Author Topic: POP Rocker stands  (Read 11493 times)

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frnkeore

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Re: POP Rocker stands
« Reply #75 on: September 13, 2021, 11:25:47 AM »
A picture of my block.

If that 390 had one, maybe they added it with the introduction of that engine.

Anyone have pictures of the front of the block for early engines? It would be good to know when that return hole was added.
Frank

blykins

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Re: POP Rocker stands
« Reply #76 on: September 13, 2021, 01:06:06 PM »
Here's an auction for a '59 352 block.  It has it. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254620298918
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
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502-759-1431
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frnkeore

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Re: POP Rocker stands
« Reply #77 on: September 13, 2021, 01:37:56 PM »
And another 58 block that doesn't:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154600919011?hash=item23feeecfe3:g:UfgAAOSwo6NhJ3bK

It looks like Ford found that the jiggler alone, wasn't enough to lube the timing chain.
« Last Edit: January 05, 2024, 11:41:30 AM by frnkeore »
Frank

blykins

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Re: POP Rocker stands
« Reply #78 on: September 13, 2021, 02:10:19 PM »
And another 58 block that doesn't:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154600919011?hash=item23feeecfe3:g:UfgAAOSwo6NhJ3bK

It looks like Ford found that the jiggler along, was enough to lube the timing chain.

My guess is that during that first year of FE production, they found out that something needed to be changed.  Apparently the drain hole showed up in 1959.   Lots of engines relied on certain component splash oiling, maybe this was the era of change. 

Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

frnkeore

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Re: POP Rocker stands
« Reply #79 on: September 13, 2021, 02:30:02 PM »
I didn't proof read my post. It was meant to say this:

It looks like Ford found that the jiggler alone, wasn't enough to lube the timing chain.
Frank

galaxiex

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Re: POP Rocker stands
« Reply #80 on: March 30, 2022, 08:28:27 PM »
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread.

In here I talked about getting a set of Molnar rods for my 428.
I ordered them last year and they cancelled my order. No availability.

Well I finally got a set. These came today.  :)


Now I will be able to sleep at night with these in the engine.  ;)



Every 20 minute job is 1 broken bolt away from becoming a 3 day ordeal.

Mr Woodys Garage

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Re: POP Rocker stands
« Reply #81 on: March 31, 2022, 02:26:33 AM »
As Far As The Rocker Geometry Goes, I Have BAsically What YouDo, With The Exception Of Eagle H Beam Rods.Once Everything Was Assembled And Set Up, The Harlan Sharp Rockers I Have Were Good To Go, With No Modifications Other Than Centering The Rollers On The Valve Tips.Block Has Had The Same Machining Done To It.Be Sure To Check Valve To Piston Clearance With Those Pistons And TFS Heads. The Heads Are Awesome. I Have A Set That i Purchased Soon After They Came Out. I Discovered, After Some Advise From One Of The Well Known Members Of This Forum, And Checking Clearance After/During Cam Degreeing, That The TFS Valves Do Not Play Well With The CJ Pistons. TFS Moved The Intake Valve Slightly Compared To Common FE Location The Intake Valve Radial Clearance Is Too Close To The Edge Of The Valve Reliefs In The CJ Pistons You Show In Your Photo. It Would Be Better, If You Don't Already Have The Engine Assembled, To Obtain A Set Of Modern Dished Pistons To Avoid The Clearance Issue. Please Be Sure To Do The Clay Test When You Get Around To Assembling The Engine And Degreeing The Cam. I Had To Use The Isky Fly Cutter Tool To Obtain The Proper Radial Valve Clearance. The Cutter Uses The TFS Heads To Locate, So The Clearance Is Dead On. Just One Of Those Things That Is Good To Know In Advance.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2022, 02:51:04 AM by Mr Woodys Garage »

