The car had sat for many years and not sure if the cam had ever been broke in properly. running poorly and two lifter/lobes were scored real bad.
So, out came the engine and total clean and hone etc.
Need the cam or cant put the car back together....... :'(

Thanks I’ll check it

I have this problem with getting a good seal between my surge tank and the intake manifold. Seams like maybe the bottom edge of the manifold is pitted heavily and maybe eroded from leaking over the years.
I am thinking of pulling the manifold and lightly fly cut the surface to get it flat and no pitting.

Has anyone else had this issue?
Any help would be appreciated

I have a perpetual dripping from the thermostat connection that I have not been able to get rid of. It is driving me crazy and I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and has a sure fire fix for it?

Thank you

Today I adjusted the valve lash to .018 and rest the timing to 18 BTDC.
I adjusted the the carburetors to 1&1/4 turns out, this produced the highest vacuum 32hg.
Adjusted the idle to 850rpm.
The car performed without issue and pulled hard as far as I wanted to push it! What a difference on the top end performance.
Thank you very much. I feel much bettter about the car and have no concerns now for valve float or sticking. It really runs great now!!!

I am unsure of the cam as the person who built the engine died 10 years ago and all the engine details were lost.
It has cast iron components with what looks to be original rockers (they are stamped steel).
From what I was told internally the engine was built to original specs. But again I would need to check it

Here is what I did today guy's.
1- checked TDC with new piston stop tool- was 1 degree different, I checked it again and was 1/2 degree so i called it good to go.
2- Replaced the Petronix
3- Replaced Cap & Rotor
4- Checked timing and was at about 18 but every few seconds the timing was moving 5-8 degrees. checked wires again all were tight and inserted into the can and plugs correctly, the car definitely ran better in the garage, so I took it for a drive and it ran much better, pulled hard with some spots of hesitation/misfiring but no back firing and the engine was definitely willing to run the RPM's up without falling on itself like it did the day before.
I was extremely happy with these results, however, I felt like there was something I was missing because it still had hesitation and a slight misfire.
So then I did the following:
5-Rest the timing to 15 BTDC, and I noticed out of the corner of my I a spark jumped from the number 5 spark plug connection on the cap to the front float bowl on the carburetor!so I took a small screw driver and touched the top of the wire at the cap and when I got close to the carb with the screw driver shaft it arced to the carb, I checked the #1 cylinder and same thing happen.
I checked all the wires and only #5 and #1 were arcing on occasion. so i attributed the misfiring to that.
6- I added a 1/16 rubber spacer between the cap and carburetor to help with insulation. I know they are most likely arcing to each other but I first wanted to try with a simple fix.
Started the car and it was definitely a different car, idle was more consistent, checked the timing still at 15 with an occasional blip but it was remarkably better.
Throttle response was considerably better.
Took it for a test drive and the normal acceleration was very good with a rare misfire but overall ran very well, turned around and heading back to the house i put my foot in it and it was unreal, don't even know what to say other than we taint in Kansas anymore!
It lost traction for about 30 feet and then pulled like a brute (with that rare misfire) all the way until i got out of it at about 4500 in 4th gear because I wouldn't have been able to slow the car down enough to make my driveway:)
there is still a small misfire that I think is the arcing between those two wires but it was very exciting to see my car
finally start to run very close to the way it should.
Today I bought a new set of wires and will install them tomorrow. hopefully that will fix the misfire issue, It is very tight between the top of the spark plug wires and the bottom of the carburetor, do they make a lower profile distributor ao i can gain some clearance? or should i add a small riser to the carburetors?
I want to thank each of you for all your input and direction to help me with my car! Everyone on this forum has been awesome and i really appreciate the help. It has also been very fun to work on the car with probably like 500 years of experience helping me.
thanks a lot gentlemen!
Also,I own a fishing tackle company and if anyone of you guys fish or has someone that is into fishing and need any lures send me a message and I will take care of you.
My web page is in my bio (acmetackle.com)
i will post the results after i replace the spark plug wires.
Than You!!

Hey Guy's,
I have attached a picture of the module inside the cap. Getting the cap out from under the carburetor was a bit difficult! no clearance 
Here is what i have done/checked today:
1- There is no control box for the ignition.
2- I have drained the fuel and replaced with VP Racing 110, thanks for the tip John, Also to the valve train questions / suggestions, I cannot say if it set for long periods of time without running or if they were ever decompressed during storage. I believe longest without running may have been 6 months?
3- I bought a new Ignition Module to swap out the one in the photo
4- Double checked firing order and it was correct
5- Made sure #7 & #8 wires are not running close together or crossing over each other in parallel path
6- Purchased piston stop to check TDC accuracy of my balancer/pointer
Tomorrow:
1- Replace Ignition Module
2-Replace Cap & Rotor
3- Check TDC / Set if needed
4- Recheck Timing and set to 15 degrees BTDC
5- Check valve lash and set to .020 cold?
5- Test run/drive to see how it runs (I will report back to everyone tomorrow)
i have attached a couple photos of the car ( I like my license plate, although right now it doesn't really apply )