oil pump. Here are those results:

Oil…………………....Peak HP…………Ave. HP……………Ave. press……..Ave. Flow in GPM

0W10 syn……………...480………………….387………………………56……………………..7.4

5W20 syn……………...479………………….386………………………59……………………..7.2

20W50 syn…………....477………………….387………………………67……………………..6.5

30W conventional……475………………….384………………………67……………………..6.1


The 0W10 is probably thinner than all but the hardest of hardcore racers would care to use. And 20W50 is thickish and somewhat similar to the straight 30W.

But 30W conventional petroleum oil was used for the oil pump volume test at the top, so let’s use that as the main reference here for viscosity comparisons. And that leaves the more reasonable 5W20 synthetic for a quick viscosity comparison.

The 5W20 made 4hp more peak HP or about .8% more peak HP than the 30W. It also made 2hp more ave HP, or .5% more Ave HP than the 30W. So, HP increases with the thinner oil is not significant here, but it does offset the slight loss of hp from going to a high volume pump in the first place. The thinner 5W20 also drops a little oil pressure, but it’s still quite reasonable.

So, a larger volume oil pump loses a tad bit of HP and increases the oil pressure, but the thinner synthetic oil gains a tad bit of HP and decreases the oil pressure. In the end, it’s all pretty much a wash. So then what’s the point of making these changes at all?

To answer that, we need to look at the average flow in GPM (gallons per minute). The 5W20 flows a whopping 18% more than the straight 30W. So what’s the value in that you ask?

Well, many folks think that pressure = lubrication, but that is simply not the case. Pressure is only a measurement of resistance to flow. FLOW is the only thing that lubricates, and you get more flow with thinner oil as we just saw above. Lubrication is what is used to separate moving parts, and keep them from touching.

And increased flow also has another very important advantage. An engine's vital internal components are all DIRECTLY OIL COOLED, but only INdircetly water cooled. And thinner oil will flow more freely, carrying away more heat, thus providing better cooling for those vital internal components. And of course that extra cooling is even more important in high performance engines.

So, going to the trouble of achieving almost an extra 20% in flow, is well worth the effort. If someone asks why use a high volume pump, the answer is so that you can maintain reasonable oil pressure with thinner oil. And with thinner oil, you can improve both lubrication and cooling. So, it’s all good.

NOTE: To best see those oil temp changes and cooling improvements, you really need to observe that in a running car on the road or on the track. Because trying to observe this during brief dyno pulls, will likely result in you not getting a worthwhile picture of the true potential.

So, here are some comparison numbers for you from an 830 HP road race engine, on the track:

15W50 oil = 80 psi = 265* oil temp

5W20 oil = 65 psi = 240* oil temp

Here you can see how the thicker oil flowed more slowly through the bearings, thus getting hotter and driving up bearing temps. If an engine is running hot, use a thinner oil to increase flow and increase cooling. And running a high volume oil pump allows you to do that.

For me personally, I run 5W30 synthetic in my 781 HP, 710 ft lb, 540ci BBC Street/Strip motor, which I intentionally built with .003 clearance on the rods and mains. And with a Titan gerotor high volume oil pump, it has a hot idle oil pressure of about 30 psi, and a max oil pressure of 80 psi.""

Full Thread here:

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=27041

Drew Pojedinec

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2013, 05:24:40 PM »
But then again, I don't have any data.  It would be a fun test to try, except that it's such a pain to pull the oil pan...

-says the guy that pulled 400 FE intakes.    ;D

Qikbbstang

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Drew you forgot 6,500rpm on the oil pump would be 13,000rpm on the crank
« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2013, 09:16:34 PM »

That said I'm thinking about all that interesting ideas that were thrown against the wall in this thread. I've primed numerous engine mounted HV pumps with my Milwaukee 1/2in Magnum Hole Shooter variable speed drill 850rpm rated and believe it should be capable of churning oil at that 850 rpm. I am not Superman and never felt that much torque wanting to twist the drill from my hands, yet I know the drill will in fact take me for it ride if it indeed gets loaded.  To me it seems as if it simply achieves bypass pretty fast and the torque loading on the drill from there on up in rpm seems to stay stable.

Re: You can feel the difference whilst prelubing....  just imagine at 6500rpms instead of the 300rpms that a drill turns it.

jayb

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2013, 10:56:58 PM »
But then again, I don't have any data.  It would be a fun test to try, except that it's such a pain to pull the oil pan...

