Coming along, looks like a lot of work. If you’re going to run A or B (even C) I would do a full cage while it’s apart. Remove everything from the chassis and interior that’s not needed and it should come in around 2,900lb. Add 170 for a driver then weight bars for class. My car in A needs to weigh 3,274 and when it was finished it was 2,920lb (I have 154lbs in the trunk)
By the way I was able to fit the 30x9 radial Hoosier slicks (the one with the smaller roll out) in the stock fenders without cutting. I needed to order the CalTrac with the extra 1 1/2” ride height to make it work. The bias tires 29x9 rub because of tire growth. Most of the Mustang racers cut some of the leading edge off for tire clearance. (Need to reconstruct the lip) I also used a BFH on the inside of the wheel wells by the rear seat sides and the fronts. Watch your rim back space because CalTrac leafs are a little wider than stock.
Hope your out testing soon.

When I finished the car it was 2,920lb without driver, I didn’t have access to 4 corner scales. To fit A/SA class it needs to be 3,274lb with me in the car. I added 154lbs to the trunk to make weight.
I have aluminum heads and intake, light weight wheels and tires but it’s partially offset by the extra weight of the BBM iron block.

hbstang,  On the Shelby I’m currently running Landrum https://landrumspring.com/ front coil springs 18”x5” 200lb. These were difficult to install, 2” longer than stock but I needed the ground clearance for those old style Hooker race headers. They work good and I haven’t dragged the headers at all.
I just recently ordered new REF step headers and I should have 2 or 3 more inches of ground clearance and I plan on cutting a coil or two off the springs to bring the front end down some.
When installing new springs you should let them settle in for a while before cutting any off, there are also spacers in case your too low.
I ordered through Reinhardt performance https://rinehartsperformance.com/racing they can get you the right springs for your application.
Keep posting pictures.

A quick little note regarding the discussion of aftermarket heads and who’s are better etc.  I bet not to many know the current B/S record holder is a ‘70 Ford Mustang 428 equipped with factory iron cobra jet heads. Stock does not allow porting of the heads and in B/S his car weighs 3290lb. Car ran a 10.08 @ 131.

Made some changes in the off season to get ready for 2026. I changed the Calvert rear springs (just the back half) to the +1 1/2” ride height to get some Hoosier 30” radials in without cutting the fenders. I also pulled the rear end and replaced the collapsed spring perches with new heavy duty ones fully boxed in. Since I was having timing light issues with multiple marks (I think from MSD unit) I locked out the distributor which gave me a single steady mark for setting my timing. I also tried a PCV valve to cure the oil seepage around the distributor seal and dipstick tube.
The PCV was set up from the back of the manifold to a 4hole under carb spacer, it seemed to run okay when I fired up the car but it only lasted 1 run before it became a big vacuum leak (stuck?) and the car wouldn’t run right.
I threw away a couple of practice runs learning how to do a burnout on new radials and dealing with the PCV problem. I pulled the PCV off and went back to the open spacer I had been using. First round of eliminations with no real data I dialed it soft at 10.30. My reaction times had been pretty good on the radials and I had a .010 light, caught the other car and took a little too much stripe breaking out with a 10.297 at only 119mph.
Next race planned is Las Vegas double divisional in April.

C9zx, I’m using 7/16 Manton pushrods which fit after a little clearancing. I marked the push rods with blue dye and rotated the engine over to find any interference, then opened the passages for clearance. The push rods were fine at lift but rubbed when on the cam base. The dye left tell tale marks in the intake and on the push rods which made it easy to know where to adjust. Different heads and rockers will have more or less interference and it’s a good idea to check during assembly.

No, I had them under a “powered by ford” chrome cover. However with all the different valve covers available you should double check to make sure.