My Suggestion Would Be To Drain The Oil, And Replace The Oil And Filter Before You Do ANYTHING Else Involving Turning The Engine Over. You Dont Want The Oil Pump Pumping The Water/Coolant Thats Potentially In The Bottom Of The Pan Through The Engine. If You Have A Bore Scope, Take A Loook Inside The Cylinder That The Coolant Had Hydrolocked. You May Have To Turn It Over A Bit To Get The Debris Out Of It. Spray A Little WD40 In It, And Turn It Over A Few Times. Then Add A Slight Amount Of Oil In The Cylinder, And Spin It Over Again For A Few Times. Then, To Save Un Necessary Tear Down Work, Hook Up A Compression Guage On That Cylinder, And See If It Has Some Compression. You May Also Try  Removing The Radiator Cap, And Introducing Compressed Air Into The Cylinder At Bottom Dead Center,  (With An Air Adapter Like You Would Use To Hold The Valves Shut While Changing Springs),And See If It Holds Or Whether Air Is Escaping Through The Radiator. Best Case, Its An Intake Gasket That Failed, Worst Case, A Split Cylinder, Failed Head Gasket, Or An Issue With The Cylinder Head Being Cracked Or Rotted Out. A Pressure Test Will Answer A Few Questions, And Give You An Idea Of Where To Start Tearing It Apart. Please Be Sure And Drop That Oil Thats Probably Contaminated With Coolant (Check The Dipstick) Before You Turn It Over Any 
 More. Hope Its Something Simple To Correct, And Not Much Damage Has Been Done.

I Happen To Have One Of Those Converters I Bought From The Crawfords 2 Years Ago, And Am Not Planning On Using It. 515-556-6484 It Has Been Refreshed And Is Ready To Go.

Called This Morning And Double Checked Reservations With The Motel. Everything Is As I Stated In The Post Above, And The Room I Reserved Is Ready For Me When We Arrive For The Event. There Are So Many Sites And Goofy "Services" That Rob People Making Reservations. Its Best To Actually Contact The Front Desk At Any Motel, And Book Directly With Them. Dont Have To Pay Till You Arrive, And Usually A Much Better Experience. See You Guys In April.

Yes, I Was Off By A Year. (Age And Radiation Does Mean Things To A Guy.)
  I Modified My Response Above To Keep Information Correct. Nothing Worse (Almost) Than Faulty Information Being Shared As Fact.

The "Snake Covers Add To The Look, But The Finned Ones Are Just As Nice In My Opinion. The Spacers Are Hardly Noticable. He Makes These In Various Thickness' These Are !" Thick

They Will Not Clear. However, As Seen In The Attatched Photo, Medice Makes Some Great Valve Cover Spacers That Will Gain You The Clearance You Need To Use The Covers That You Want. We Went The Extra Mile And Machined These Out So They Become Permanently Mounted To The Head And Intake When The Valve Covers Are Removed. Worked Out Nicely. Contact Dan Medice To Buy A Set Directly From Him And Save The E Bay Hassles.

The World Famous FE Continues To Amaze! 67 Years Old, And Going Strong!   Single 4V To Boot!   https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1ZG3RyXg8i/                                                                               

The Date Code Is 6H19 Block is C6ME-A A Scratch
Heads And Intake, Heads C6AE 425 G, And Heads C7AE-A
Heads are air pump/smog. with left side tubing and valve in place. air pump is not stuck and turns. same for passenger side heat riser valve.
carb is List-6444 may or may not be original carb, converted to manual choke. not stuck.
plugs all look ok, with exception of cylinder #6, which had some oil on it, but not crusty or sludged up.
had it running briefly in the car before it was removed.