One to One 2x4 linkage

[6667fan]

I converted my linkage from the factory progressive some time ago to one to one but not thrilled by my design.
 
What are you guys doing who have also converted? I’m working from the factory style bell crank and using Quick Fuel carbs with Ford throttle arms. I utilized a threaded rod with heim joints and one of the factory rods to move the rear carb’s primaries. The threaded rod attached to the front carb gets pushed by the attachment on the rear carb.
Pics would be nice if willing to share.

Thanks

[Stangman]

Although I use a progressive linkage for a short time I used a one to one and I used the original
Linkage which if adjusted right just makes it. It was years ago but I’m pretty sure you can do it.

[cammerfe]

If you don't mind my asking, why do you find non-progressive linkage desirable? My first 427 had dual quads---a '64 Custom I bought new and drove as daily transportation. I ordered it with a 4.11 rear-end, and suppose it might not have bogged even with solid linkage. But I never saw the factory arrangement as any sort of handicap.

KS

[6667fan]

Ken, it’s for a strip application. On the street with a 3.08 first and 4.86s out back and an aluminum wheel there is no bog.

Stangman, I looked at filling up the back carb slider rod but thought there must be a better way. Is that what you did?

Thanks

[Stangman]

Yes I believe so but you couldn’t really notice it unless you were really looking.
Like cammer said I’m not sure if there is a benefit. I don’t know if anyone has done a back to back
With and without at the track but I would have to imagine it would be little to none. Come to think of it I think you can lengthen the rod all the way to the end of the slide in the adjuster rod.

[Posi67]

My setup is 1-1 and it's just using the factory style linkage. As mentioned, with some fooling around you can adjust the rods to achieve your desired result. As for any benefit, just seems to work better on a Drag car whereas on the street the progressive is likely easier to deal with.

[HTM101]

My set up.

[6667fan]

That is very clean. Are the black components something you made or part of a kit?

Thanks

[HTM101]

The round piece on the rear carb is an internally splined coupler I found at McMaster-Carr.  The throttle connector the heim joint is connected to, I bought from a company that sells carbs, injectors, bird catchers, etc. for dragsters.  The black angle bracket the springs are connect to at the front carb is a piece of aluminum I cut, drilled and powder coated.

[Drew Pojedinec]

I don't understand the fuss.

with both throttle pins in the original Low position, the throttle action is  1:1 or extremely close to that.
With primary carb pin in high position and secondary low, you have slight  progressive action.

[6667fan]

I’m missing a rod Drew or I would fuss with it. If the stock parts can be made to operate at a true one to one that will be good.
It seems like the last time I tried it there was something about it I did not like.

[Falcon67]

I just build mine with rod ends and 1/4" rod.  Hammer to fit, bend to suit.

[Drew Pojedinec]

A little video I made for showing 1:1 vs progressive with stock bits.

https://fb.watch/dowMI3uKs-/

[6667fan]

That was great Drew, thanks for demonstrating that.

I had posted in the private ads that I need a slider rod for the rear carb. Do you have those available individually by chance? I’m missing that one piece.

Thanks much

[Drew Pojedinec]

I have a pile of them.  I even have one where the slot is welded up a little bit  so you get 1:1 with high/low pin setups.

I'll be back to the shop late June/early July.  Email me or otherwise remind me and I'll get you taken care of.