Which oil pan? & windage tray or not?

[Nightmist66]

I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators.  We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator.  With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.

Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.

Where do you typically mount the accumulator?  Does it work to move it to the trunk or up under the dash?

David, I like to put them in front of the radiator.  On my Mustang, it is under the hood latch.  Needs to be close to the engine in my opinion.  Years ago, I got Precision Oil Pumps to do the billet filter brackets with an extra 1/2" pipe hole.  He sells them.  I use a 45° fitting and #10 line to get right into the main galley.  The FL-1A filter will not flow backwards, as some do.  I recommend the regular Motorcraft filter for the best results.

Thanks Blair.  Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?

Hey David, as Blair mentioned POP offers an adapter with 1/4" & 1/2" NPT ports. If you already have one of his with the single 1/4" NPT, you can modify it yourself. I did that to mine. Drill out the existing 1/4" hole to 1/2" NPT and relocate another 1/4" NPT hole behind for a pressure gauge. Also, the factory 427 dual port adapter has the 1/4" & 1/2" NPT holes. I found a factory dual port for my setup this time to keep a more factory look. One benefit of the POP adapter is that the oil filter will be perpendicular to the pan rail for better header clearance. The factory adapters are canted.

[427HISS]

I have the Canton road race pan, with the windage, scraper (did not use it)

It has a 6" deep, 13" wide by 10" long sump for an 8 quart system capacity. "T" style sump to increase capacity without losing ground clearance. This pan requires our 15-821 pickup. Love the quality !  My 427 Cobra is low to the ground, so the "T''  style adds two more quarts of oil with extra low  clearance. I have a newer Milodon FE "T" pan. It was used on the engine dyno but will be using my Canton. We could look up the price if you are interested.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/products/15-820-for-ford-332-428-fe-front-t-sump-road-race-pan.html

[cjshaker]

Thanks Blair.  Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?

That side oiler passage is pretty small....
[/quote]

Pretty sure that front passage tap into the main galley is 1/2" if I'm not mistaken? That is the biggest port available to tap in to. The side plugs are much smaller, but it's a good place to get a pressure reading from, and it reads pressure directly at the main bearings. I prefer that over a reading at the filter adapter.

[blykins]

Thanks Blair.  Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?

That side oiler passage is pretty small....

Pretty sure that front passage tap into the main galley is 1/2" if I'm not mistaken? That is the biggest port available to tap in to. The side plugs are much smaller, but it's a good place to get a pressure reading from, and it reads pressure directly at the main bearings. I prefer that over a reading at the filter adapter.
[/quote]

Correct, the fitting on the front face of the block next to the timing cover is the biggest passage there.

[Nightmist66]

The side plugs are much smaller, but it's a good place to get a pressure reading from, and it reads pressure directly at the main bearings. I prefer that over a reading at the filter adapter.

I wouldn't think you would see any measurable pressure drop checking at the side plugs vs the filter adapter on a sideoiler. They are on the same "circuit". I would agree it would be worth checking at the mains on a top oiler if you had the option. Us top oiler guys aren't so fortunate. 

[66FAIRLANE]

Just as an aside & something to watch if you make your own. This is something I found when I made my own 'T' pan. The very front face of the sump is laid back toward the bottom. I cut this off when I fitted the front plate for my 'T' section so it basically continued straight down and met the very bottom at a right angle. I welded straight across.

Everything was fine & I put the engine back in the car. Not sure what I was doing but I bounced on the front suspension....knock, knock. Yep, the fore & aft movement of the sway bar during suspension travel means it now hits the sump! That's what the laid back area was for! I got around it by shortening the sway bar links to reposition it. But while the engine is out this time I will be laying that area back.