Hello All,

This was BaT’s response:

“ Thank you so much for taking the time to submit your Saleen Mustang and thanks for your patience while we get back to you to provide some additional insight during this busy time. It looks to be a neat example and I'm sorry that we won't be moving forward.
 
To give you some additional perspective, we are a curated marketplace and are very selective with the cars we accept for auction. We are simply inundated with submissions of great vehicles at this time, and our curation team tends to favor examples with a clean Carfax history and fewer modifications when considering submissions of these Saleens. Unfortunately, our current volume means we are often faced with the difficult decision of turning down good cars from motivated sellers like yourself.

We appreciate the merits of your car and our decision does not mean it isn't desirable. We wish you the best of luck with the sale and hopefully we'll have the opportunity to work with you in the future.

Thank you for understanding. ”

Hello All,

OK- new development....  Bring-a-trailer (Oddly) has declined to activate the auction.  Hmmm.  Anyway, I guess for now, I am officially posting the car for sale on here!!!  I had planned on the reserve on the auction to be $95,000 (which would still not be a break even for just parts alone!).

Please let me know if your interested.  Send me your questions, comments, and/or offers!

I will try and post all answers to any questions on this thread so everyone has the information.

Thanks again!

Im creating the Auction as we speak!  Stay tuned

Purchased with the intent to install, but life happens....  This is the Dailey engineering dry sump pan with integrated pump made specifically for the Cammer engine.  Also included in the sale will be All of the AN fittings needed (black), Dry Sump Oil tank (2.3 gallons) and catch can (Both From Dry Sump Solution- which Dailey engineering partners with) and all of their associated mounting brackets.  Everyting is still brand new, never used and with tags still on them.

https://daileyengineering.com/ford/ford-fe-cammer/


https://www.drysumpsolutions.com/product-page/ara1-2-3-gallon-tank

https://www.drysumpsolutions.com/product-page/ara1-4-tank-breather-can

https://www.drysumpsolutions.com/product-page/ara1-oil-tank-mounting-bracket-set


Asking $5,000 Firm plus shipping.  Accept paypal and can answer any additional questions you may have on it. 

Hey guys (and gals).

Wanted to throw this one up here for a little discussion.

Haven't pulled the transmission yet, but had an interesting thing happen last week.  I had a mobile locksmith come to the house to make me a second transponder key. When I purchased the can, it only came with one key and I need a second transponder key for a little side project I will discuss at a later time (once I have finished it).

So in preparation for the locksmith, I pulled the car out of the garage into the driveway.  Its important to note that I did not rev the engine, just started it...... backed it out and let it run at idle for about 15 minutes.  I only let it idle to get the fluids moving around as it spends large periods of time just sitting.

I had noticed after the 15 minutes that there were NO Oil Drips at all.....  while it was idling, for the full 15 min.  I then shut the engine off and the car sat in the driveway in the same spot for another 3 hours.  After the 3 hours, I checked again and there was no oil at all.

I am 100% sure

Now for the interesting part.  After the locksmith had gone, I had to pull the car into the garage again.....  however, this time since it was going to be a while before starting again, I revved the engine up to about 2500 RPM just to raise the oil pressure in the accumulator before shutting the switch and locking in the oil charge for the next time I start the car.  When I shut the car off, I noticed a few drips on the garage floor.

Sooooo...... 

1)  car does not leak oil just sitting as previously thought.

2)  car does not leak oil at idle (1000 RPM)

3) car does start to leak oil when the RPM's are raised- in this example, 2500 RPM

This to me sounds like the rear main seal is good.  It seems like excess crankcase pressure is pushing oil past the rear main seal at elevated RPM's?

Its worth noting that both of the Valve Covers have 1.5" to 2" breather tubes coming out of them and I put K&N style breather filters on them (as I was told the OEM breather caps were very restrictive.....  Have not seem any oil or oily residue at all on the top of the engine, so none is getting through the breather caps..... 