-says the guy that pulled 400 FE intakes.    ;D

I love pulling FE intakes. ;D  I hate pulling oil pans.  >:(  You will never see a book titled "The Great FE Oil Pan Comparo" LOL!
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

plovett

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #8 on: July 22, 2013, 10:32:32 AM »
Now that's funny!  ;D 

I hate changing oil pans too, esecially with the engine in the car.

I run a high volume oil pump and use 15W50 synthetic for most of the year.  In winter I run usually run 5W40 synthetic.  For whatever that's worth. 

paulie

Cyclone03

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #9 on: July 22, 2013, 04:53:16 PM »
This may be the thread to bring this up,it dyed on the other board about a year ago.

Oil Presure v. Oil temp
 Ive noticed with my FE going down the road,up to full temp I have right on the bypass spring just over 65psi,I call it 67psi,2300rpm. To my mind I'm bypassing oil all the time to maintain that pressure. I've ran it through the gears with a co pilot watching the OP gauge and he reported "0ver 80psi" at 6000 so the By Pass cant keep up. The clearences are tighter, over all internal leaks are less I guess. Thats with 20w50 Valvoline Syn.


Now back in the 00's (lol) I had a new 03 Mercury Marauder,being like all gear heads I wanted a real oil pressure gauge,the factory one was a fake never left 65psi when car was running. I put a real gauge in it and found it moved....alot from 10-15 at idle up to over 90 when cold on start up. All with 5w20 oil.

Back to the FE Mustang.
When it was cold here in Tx. I was a little late in changing oil and still had my normal 20w-50 in it. I was also doing my best to keep it "Show Ready" so I was wiping it down (over the top cleaning it really) EVERY NIGHT when I got home from work,about 11pm. The Oil Pan was HOT to the touch.
After a few weeks I got off my @$$ and changed the oil to 15w40,near same outside temps,high 40's(LOL Tx cold) same anal cleaning habbits(that sounds wroung) but the oil pan was bearly warm (?) The oil pressure at idle was down a little but going down the road the pressure was "just below" 65 at 2000 I didn't run it to see what MAX was. I thought about that pan surface temp drop and wondered if the bypass was just heating the oil for no reason?

My friend runs strait 60w oil in his Boss 302 track car with a big oil cooler because he looses OP due to the Oil Temp,car comes off the track at near 0 at idle with 40w,25psi with 60w, he says. I dont think he cares to debate the whys,he wants to see OP at idle,I dont know if it looses pressure at 8000rpm or not with lighter oil.

My thought on my street car is leaning toward swinging pressure up to 2000/2300 is no problem as long as I'm not in the bypass 100% of the time,this may actually lower my oil temp because I'm not bypassing excessively,even though my idle pressure will be about 20-25 at 900rpm,so dropping back to a 10w30 will be ok as long as I maintain 10psi per 1000rpm+ 10psi or so. I'm thinking 70psi at 6000rpm?

IF I still show oil pressure do I want to run the thinnest oil that maintains pressure at idle? What am I loosing with a thinner oil? Will my solid Flat tappet cam hate me with lower oil pressure/thinner oil(Film Strength)?
Lance H

Cyclone03

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #10 on: July 22, 2013, 04:56:48 PM »
But then again, I don't have any data.  It would be a fun test to try, except that it's such a pain to pull the oil pan...

-says the guy that pulled 400 FE intakes.    ;D

I love pulling FE intakes. ;D  I hate pulling oil pans.  >:(  You will never see a book titled "The Great FE Oil Pan Comparo" LOL!

LOL,just flip the engine over on the DYNO so the pan is on top,that would make it easier to pull the pan. Come to think of it pulling a stock FE intake would be easier if it was on the bottom.....
Lance H

jayb

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #11 on: July 22, 2013, 10:48:39 PM »
This may be the thread to bring this up,it dyed on the other board about a year ago.

Oil Presure v. Oil temp
 Ive noticed with my FE going down the road,up to full temp I have right on the bypass spring just over 65psi,I call it 67psi,2300rpm. To my mind I'm bypassing oil all the time to maintain that pressure. I've ran it through the gears with a co pilot watching the OP gauge and he reported "0ver 80psi" at 6000 so the By Pass cant keep up. The clearences are tighter, over all internal leaks are less I guess. Thats with 20w50 Valvoline Syn.