Rory428

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Re: POP Rocker stands
« Reply #82 on: March 31, 2022, 08:38:22 AM »
Somehow I must have missed this post before, so I have a few thoughts.
First off, I would have zero concerns about using a factory Ford cast crankshaft in an engine like this. I have been racing FEs since the 70s, and over the years, I have broke about everything in a FE, stock rods, split cylinder walls, split main webbing,even tore all the main webbing out of a 105 block, while using nitrous almost 35 years ago, broke everything valve train related,etc, but I have never had a factory crankshaft break. I ran the same 1U 428 crank in my low 10 second 428 for 14 years, (the crank outlasted 2 428 blocks), and it still magged good, my 427/454 ran high 9s with a stock 428 crank, and DalePs 427/454 ran 9.6s with a 428 Ford crank, and at a lot more RPM than I turn my stuff. Not to mention, these were in 4 speed drag cars, I typically dropped the clutch at 6000 RPM or more, never an issue.
 
Concerning the drilling of the oil plug behind the distributor, I have not done that in decades, and I have never had any issues with lack of oiling of the distributor or cam gear, or timing chain set.
REgarding the stock type pistons and TFS heads, I am still running the original "428 Super" cast pistons in the standard bore 428CJ in my 59. It is currently on the engine stand, and I am in the the process of installing my new TFS heads. I have mocked up the heads, checking for piston to valve clearance, and although the larger TFS intake valves are the tight spot, at least with the mild (.528" lift) solid flat tappet cam I have been running, both the soft spring and clay method, show there is no issue, .098" min. (The exhaust has tons of room).
As for factory rods, I have used stock rods for decades, never had any issues for many years, however, when I started racing FEs in the 70s, there were not many other choices, and I have made thousands of low 10 second 1/4 mile passes with LeMans and regular C7AE=B and CJ rods with better bolts, but back then, these rods were not 1/2 century old. I did have the occasional rod failure a couple of times, but now, unless I know that the rods history, I won`t use them in a performance built. My 427/454 had Crower rods, I had Eagles in my 331 SB Ford, and my current 347 SBF has Scat. That said, the 428 CJ in my 59 still has factory 13/32" CJ rods, I am using them, because it is a fairly low mileage engine, that had been sitting around my garage for over 30 years before I decided to freshen it up for the 59. That said, if I decide to rebuild this 428 again, or modify it , I have a new set of Scat rods that I will use. I just figured that for this budget build that will not see 6000 RPM, I will roll the dice.
1978 Fairmont,FE 427 with 428 crank, 4 speed Jerico best of 9.972@132.54MPH 1.29 60 foot
1985 Mustang HB 331 SB Ford, 4 speed Jerico, best of 10.29@128 MPH 1.40 60 foot.
1974 F350 race car hauler 390 NP435 4 speed
1959 Ford Meteor 2 dr sedan. 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed Toploader. 12.54@ 108 MPH

galaxiex

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Re: POP Rocker stands
« Reply #83 on: March 31, 2022, 08:28:25 PM »
Thanks much for the thoughtful and informative reply's.  :)

I will def mock up and check P to V clearance and pay attention to valve radial clearance.

I'm using the 428 crank I currently have, and will likely stay with the Speed Pro pistons as well, unless balancing becomes an issue.
I still have yet to tear it back down and start checking everything.
Probably get started this weekend.

The hyd roller was spec'd by @blykins and I don't have the cam card in front of me at the moment,
but I recall the lift was a touch over 0.600"
I have a decent degree wheel..... it will be used....

Additional stuff I bought....
I got the POP machined and thrust bearing Billit ? timing set, and a B pump from him as well.

I'll not drill any extra holes in galley plugs ie; behind the dist, nor in the main galley for an air bleed/jiggle pin.
I kinda thought holes there were not needed, it's nice to have confirmation of that.

Also not using any rocker tins or valley pan.
I do have a nice Canton screen type windage tray I'll use, just cuz I already have it.


The Crane roller rockers have the option of oiling thru the pushrods or thru the block.
I think the Morel lifters I got from Brent are capable too, so I'm leaning to pushrod oiling.
Every 20 minute job is 1 broken bolt away from becoming a 3 day ordeal.