A/F ratio gauge

[Rory428]

Just wondering how many of you guys are using air fuel ratio gauges for checking and tuning your engines. I am considering buying one, as with modern gasoline and ignition systems, not having much luck getting the spark plugs to show much color. Is anybody aware of a gauge that doesn`t require cutting and welding the headers, similar to how emission testing equipment has a long probe that slides into the tailpipes, with a temporary gauge install, as I would like to use such a gauge to get the jetting good, but don`t really want to permanently mount  a gauge inside the car, plus it would be portable, to go from one car to the other. The headers on my 347 SB Ford, already have a welded O2 sensor bung welded onto 1 header tube on each side, for use on a 5.0 EFI car, but not really wanting to modify my coated FPA headers on the 59. As for the gauge kit, any recommendations, for or against any particular brands or style (digital vs a needle or lights.) Since the Fairmont runs leaded gas, I understand that will cause problems with the O2 sensors life, so ideally, I would like to get the 59s 428 dialed in first. Thanks.

[RustyCrankshaft]

The o2 needs to be fairly close to or in the collector to be arcuate. If you don't want to modify the coated headers just put the sensor in the exhaust after the collector. There are tons of o2 sensors around these days, the Innovate still seems like a solid choice for price point as is the AEM. You can get more or less expensive depending on what you want. I've had good luck with my old AEM, it's been in a lot of projects and have been beat up and still works and uses a common wide band from a VW you can get at any parts store easy.

[jayb]

I like the one from Ballenger Motorsports, link below.  Spend the extra $50 and buy the NTK sensor.  Based on my dyno experience, the NTK sensors last a LOT longer than the Bosch sensors, when using racing gas.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/2337

[6667fan]

I would not recommend Innovate, ( have had them in several cars and they are too temperamental). When they work, they work fine but that does not happen consistently enough for me.

Sticking a sensor in the tailpipe has its downfalls. I think the best chance for accuracy is in a steady stream environment without any risk of dilution.

That is interesting what Jay shared about the Sensors.

[cleandan]

When it comes to sensor choices it is best described in three levels.
1) Jobber/hobbiest. The cheapest, less accurate, but working sensor.
2) Technician. A good sensor that has not been specifically tested for accuracy parameters and verified within a set limitation. These are usually very accurate, durable, and will do the job for the vast majority of users to a high degree of accuracy. They are around twice the cost of the jobber sensor.
3) Science lab. These are highly accurate, verified and calibrated sensors used for ultra sensitive testing and verification. They are the equivalent of a clean room device and usually far beyond the need of the majority of O2 sensor users needs. They are often 5x to 10x the cost of the jobber sensor.

The Innovate, AEM and Ballenger O2 sensors all work well and can be ordered to suit your needs, or upgraded to fill new needs as they arise.

They all offer a specific tail pipe mounted sensor holder (they look like a clamp on pitot tube) that will work with any system where you can attach the sensor holder.
The bigger issue, at least in my experience, is routing the wires in a good spot for the temporary use. Lots of tape on the doors and windows while driving....but it works well.