Fortunately, I had saved the info about the parts I used in a text file on my PC along with some notes about the belt I used as well.
I consider my setup to still be in the "proof of concept" stage since I haven't made proper spacers and IMHO the position of the tensioner could be improved slightly. With that being said, I have had no issues with the belt's behavior. The engine has been revved to 5k rpm and the tensioner does an excellent job of taking up the slack when rpms increase.
Parts summary:
Belt Length: 43 1/8" (alternator adjusted 1/2 way), 44 1/8 (alternator adjusted fully)
Dayco Belt Part #s: 5060431 (alternator adjusted 1/2 way), 5060440 (alternator adjusted fully)
Gates HD Belt Part #: K060450HD (alternator adjusted fully using spring tensioner)
Serpentine Belt Tensioner: Gates 38189
March Performance Crankshaft Pulleys 1966-A (Summit Racing: MCH-1966-A)
March Performance Water Pump Pulleys 1967-A (Summit Racing: MCH-1967A)
Additional info about the conversion from memory:
I initially thought about not using a spring tensioner, hence the two different Dayco belt numbers. I abandoned that idea after seeing how the belt behaved while revving the engine.
The water pump pulley is undersized, so the water pump will run about 1.5 times faster than the crankshaft. I talked with March Performance about an OE sized pulley, but they don't make one. I put a small amount of effort into finding a pulley from a small block ford or the 385 series engines that would work. IIRC, the water pump pulleys were either smooth (reverse water pump rotation) or the bolt pattern for the water pump was not correct. There might be an option available that will work, I just gave up and used the March Performance pulley.
The March Performance water pump pulley moves the belt forward towards the front of the car. I assume the design is like this so stock brackets won't work by default, but who knows. This means the alternator and crankshaft pulleys will need to be adjusted by distancing them from the crank and block to line up with the water pump pulley along with slightly longer bolts for the alternator brackets and crank pulley. In my case, I was able to machine the face of the v-belt pulley that came with my crank damper to align the crank pulley with the water pump pulley (see pic). IIRC, it was right at .200 for the spacing.
Even though the alternator has plenty of space from the block for the battery+ wire after adjustment, I still installed an adapter for my 3G alternator to make accessing that connection as easy as possible. Yes, those are a nut and washer being used for spacing since I haven't had the opportunity to machine something more proper.
I forgot to add that the additional thickness of the water pump pulley moved my stock 4 blade fan dangerously close to my radiator. Between that and the increased rpms the fan would see, I converted to an electric fan as noted in
another thread.
If you have any other questions about my particular conversion, let me know.
