Author Topic: Pick my camshaft.  (Read 1519 times)

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1Bad500

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Pick my camshaft.
« on: August 13, 2021, 12:22:48 AM »
I am putting back together a 64 Gal 390 4 speed car. Just doing a rering and bearing rebuild on the stocker (since the PO stored it outside without a carb on it in a dirt lot) and want a roller cam conversion. Going to be a daily and want to pick up some HP.
64 Galaxie 500 XL, 390 FE 4-Speed  Daily Driver

chilly460

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Re: Pick my camshaft.
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2021, 08:48:53 AM »
What rear gear are you running?  I'm assuming this is a 4spd with a 2.3x first gear ratio, like a T10 or close ratio Toploader?

My427stang

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Re: Pick my camshaft.
« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2021, 09:27:15 AM »
You will get your answers as we learn more about the car, but, given a re-ring only, are you sure you want to spend that cash?

About 1K after tax with hyd roller cam and lifters, bottom gear 75 bucks, custom pushrods about 200, springs, retainers and locks another 250, and really should get end stands and new shafts at a minimum for another 300.    I love an FE roller cam, but you are sitting at 1900+ to get into the roller game unless you find a used one

I don't want to talk you out of something good, but it gets pricey!

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Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

Falcon67

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Re: Pick my camshaft.
« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2021, 10:49:09 AM »
As a counter point - you'll spend the $$$ on new springs, retainers, locks, pushrods anyway and possibly the stands.  So for any quality cam change, these costs would already be in play.  One failed flat tappet cam/lifter install with replacement cam/lifter set will come very close to the roller cam/lifter setup costs.  Break-in hassles are minimal to non-existent with a roller.  Same for transfer to another motor, or later sale.  Most pressure oil lifter can also be rebuilt, should that be a consideration.

My427stang

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Re: Pick my camshaft.
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2021, 07:58:14 AM »
As a counter point - you'll spend the $$$ on new springs, retainers, locks, pushrods anyway and possibly the stands.  So for any quality cam change, these costs would already be in play.  One failed flat tappet cam/lifter install with replacement cam/lifter set will come very close to the roller cam/lifter setup costs.  Break-in hassles are minimal to non-existent with a roller.  Same for transfer to another motor, or later sale.  Most pressure oil lifter can also be rebuilt, should that be a consideration.

Very good points, and to elaborate, I try to avoid all flat tappets in builds coming through here for exactly those reasons.  (Although my own engines are flat tappet, because the owner is a cheapo) 

However, if budget is an issue, especially a stock build, flat tappets can generally be broken in very easily and work out well with proper cam lobe and spring choice.  If any doubt, and the car is worth the money, I would also go roller
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Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

wayne

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Re: Pick my camshaft.
« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2021, 09:57:30 AM »
I have had good luck with a Lunati version of a 428 cj cam  Crower cam saver lifters and Alexs spring kit about 425.00 last one i did.It is a flat tappet and you want a roller do you have headers better intake what gear you could take the money you save on the cam and get better parts.

Gregwill16

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Re: Pick my camshaft.
« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2021, 11:32:04 AM »
+1 I don't see the value in spending double or triple for the roller setup. Use that money elsewhere to make the whole combination better.

1Bad500

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Re: Pick my camshaft.
« Reply #7 on: August 16, 2021, 06:53:20 PM »
To expand a little on what I'm doing. First the Trans is a top loader. I don't know the ratio but I will find out. The rear gear is 3.90 according to the build plate.

I'm just trying to get this on the road quickly, but I have a converted standard 2 bolt block to the side bolted block (4 bolt).  Saving up to build that block with a stroker kit and Trickflow heads/intake. I figured I could transfer everything to that build when I'm ready or am I off my rocker, pun intended? 
64 Galaxie 500 XL, 390 FE 4-Speed  Daily Driver

WerbyFord

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Re: Pick my camshaft.
« Reply #8 on: August 16, 2021, 08:11:00 PM »
So is it an 8 or an H on the build plate? That would be a 3.89 rear (no 3.90 rears)

There should be a tag on the rear with the ratio stamped too - and if there's NOT a tag, I wouldnt trust it.
Another way, you can either count revolutions or just see what RPM's you turn eg in 4th gear at 60mph.
A 3.00 gear will be about 2100rpm, a 3.89 will be more like 2800. Depends a little on tires but an easy check.

Either way, if the old cam even looks decent, given your future plans I'd just pass for now.
Any cam you get now will either be the wrong cam for the engine now, or the wrong cam for the engine later.

It's a tiny cam in that 61-65 390 for sure, 186-186 duration and .400 .400 lift, great if you want to check out the paint on the fan blades while it's idling but that's about it. If it already had headers & intake the answer would be different of course.