When the weather heats up, you might try running it with the hood off or at least 1" spacers at the hinges, to make sure there is enough air flowing threw it.

Then, the first thing I would do, is put as small a pulley on the water pump, to increase the flow.

The addition of the thermostat, increasing temp, maybe says there isn't enough flow for the "that" radiator but, the fins may be to many and or to thick, not letting enough air threw.

I know you get it, and in general, a 10 degree split is a decent cam for the head, but is 42 degrees of overlap at .020 and 7 at .050 right, then consider lash effects?  I'd want a reason or two to pick something like that with a head that can use some help to pull on the port (especially if the intended use needed it) and I'd want to know compression before I flirted telling a guy it would be happy.

Food for thought:
First, I never said my cam would be optimal, for anything!
But, I believe my cam specs will give better fuel mileage, and higher hp, above above 4k. As well as be a bit better on octane tolerance, up to 10/1 CR using a 4° adjustment.

That's assuming Brent's would be 109 LSA +4° but, he didn't say.

Average hp to 5.8k would be very close.

Cam challenge anyone?

thank you. My 2 trim pieces are BADLY corroded so, I was thinking of doing that, too.

Tell me about your power steering. I need to convert mine.

I like this Howards cam suggested by Frnkeore:

252342-10 CL252342-10 265 265 230 230 .560 .560 110 106 .022 .022

Is anyone using this cam? Id like to know how the idle and idle vacuum is.

I take it that you don't want to measure all the things that are being suggested and/or you want it ASAP?

If so, this would be a good "safe" shelf type cam with a CR of 9.5 - 9.7 and good pump gas. You can run it at 10/1 if you retard the timing 4° to 112 ICL.

Call Howards and ask for Kirk. Tell him you want the following:

Intake lobe - bf230320 265 230 0.320
Exhaust lobe- bf240337 275 240 0.337
with a LSA of 114 and a ICL of 108

You'll have .030 more valve lift on the ex side so, make sure you account for that, when setting up the springs.

Have them send that cam info to Competition Products (they own Howards) and order it from them. Make sure you get the lifters from them, also. You'll get free shipping that way.

I just ordered a HFT & lifters, last week, it was $360 shipped. Make sure you get their lifters and use high zink engine oil.

We are going to need pictures.

Glad you caught that Brent, I changed it. My dyslexia got me.

Yes, you have to close the intake valve later (IVC) to lower DCR.

For power brakes, you can add a electric vacuum source. That's what I did to keep from converting from vacuum wipers, to electric.

Here are a couple of Howards cams that are probably in the range your looking for:

252342-10 CL252342-10 265 265 230 230 .560 .560 110 106 .022 .022 1,13

251672-08 CL251672-08 275 275 240 240 .589 .589 108 104 .022 .022

Custom cams are the same price so, since you need more ex duration, you could substitute the 240 duration lobe, for the 230. 

These are the smallest SFT cams that Howards offers in SFT. The smaller one is more cam than the famous 360 to 4v 427 LR HP cam and depending on your CR, could cause to high of DCR.

The biggest problem in SFT, is their short .020 duration that can cause problems with DCR but, you can mitigate that by opening up the LSA. But, that effects the idle and idle vacuum.  It's a real balancing act

I think Howards are the best choice on FT cams, as their cores and lifters are the best you can get. AND, they have cores in stock now (I just called). They were out of stock for over a year.