The valley of the Cammer block does not have the hole provisions for lifters, so there is no venting or pressure under the intake manifold....

The front timing chain cover connects to the oil pan in the front of the engine and each head has a 2" round passage in the front which would allow crankcase pressure to be directed from the front of the oil pan, up through the timing chain cover, through the round passage on the drivers and passenger head and out the breather tubes on the valve covers.  Doesnt seem super restrictive.

The only thing I can think of is of I remove the breather filters on each breather tube on the valve covers and look down into the tubes, its not wide open.  There is a metal seal in the middle of each tube with only a small triangle shaped piece pressed down a little.  I am thinking this is so you don't accidentally drop something down there while filling the car up with oil.  I wonder if this is too restrictive.  I am thinking of pulling each tube and then drilling a grid pattern of small holes to allow more pressure to escape?

I am rambling now.  What do you guys think?  Does it sound like excess crankcase pressure?  I want to test, but unsure how (what to block off while testing or what not to).

Also, what is normal or acceptable crankcase pressure in a ford FE?  I run like 11 quarts of oil with the accumulator, so not much room (if any) between the windage tray and the oil when engine is off,  I am guessing with the size of a Cammer engine, most of that oil will be pumped up to the top and be draining back down when running so engine oil level will be much lower when the engine is running.

Alot of information here.  Any thoughts???/?  Greatly appreciated   

(Text from a message (PM) I sent- Didn't want to just post pictures without any point of reference)


The Ford FE distributor from MSD comes with 2 O-Rings in the box when you purchase it.

There is a larger "V shaped" (for lack of a better description) which the instructions have you install at the top.  This larger angled O-ring is the one that seals the distributor hole at the intake manifold.....  the second O-ring is not mentioned in the instructions at all, so I never installed it.

Searching online, many people asked the same question....  why a second O-ring in the box?  Some say they put it under the angled one for extra diameter, some leave it out all together (say its an extra), etc.

I pulled the distributor on the SOHC tonight to install a high temp silicone band at the top of the distributor (under the V shaped/Angled one) to see if it would seal a bit tighter.  I don't know if you remember, but this intake manifold was the "prototype" used by Robert Pond when he was working with the foundry /Machine shop at the time he was going to start offering them for sale.

When I pulled the distributor tonight, I looked down the hole and under the intake manifold, I saw that the hole that is in the top of the block for the distributor to pass through has a machined lip around it (as if it were meant to mate with that second O-Ring)?  Is that a place on FE's where an O-ring usually goes?  It would make sense as it would prevent some/most of the oil from in the crankcase from splashing up into the valley of the block.

Also, I had noticed that the witness marks on the distributor gear where they mate with the stub cam gear were not in the middle of each tooth...  Not bad, but slightly higher than the center of the tooth.  My thought is also if the 2nd O ring was added, it would lift the distributor up a few millimeters and probably lead to a more central mesh with the gears.

I installed it and had planned to re-check the timing tomorrow

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cAxa2rgN36uFJDzC9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eBoVqxEUTVWNUTuP6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KtWBnbttHap85XRFA

LOL.  Well.... slips from the track may need to wait.  Finally took the car out for a few miles after warming it up and still have an oil leak.  Its better mind you, but still there.  No regrets on pulling the pan and valve cover as I truly believe the original oil leak was a few different oil leaks making 1 really bad looking leak.  Oil pan is sealed and is dry.  Valve cover gasket is still dry, but as Jay said....  I will keep an eye on it and slightly tighten the bolts if any gasket shrinkage is detected....

This last leak is coming from the back of the block somewhere....  Still dripping down behind the backing plate and the block.  As much as it truly sucks to have to pull the transmission, driveshaft, exhaust, clutch, etc........  Its almost a relief to know that I have chased the pesky leak to 1 specific area.

I will take the time to pull all apart and clean it up while inspecting.  This will be a combo of fixing an oil leak while cleaning up the flywheel, bellhousing, etc.  I will keep you all posted, but the pan and valve cover re-do was well worth it and worked perfectly!