Now back in the 00's (lol) I had a new 03 Mercury Marauder,being like all gear heads I wanted a real oil pressure gauge,the factory one was a fake never left 65psi when car was running. I put a real gauge in it and found it moved....alot from 10-15 at idle up to over 90 when cold on start up. All with 5w20 oil.

Back to the FE Mustang.
When it was cold here in Tx. I was a little late in changing oil and still had my normal 20w-50 in it. I was also doing my best to keep it "Show Ready" so I was wiping it down (over the top cleaning it really) EVERY NIGHT when I got home from work,about 11pm. The Oil Pan was HOT to the touch.
After a few weeks I got off my @$$ and changed the oil to 15w40,near same outside temps,high 40's(LOL Tx cold) same anal cleaning habbits(that sounds wroung) but the oil pan was bearly warm (?) The oil pressure at idle was down a little but going down the road the pressure was "just below" 65 at 2000 I didn't run it to see what MAX was. I thought about that pan surface temp drop and wondered if the bypass was just heating the oil for no reason?

My friend runs strait 60w oil in his Boss 302 track car with a big oil cooler because he looses OP due to the Oil Temp,car comes off the track at near 0 at idle with 40w,25psi with 60w, he says. I dont think he cares to debate the whys,he wants to see OP at idle,I dont know if it looses pressure at 8000rpm or not with lighter oil.

My thought on my street car is leaning toward swinging pressure up to 2000/2300 is no problem as long as I'm not in the bypass 100% of the time,this may actually lower my oil temp because I'm not bypassing excessively,even though my idle pressure will be about 20-25 at 900rpm,so dropping back to a 10w30 will be ok as long as I maintain 10psi per 1000rpm+ 10psi or so. I'm thinking 70psi at 6000rpm?

IF I still show oil pressure do I want to run the thinnest oil that maintains pressure at idle? What am I loosing with a thinner oil? Will my solid Flat tappet cam hate me with lower oil pressure/thinner oil(Film Strength)?

The temperature of the oil pan is a really, really interesting observation.  Just a guess, but here is what I think is happening.  It's going to take more power to turn the pump with thicker oil.  More power is going to mean more frictional heat is generated in the oil pump.  Further, with a higher viscosity oil less volume will be required by the engine because escape through the bearing clearances will be lower.  So, more oil will be bypassed.  Hotter oil, and more of it going right back into the pan, will lead to a higher temperature in the pan.

Thinner oil is good for power, because it reduced frictional losses.  New vehicles run really thin oil because their internal clearances are tighter than the older engines were.  If you set your engine up with standard, by the book clearances, I wouldn't run less than 10W-30 in the engine.  You should select the weight of the oil based on the bearing clearances, not on other factors, IMO.

Why are you opposed to having oil bypassed by the pump all the time?  That is where I would want to be; if you are not bypassing oil at the pump, it stands to reason that the engine could take more oil than the pump is giving it.  That can't be good...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

rockhouse66

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #12 on: July 23, 2013, 07:07:23 AM »
Why are you opposed to having oil bypassed by the pump all the time?  That is where I would want to be; if you are not bypassing oil at the pump, it stands to reason that the engine could take more oil than the pump is giving it.  That can't be good...

My thinking would be the opposite; having the entire oil pump output volume in circulation inside the engine, rather than bypassing to the pan, should provide the most cooling?  Circulating oil is important to engine cooling, yes?
Jim

machoneman

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #13 on: July 23, 2013, 07:56:40 AM »
Think you need to get actual oil temps via a gauge before going much further. That or add an oil cooler and forget it.
Bob Maag

jayb

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Re: Oil pump dyno thoughts ???? hmmm
« Reply #14 on: July 23, 2013, 11:22:50 AM »
Why are you opposed to having oil bypassed by the pump all the time?  That is where I would want to be; if you are not bypassing oil at the pump, it stands to reason that the engine could take more oil than the pump is giving it.  That can't be good...

My thinking would be the opposite; having the entire oil pump output volume in circulation inside the engine, rather than bypassing to the pan, should provide the most cooling?  Circulating oil is important to engine cooling, yes?

 I think that oil splash inside the engine helps with cooling, but I really don't think that the oil circulating inside the oil galleries of the engine, and coming out of the bearing clearances, will have any significant impact on engine cooling.  As long as there is a steady supply of oil in the bearings, and the viscosity is correct for the engine's bearing clearances, then I think the bearing temperature takes care of itself. 

On the other hand, if the oil pump is giving everything its got and the engine wants more, you are starving for oil somewhere in the engine.
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC