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FE Technical Forum / Re: Roller Rockers and Baldy Valve Covers
« on: May 16, 2020, 10:07:24 PM »
All good info. Thanks much everyone!
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I know my roller tipped non adjustables will.
Thanks everyone for the valuable feedback.
Has anyone tried the inexpensive rocker systems I see on ebay? I've seen them in both aluminum and stainless steel, advertised under two names, Procomp Electronics or Speedmaster. The aluminum setup goes for $159-227 and the stainless goes for $253-361. ( I see used stock setups for around that on ebay.)
Both are complete setups with end supports and seem to look good in the pictures. Just wondering if anyone has tried them.
Thanks for that.
Just to add to the experience on these, my dad gave me a set of the steel Speedmasters.
Nothing has broke on them, however... after a few weeks I developed an oil consumption issue on the order of 1qt every 100 miles. Thinking I had broke a ring or rings (the bottom end has a lot of miles on it) I started getting into the engine. When I pulled the valve covers I had found that 3 of the 4 shaft end plugs had fallen out. I had thought it was my bad for not checking that they were tight, but then when I put them back in I found out the threads in the shafts are cut wrong for those 3 and the plugs will just screw into the shaft indefinitely. Turns out the oil consumption was from the tops of the heads being in an oil bath. Since replacing the plugs with ones with a shoulder that will tighten the oil consumption has gone away.
I am currently still running the setup while I build my new engine, but needless to say I won't be using Speedmaster again.
MustangTek is a pretty good resource, but one thing many people miss is the warning explanations at the end of the sections and the warning symbols next to the individual entries. In the case of the Autolite 1.19 carb there is a warning triangle with exclamation, which tells us the posted information hasn't been confirmed. Since the physical size of the Venturi & throttle bores match the 550 cfm Holley, and are smaller than the 600 Holley, I think it's pretty safe to estimate that 670cfm is probably extremely optimistic. I also trust Hawkrod's application info in the post I linked, the 1959 model year fits more in line with the "boxcar" numbering system. I don't have an original edition Mercury Parts book from the '50's, so I don't have anything to confirm the application either. Many of these early performance parts remain a bit of a mystery. I'm just glad people had the foresight to save some of this stuff and people like Bob S. and Jay have put effort into testing them so we have some accurate data.how to take a screen shotcertificity.com
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This mind project, is it a street type deal or drag race or street/strip?
If your going drag racing with a clutch you may want to consider
an aluminum wheel.
Not the best plan for a heavy car at low speed, but
they give a much softer hit at the line. Which helps with
traction and reduces the chance of ripping stuff off the car.
If this is a street deal than a steel wheel will be a much smoother
ride at low speed.
What type of clutch are you considering?
Also both the c3 and c4 blocks i have/had you will notice that only the #3 and #4 main's have the 3 rib webbing where as the D3 and D4 and some 105 blocks have the webbing on mains #2, #3, and #4.
Where would you attach these rocker shafts? The stands would need to be on the intake, the valve covers will need to a bunch wider. Besides, they have similar engines already... called 460's.
You're right that the rocker system would end up in the manifold area, You probably missed that I stated that in the last paragraph of my initial posting. However, I think the rocker cover could stay the same dimension because the area of the manifold that the rocker would move to is already under the valve cover due to the fe's unique, what I call 1/2 of a head, design. The drawback is that the head and manifold would end up looking like every other out there, instead of the look that only the fe design has.
Also I was trying to stay with a traditional wedge shape with an inline valve arrangement and did not want to go to a canted valve layout like the 429/460 even though it is a better breathing configuration, IMO.
I wanted to stay within the traditional fe architecture but I can see that it would stray too far from that. In the end I do agree it would be too much work with little payoff, especially since I was aiming the design toward low riser heads.
Where would you attach these rocker shafts? The stands would need to be on the intake, the valve covers will need to a bunch wider. Besides, they have similar engines already... called 460's.
Increasing the FE valve angle would certainly help flow, although the effect of the flow hitting the cylinder wall would negate that to some extent. Modern design is more about increasing the valve angle, so that the flow into the cylinder is not compromised as much by the cylinder wall, and raising the port/intake to match.
If you were to try to increase the FE valve angle, I think you are correct that the whole rocker and shaft situation would change. If you are going to try to improve flow, its a lot easier to just raise the port, and you still keep the benefit of the fairly steep 12 degree valve angle.
I was thinking mostly about improving flow in the low riser heads. I didn't think it through enough, however. Because of the necessary rocker arm system relocation, none of the existing low rise manifolds would work with any new head with an increased valve angle. It would be counterproductive for a number of reasons, cost being one but also the traditional look of the unique FE head design would surely change. Don't want that. Have to leave well enough alone for now.
Increasing the FE valve angle would certainly help flow, although the effect of the flow hitting the cylinder wall would negate that to some extent. Modern design is more about increasing the valve angle, so that the flow into the cylinder is not compromised as much by the cylinder wall, and raising the port/intake to match.
If you were to try to increase the FE valve angle, I think you are correct that the whole rocker and shaft situation would change. If you are going to try to improve flow, its a lot easier to just raise the port, and you still keep the benefit of the fairly steep 12 degree valve angle.
At your 400 hp level those rods will do fine.
You can spin it to 6500 as much as you want if you have the springs for it.
Now it may not stay spinning at some point.
As the ad says, you f@#k it you buy it.
I use a set of C7 rods in my 428.
I'm Howie from Nova Scotia, that is where that comes from.