Question about a Tremec TKO

[fe66comet]

I have heard of 8 speed manuals being in the near future for the big three, that would be interesting.......Jon

[dubsan]

Hey Ross
Whats all that hardware behind the trannys?

Almost looks like a sway bar tied down by a couple of tractor weights. 

Get that shoulder back in battery!!!!

Larry 

[bn69stang]

Jay when i did my tremec in my 69 mach i used a standard scatter shield , the 7/8 inch spacer and a cross member from D @ D and 67-69 gt 390 clutch fork and a Mcleod clutch . It bolted right in place , no cutting , grinding and right in the center of the factory floor opening . I used a hurst compition plus shiter handle for a 68 camaro , shortened 2 inchs re-drill d the holes , it clears the dash very nicely ..

[jayb]

Cool, thanks for the info.  Could you elaborate on the 7/8" spacer?  Where did you put that?

[sixty9cobra]

The spacer goes between the tranny and the bell housing. That option would have been better than getting the shorter input in my case. TKO's come with 2 different length input shafts.

[bn69stang]

I put a Tremec TKO in my 69 mach , i used a standard scatter shield wth the 7/ 8 inch spacer , cross member from D @ D , Mcleod clutch set up . the shiter mount is in the center of the factory tunnel cut out . I purchased a hurst competition plus handle for a 68 camaro , the g m stuff bolts on where as the ford shifter is welded . I shorten d  the handle 2 inchs and re-drilled the holes . It clears the dash and im using my factory console .. oh and a 67-69 G T 390 clutch fork .

[jayb]

Thanks for the help, guys.  Does Tremec sell the spacer?

[My427stang]

Jay, there are two versions of input shaft

The long T-5 length input shaft like mentioned above uses a spacer, the short input shaft is FE length and just bolts to a standard FE bell

I use the short Ford shaft with no spacer.  You should be able to as well with the shifter that we mentioned.

[jayb]

Thanks Ross. It kind of sounds like I could get away without cutting the floor, and maybe without a special shifter, if I used the long input shaft version and the 7/8" spacer.  Or not?

[My427stang]

Maybe, I haven't done it, but then it would use a non-stock length driveshaft.  In my case I had the shaft and adding cost with both a spacer and a shaft cut didn't meet what I was trying to do.

I would guess that with the spacer you'd be close front to back, and if you bolted the shifter to the drivers side of the "nub" it'd be very close to stock location, but thats all a WAG

[sixty9cobra]

Funny the aluminum driveshaft I bought seems 1 inch too short. The 7/8 spacer would have put the shifter in the right spot 1 inch further back and make the drive shaft perfect.

[My427stang]

I am not sure why yours would be different, but here are some pics of mine.  You can see that the overall length and input shaft length are identical to the RUG-AE2 big in/out I took out of mine




I do think that the shifter, even if set back properly with the long input and a spacer will be too close to the middle and still need some sort of offset shifter

[bn69stang]

yes i think even summit has spacer as well .

[bn69stang]

hey Jay mustangs unlimited . com ,  a 65-73 mustang parts house if you order a catalog or go on line page 162 has all the tranny swap parts .

[rgb]

Late to the TKO600 party, but the Ford version is usually either 0.64 or 0.82 5th gear, WITH long input shaft.

Generally a $200 charge for the shorter input shaft...
Generally a $150 charge for the spacer...

Put the saved $200 toward a new QuickTime 6057 that is available in a deep depth.

RM-6057 7.050 FE deep (60's truck bell)
RM-6056 6.425 FE short (60's car bell)
-----
Difference 0.625 or 5/8"

As the FE w/short bell + TKO-600 puts the shifter about 3/4" of an inch forward of the Mustang position, the 5/8" deeper (truck) bell puts it about where its needed WITHOUT the expense and confusion/flex of a spacer.

Many driveshafts have enough spline movement to handle the 5/8" change, but should be verified.

Had issues with the shifter and you may too.   The stub attachment point was too high, ended up in the boot, didn't allow the bend to start low enough, was generally IN THE WAY.    Had a box of a "no stub" design made with hole for the stock style shifter shaft.    This is a game changer for the shifter and will solve your issues with a little fabrication.   Hurst could likely be welded right or left, right, forward, aft, sideways to get your shifter on the correct path down below the boot.   Or make it a real sleeper with a stock shifter handle & knob!!   If you get a TKO, I'll send you a "no stub" for grins.

If you use the 0.64 OD make sure and calculate out the speed vs. cam in 4th & 5th as its a long shift.

Roger