I am using an aluminum water pump that is not polished or coated.If it gets dirty I spray it with brake clean.

I used one made by Sturtevant tool at work for 40 years.It was mechanical and used a threaded center shaft and a marked rotating plate on the shaft.It had a moving upper arm that bore against the valve spring and had a 1\2" square hole in it to accept a beam type torque wrench.You simply set your installed height with the plate ,put the spring in and pulled on the torque wrench until the "clicker" in the top arm went off.The pressure was 2X what the torque wrench read.When I retired in 2015 we were still using the same one I ordered in 1975. Every student I had for 40 years used that tool.I imagine it is still in production? 

I have a couple that Crane marketed years ago.Black plastic trays with holes for lifters,pushrods etc.Seems to me it would be easy to make all that type of thing you want with pieces of 2 X 12 and a router.

Scott in case you didnt get your PM.I will take those pistons at 75 dollars if you still have them.I need a mailing addy.

Please note that when the valve hits the clay you will compress the spring in a dry lifter.Take two old lifters, empty them out and replace the piston and spring with a spacer cut to give you about zero to .005" lash.This is very easy to do and has served me well for better than 50 years .Alternately you can make an adjustable pushrod and set your dry hydraulic for zero lash.Either method is satisfactory.

Can anyone tell me where I can buy a set of the stock type FE wrist pin locks? I have a NOS set of 390 Ford pistons and wrist pins but the little envelope holding the locks is gone. My machine shop cant help.Thanks.

Very nice! What engine\trans will you use?

Thank you very much for your help. That is a very useful chart.Generally when I need a driveshaft I find a used one that is too long and modify it as needed,I just havent had much luck finding long old driveshafts lately.