Gonna order some new custom rims  for my 66 Fairlane. I put the crites rear spring relocation kit in. I have 15x10 with 6 in. backspacing on it now. So I know that part. I need to know about size for the 5 bolt pattern.I know I can tell them what car I have and they could look it up, but I want to know for myself. I want to order some craigers 5 spoke but with custom backspacing  needed for back I'm gonna have to see about who and where I can get the right size rear wheel. I live on the west coast of canada and all local tire shops are telling me good luck, especially about craigers, not much help.Thank-you.

Thanks for all the help. I will start by pulling out the trans. and bellhousing and check the back of engine for leaks. I would still hope to get some suggestions for an engine builder for my fe in Vancouver b.c. area if that's what I have to do in case the leak is indeed the rear main seal. Thanks again!

Sorry for the long post. I had a 482 built for me in 2005 from a well known engine builder in the southern us. I have had a few life challenges since 2005 that's why there is hardly any miles on it. There is about 400 or so miles on it, no racing. Genesis iron block ,elderbrock alum. heads, 2x4, scat stroker crank, diamond pistons, comp cams hyd. roller cam, erson roller rocker setup. The paperwork from the builder said no warranty for rear main seal leaks. They never discussed this with me when I was ordering engine. Engine has leaked oil out of rear main seal area almost from day 1,but only a tiny bit when 1st ran. Noticed a few drops under car after shut down. Anyways, after I had drove it a bit, leak got a little more. I had a local mechanic who knows these engines well, he has a couple of stock ford 427 and 1 he used to race, to change the rear main seal for me. He changed the seal 3  times and the oil leak got a little bit more each time. He said he tried every method he knew. He checked everywhere else on the engine to make sure oil leak wasn't coming from somewhere else. He even used dye. I guess I won't know for sure until engine is out of car. It now leaves a small puddle every time I have ran it. He told me that the next step is to pull engine out and take it to an engine builder to pull apart to fix oil leak. He then retired and moved away and I don't know any other  fe mechanics around here. Since then I have learned about scat cranks, early fe scat cranks coming with no grooves cut into rear of crank to help oil from leaking out of rear main seal. I learned this from reading the definitive guide to fe rear main seal install posted on this forum a while back. I'm guessing that my year 2005 scat crank in my 482 has no grooves cut into rear of crank, contributing to my rear main oil leak. I'm gonna pull engine soon to try and get this fixed. I'm assuming engine will need complete tear down, if this is indeed the source of the leak, remove crank  to get machined rear grooves cut in, inspect  all other parts and put back together with new bearings, seals and gaskets. Dyno test engine to tune it. I am no engine builder but know  a bit about fe motors. ? #1- Does this sound about right to fix my oil leak if it is rear main seal leak ? Any help or suggestions from this forum would be greatly appreciated . ? #2- I 've read posts here from members who are in the vancouver, b.c., canada area. Could any members from there recommend an engine builder, machinist in the vancouver,b.c. area that can do this work for me or do I have to look down in the u.s. to get this work done? Engine is in my 66 fairlane 4- speed. Thanks!     

Hello. I have a 482 dual 4 in my 66 fairlane. Original tank has dent in bottom so I had a rad. Shop coat tank with some product that I think was baked on long time ago.I been thinking about running a return line system with reg. From what I've read here, I should start with a new tank and get a bung welded in for a fitting for the return  line. There seems to be a few different tanks available. Looking  for info on which tanks are good and which ones to stay away from? This is street driven car only. Also need info on fuel log and reg. how to make and set up right. I have 3/8 line from tank to a mellings pump. Fuel  filter should be between pump and fuel log,is that correct? And reg. should be after fuel log and then return line? What kind  of fuel line should I use from pump to fuel log and after log? And where do I to put a fuel pressure guage? I've never done this before. Thanks!

Hello. I posted earlier about the carb troubles i am having on my 482-#660 on 482.I have looked at carls ford parts site and it shows  2 sets-bj-bk-600 cfm and bc-bd-715 cfm.since this car will only see street driving, im thinking the 2-600 should be what i should be thinking to put on my motor. is there something different design wise on the bj-bk to fit on tunnel wedge in my 66 fairlane? I live in canada,so i want to know if i can just go buy 2 600 holleys from a parts store up here. is there something different from reg. store bought 600 vac. sec. and the bj-bks from carls ford parts?I will also run a fuel return line as suggested on my earlier post.I want my car to start up everytime no troubles.also any help on running a fuel return line.can i put another fitting in my stock gas tank to accept the return line or do i have to buy a fuel cell to make this work.? and any pics. and info on new fuel-log and regulator with return line?Thanks for all your help.

I have a 66 fairlane with a keith craft built 482. when we talked about the engine build he said the 2-660s on top of a dove tunnel wedge would be a good package.this was back a in 2006.took a few years to finish car build. i only drove the car a couple times about 7 years ago.not happy with carbs. in 2013 i took the car to a chassis dyno place and they dialed the carbs in.i run 94 octane fuel.since then i only start it up and run it up temp. and move the car back and forth in my driveway.since i dont start the car very often so what i do is dont touch the gas and turn motor over for about 10 sec.,turn key off,give it 2 pumps and it starts right up,runs great.i back it out  of garage and warm it up.like i say it runs great.after i run it for about 15 mins. i shut if off.no problems.the problem is after i iet it cool down and try to start it back up.it does not want to start back up. i tried not touching the gas pedal and then trying 2 pumps of gas pedal.it just does not start. i am no carb expert. last time i ended up putting gas pedal to floor and it started back up with a quick puff of smoke thru air cleaner. i know i am not to do this because is back fire thru carbs . my mech. friend told me never to do that .when i can get it to start back up it runs great again.i am thinking of changing carbs to make it more reliable. i want to drive my car in summer and not worry if i shut it off can i get it to start again.money is tight now.so is there a trick to starting this motor back up so i can keep these carbs or do i save up and buy 2 different carbs?